Zenith L1820R & Setchell-Carlson 401B

[footlooseman]

I bought two TVs of craigslist and I want to restore two units. The first is a Zenith model L1820R with Chassis 19L26 that was made in November 12, 1953. Second, is a Setchell-Carlson with Chassis 401B and I am wondering what year it was made. On the Setchell-Carlson there is a very faded writing on the back cover that I think is 19TL65.

The safe glass on the Zenith seems loose, is there anything special that I need to do before I pull the Chassis? What is a Super "K" Chassis?
The suction cup for high voltage on the S.C. looks like it would crumble if I remove it. Where can I get a replacement? What is the exact name/term for it?

Both TVs were kept in a smoker’s environment. I am currently using water and isopropyl alcohol to clean up the units. Is there any other ways to freshen up the smell a bit?

Sorry for the bad pictures. I just took some quick photos with my cellphone.

[footlooseman]

More Photos...

[radiotvnut]

Those are both nice TV's. I'd put the SC in the mid-'60's time period.

[Electronic M]

Nice finds.
On that Zenith beware a typo in the sam's that lists a vertical stage cap as different values on the schematic and parts list.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by footlooseman

More Photos...

The crumbling cap is called the 2nd anode high voltage cap.
You can possibly get one from a trashed newer set. The newer ones were made from a better rubber on a vinyl product.
Don't be surprised if the CRT is weak in the S-C. EIA 836 is National Video and many didn't fare too well, through the years.

[zeno]

Best anode caps were from mid 70's Zenith color sets.
Large cap, screw on connection 15-276 was PN.
Easily handles 35 KV

Newer Zenith safety screens came off from front. Plastic trim came off
with a light pry but BE CAREFUL just in case. The glass
was held by a few 1/4 inch screws under the trim.

Nice pair of set, probably the best out there at the time.

73 Zeno

[Electronic M]

Zeno: Zenith did not use pry-off plastic bezels in the 50's. I have the 21" screen version of that set, and I can tell you that there are screws holding the glass and mask on mine. Prying will only cause damage.

[zeno]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Zeno: Zenith did not use pry-off plastic bezels in the 50's. I have the 21" screen version of that set, and I can tell you that there are screws holding the glass and mask on mine. Prying will only cause damage.

Thats why I said be careful. I worked sets from abt 1960 on, darn few before that. The ones I did the plastic did pop off but if you got one
then you know. I assume the jug is mounted on the chassis as in
newer over 19" sets like 14N22 & requires a chassis pull to clean
the screen ??

73 Zeno

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by zeno

Thats why I said be careful. I worked sets from abt 1960 on, darn few before that. The ones I did the plastic did pop off but if you got one
then you know. I assume the jug is mounted on the chassis as in
newer over 19" sets like 14N22 & requires a chassis pull to clean
the screen ??

73 Zeno

I think the newer model Zenith's, you're referring to, use a tension band type of CRT, that didn't require a safety glass. The "N" models are 1966 model year.

[zeno]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I think the newer model Zenith's, you're referring to, use a tension band type of CRT, that didn't require a safety glass. The "N" models are 1966 model year.

I was remembering the 19" sets abt 60-65. IIRC older consoles
had a large flat screen that came off easy. Yes I am sure by N
line they were "built in" screens.

73 Zeno

[wa2ise]

Most any BPC CRT TV set or computer monitor will have a usable 2nd anode high voltage cap. If the high voltage wire is long enough (cut if off at the BPC flyback), you could use it along with the newer cap when you replace the old one.

You might be able to salvage some of the capacitors off the BPC board to use when you replace the old set's wax paper caps.

[Olorin67]

Keep your eyes out for sets on the curb, i see them all the time, usually someone has already smashed open the back of the set to swipe the copper defection coils. just dont get zapped!

[footlooseman]

Sorry or the long delays. I took a replacement high voltage cap out of a computer monitor that my Grandma was going to throw away. I did get the Setchell-Carlson working. The CRT seems to be ok and not too weak.
WP_20140914_012.jpg
I love the light up channel knobs!
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There were some weird fixes. One is they used a can capacitor and wired the three together for about 70uf when part list called for 100uf, so it was replaced with a 100uf 50v capacitor and replaced all old capacitors along with a few old bumble bee.
WP_20140910_027.jpg
Second, the CRT tube is missing a plastic base/connector cover.
WP_20140909_007.jpg

[footlooseman]

I am now working on cleaning and restoring the Zenith. I found after cleaning all the dirt and years of smoke there is little bits of gold thread in the fabric of the speaker cover. Now it looks a little like the Hollywood Bowl.
WP_20140923_012.jpg
It seems that my Yoke cover is rotting away into little bits all over. What are you guys using for replacements?
WP_20140923_010.jpgThe plug looks very different for the high voltage. It’s not really a plug. What would you call it? It looks like there was electric arc in one spot, should I use corona dope to cover that area?
WP_20140925_032.jpg
WP_20140926_005.jpg

[footlooseman]

I have this odd resistor that is a 68K OHMS but measures 80+K that is connect to the C2C 100uF electrolytic capacitor and a 250V Terminal lug where a bunch of 250V items connect. I can’t seem to locate it at all on my part list or schematic. Should it be removed?

5_ZENITH error-small.jpg

Part list and schematic files:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nhbwr7587...JktocOwJa?dl=0