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  #16  
Old 12-20-2014, 12:52 PM
footlooseman footlooseman is offline
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4_ZENITH Schematic Path 100uF small.jpg
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  #17  
Old 12-20-2014, 03:41 PM
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I've said it before, and I'll say it again: I never take the sam's diagram's version of how a set ought to be wired over the actual wiring in the set!...Unless I see evidence that that a hack repairman has been in the section I'm working on or the the section where I see a difference does not work properly after all caps have been replaced and all other parts in the circuit have been confirmed to be good.

Sam's has had SO MANY typos/errors over the years (not to mention they often missed documenting production changes)that I consider taking their folders as the bible on any given set to be almost the same as asking to be instructed to sabotage your own set!
I've screwed up good circuits in sets, and caused myself many headaches by blindly assuming that the sam's was infalible.
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  #18  
Old 12-20-2014, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by footlooseman View Post
I have this odd resistor that is a 68K OHMS but measures 80+K that is connect to the C2C 100uF electrolytic capacitor and a 250V Terminal lug where a bunch of 250V items connect. I can’t seem to locate it at all on my part list or schematic. Should it be removed?

Attachment 185101

Part list and schematic files:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nhbwr7587...JktocOwJa?dl=0
It looks factory so leave it in. Its just out of tolerance so you
may want to change it. It cant be a 680 ohm as the Sams says.
If it were the 250V would be go to ground through the
680 ohm & R67 a 1K. That would make lots of smoke
Also C2 is probably rated at 50V, KABOOM
BTW if C2 opens the bottom of the pix will pull up, common.

Bottom line is Sams has at least 2 errors. But I will not
beat up on them. Imagine the hobby or the former industry
without them. And factory manuals are not without sin either.
That may make a good new thread someday
Good luck with the Zenith.

73 Zeno
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  #19  
Old 12-20-2014, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I've said it before, and I'll say it again: I never take the sam's diagram's version of how a set ought to be wired over the actual wiring in the set!...Unless I see evidence that that a hack repairman has been in the section I'm working on or the the section where I see a difference does not work properly after all caps have been replaced and all other parts in the circuit have been confirmed to be good.

Sam's has had SO MANY typos/errors over the years (not to mention they often missed documenting production changes)that I consider taking their folders as the bible on any given set to be almost the same as asking to be instructed to sabotage your own set!
I've screwed up good circuits in sets, and caused myself many headaches by blindly assuming that the sam's was infalible.
Many "errors" in Sams aren't errors, but Production Changes that weren't passed to them, or the tech not doing the research to see if Sams printed a PCB.

Sams are a snapshot of two TVs in the total production - and not wholly representative of the entire production of that model/chassis. There is a really good article in PF reporter about the troubles that Production Changes bring, and the necessity that manufacturers report them to Sams, thus giving the whole picture. RCA, Westinghouse, Magnavox, GE and Philco were lauded in the article for providing the changes. Zenith, Sylvania, Admiral and Sears weren't so generous, which is why all of the Sams for those sets are to be suspect should the circuitry differ.

Note that the Sams website DOES NOT report Production Change Bulletins like the printed indexes did. That is why the paper indexes are so valuable, and much needed, especially for the older sets.

The PCBs are in the index as parenthesis-items, and are noted as such:

CTC38 1000-1 (PCB 1231-9)

If you have a later chassis, that PCB could save your head from spinning. I got bit back in the early 80's when working on an old Teledyne/Packard Bell Solid state set. Sams didn't show any changes, yet the vertical had changed....dramatically, with the addition of a few diodes and resistors in the blanking and yoke return. One call to Teledyne, and I got what was needed - a change, issued some 9 months after the date of the Sams. Apparently Teledyne had three production runs of the same chassis, and never reported it to Sams. Easy way to make some money for themselves, selling updated manuals. Same for Zenith - anyone familiar with their CM manuals and the updates, where you replace an entire manual with another. It was tempting to "save" the outdated manual, and keep it for further use, despite it having errors and omissions. RCA was the same - the CTC16 data I have is the "FIFTH printing", and I also have the 2nd and 4th, which are both very different parts-wise.

So I guess I can say while Sams does have errors, not all omissions or changes are errors on Sams' part.
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  #20  
Old 12-21-2014, 12:46 AM
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The errors I was referring to are TRUE ERRORS such as the schematic and parts list in one folder showing a factor of 10 difference on a capacitor value, and another where the tuning cans for different remote functions were interchanged on the chassis layout.

I can tell the difference between a production change and an error just fine. An error is the above, similar things and sometimes a part having the wrong value listed (although that can fall under production change some of the time).
A production change is when the schematic has a different number and or configuration of parts than the set and possibly value changes of parts have been made.

I'm a Zenith man so I don't work on much PCB based stuff...The only pure RCA product I've worked on is a CTC-4, unless you count CTC-15 clones.
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  #21  
Old 12-21-2014, 01:29 PM
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I think we are saying the same thing - errors exist in SAMs. As for PCBs, some PCBs REMOVE parts, leading to the conclusion the SAMs is wrong. I helped a fellow VKer with his RCA, which had a PCB that removed several parts-didn't change them, just removed them:http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...97&postcount=8


My point is merely that with SAMs, you really can't tell. If the schematic or parts lists differ, you can't rule out a PCB if you don't have that PCB. SAMs website won't help, as they don't mention them, only the paper indexes do.

Awhile back I was working a Zenith 19EC45 set. SAMs doesn't show changes to the power supply, the Zenith data does, and the TEKFAX is different that Sams and the Zenith data. The PCB listed by SAMs doesn't affect the power supply circuitry that is different. Conclusion is that SAMs didn't get the PCB from Zenith, as Zenith data clearly lists the correct info.

So while SAMs does have errors, not all differences or omissions are errors on SAMs' part.
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  #22  
Old 12-22-2014, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by footlooseman View Post
I have this odd resistor that is a 68K OHMS but measures 80+K that is connect to the C2C 100uF electrolytic capacitor and a 250V Terminal lug where a bunch of 250V items connect. I can’t seem to locate it at all on my part list or schematic. Should it be removed?

Attachment 185101

Part list and schematic files:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nhbwr7587...JktocOwJa?dl=0
Zenith data seems to agree with Sams on this - the 68K is nowhere to be found, schematically.
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Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:38 PM.
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  #23  
Old 12-22-2014, 01:58 PM
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Before you remove the part;

Does the part look age appropriate with the other parts already in the set....?

Do the solder joints look undisturbed...? Was it original looking in its installation...?

If it perhaps looks newer, or if the solder joints look recently disturbed.... Then is there
a possible nearby location where this part may go....? As in, did someone accidentally
put this part back in the wrong spot making a previous repair....?

If it's connected off the cathode of the vert output, 100uf cap, (it's the only 100uf
cap I see in the schematic clip posted above) Then, the set had a minor
linearity issue, or a sync issue and someone fudged the circuit.... I can't
see it making a really big difference given the values of the other resistors
to ground in that area...

Remember ground and voltage sources are both looked at as a sink as far as
signal goes..... If it's a voltage source than what, the screen on the sync tube
must have been floating too low.....

Fix the set, then run it without it, and then put it back and see what it does....
At that value it ain't gunna make that big a difference...

See what happens.... The guy that put it in was either a schmuck, or a genius!


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Last edited by Username1; 12-22-2014 at 02:30 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-22-2014, 11:44 PM
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I saw your request over on ARF-the Zenith schematic is in both the 1954 Beitmans Tv-7 and Radio Electronics Magazine:

http://www.americanradiohistory.com/...-Page-0084.pdf

http://www.americanradiohistory.com/...-Page-0085.pdf

Hope this helps.
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  #25  
Old 01-12-2015, 10:36 PM
footlooseman footlooseman is offline
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After doing a power on after replacing all caps and some resistors I was able to get a picture.

I had some issues with horizontal and vertical hold so I went back and replaced more resistors that tested ok when I check the set originally.

It still has horizontal hold issue. I uploaded a youtube video. Is there anything I should look into? http://youtu.be/RoxY6O8WNYk
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  #26  
Old 01-13-2015, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
The crumbling cap is called the 2nd anode high voltage cap.
You can possibly get one from a trashed newer set. The newer ones were made from a better rubber on a vinyl product.
Don't be surprised if the CRT is weak in the S-C. EIA 836 is National Video and many didn't fare too well, through the years.

You're right, S.C made the phones better than the Tvs..
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  #27  
Old 01-13-2015, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by footlooseman View Post
After doing a power on after replacing all caps and some resistors I was able to get a picture.

I had some issues with horizontal and vertical hold so I went back and replaced more resistors that tested ok when I check the set originally.

It still has horizontal hold issue. I uploaded a youtube video. Is there anything I should look into? http://youtu.be/RoxY6O8WNYk
Look to the horz phase area. Usually 2 diodes in series & all the
parts between the sync sep & horz osc tubes.

73 Zeno
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  #28  
Old 01-15-2015, 11:41 PM
footlooseman footlooseman is offline
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After doing some more work on the set I found some micamold/mica caps and I am wondering if they are paper and if they could be causing the issue. A troubleshooting book suggested the picture vibration might also be caused by IF tubes.

What do you guys think?
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  #29  
Old 01-16-2015, 01:32 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Look to the horz phase area. Usually 2 diodes in series & all the
parts between the sync sep & horz osc tubes.
Those dual diodes are most always common-cathode rather than series. Be sure to determine which it is. (There is a common-anode type but I've never seen one in a TV set.)

To footlooseman: An IF tube will not cause weak H sync like shown in the vid.

Last edited by old_coot88; 01-16-2015 at 01:35 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-21-2015, 02:28 PM
footlooseman footlooseman is offline
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I showed my co-worker the video with the horizontal. He used to be a TV repair person back in the 80s and 90s and thought the horizontal issue could be caused by the flyback transformer. There were some cracks and if I recall correctly missing insulation (I have to take photos tonight). Do you think I should look into buying a replacement?
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