Need help identifing and fixing Majestic 17" tv - Videokarma.org TV - Video

Kawooa · #1 08-03-2015, 10:57 AM

I have recently bought a really old and cool Majestic tv. It's a 17" tube and heavy. The only thing I can find so far for a model is model 70 (leatherette). And nothing on Google comes up for that. I can only find the 170a which looks similar but not it. I love the looks of this tv. I want to repair it but need help. When I found it in a antique store it was $35. Too hard to not buy. The seller did try to power it on and had a note on the tv. The note was made a loud buzzing and small flicking light on screen. I figured it would be easy to fix. Arching flyback and General resistor and cap replacement. The flyback is great looking. But the outlet on the back of the tv is shorted out. Both plugs have about 1.5-2ohm resistance(the phono motor outlet. Not the plug coming into the set. That's cracked but not shorted yet). There is a blown out what looks like a mov on the outlet(phono motor plug). I don't have a picture of it because I don't want to flip it right now. If I can't fix it then it makes a great piece for looks. Or maybe gut it and try to add like a tv inside the cabinet to keep looks but upgrade it. Have the DVD come out where the brass door for the front controls are. I thought that would be cool. Saw it on tv(my hero)

Kawooa · #2 08-03-2015, 10:59 AM

Gotta love only being able to upload one image at a time.

Kawooa · #3 08-03-2015, 11:01 AM

Here's the inside.

Kawooa · #4 08-03-2015, 11:05 AM

Here the back showing the outlet I was talking out. Both sides are shorted. I think it has something to do when the mov looking part blow and maybe something else. I will get a picture of that sometime in the next few days.

tom.j.fla · #5 08-03-2015, 11:53 AM

Hi, Your MAJESTIC(GAROD) 70 is series 106 from 1952 could not find a sams on it but you will find it in BEITMANS TV-6 pages 85 to 88 (84 to 87 pdf). Hope this helps. All the best, Tom.j.Fla

jr_tech · #6 08-03-2015, 12:04 PM

My vintage PF index (1984) says that it is in #153-8.

jr

ETF has a copy here: http://earlytelevision.org/tv_schematic_diagrams_m.html

***Eric H*** · #7 08-03-2015, 12:24 PM

It looks like it's missing the Damper tube (empty socket on right rear)

This set will probably just need the usual recap and cleanup.
It's the same chassis as my 20" Wilcox-Gay (made by Majestic)

The Color socket on the rear was for an adapter to be used with a format that never came to be, it can be ignored.

Electronic M · #8 08-03-2015, 01:27 PM

I've got a console with the same chassis. You will need to replace all the paper caps (including the mica-mold-papers that disguise themselves as the high reliability mica caps), and the electrolytic caps.

If the CRT lit up that confirms that the parts that are most difficult to find and expensive are still usable.
Here is a more direct link to the schematic. http://earlytelevision.org/pdf/Majes...sams-153-8.pdf I could probably make a caps to replace list off of it if you need.

Kawooa · #9 08-03-2015, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric H

It looks like it's missing the Damper tube (empty socket on right rear)

This set will probably just need the usual recap and cleanup.
It's the same chassis as my 20" Wilcox-Gay (made by Majestic)

The Color socket on the rear was for an adapter to be used with a format that never came to be, it can be ignored.

There are two tubes missing. I pulled the tubes which was there but they are the wrong ones. The horizontal high voltage rectifier before the high voltage in the cage is a 6w4. The tube that was there was like a 6ax4? The other is one of the two under the crt. I have found them online but have yet to order. I have only messed with this set for one day. I fixed a missing screw on the front panel. That thing is heavy! I was able to drill and then tap into the chassis where the original was. I then found a nice long screw to hold the panel on. That works great.

jr_tech · #10 08-03-2015, 02:04 PM

A 6AX4 is listed as a substitute for a 6W4, so it is likely a valid swap ... what were the other "wrong" tubes?

jr

Kawooa · #11 08-03-2015, 02:22 PM

Well I just checked. I was wrongs bout the tube being high voltage rectifier. Whatever though. Just have a hard time remembering things from late nights. But it is a 6ax4 in place of the proper 6w4. The other wrong tube is a 6cb6 in place of the proper 6ag5. I need to order prpoper tubes unless these tubes are interchangeable. I got a picture of the one blown part. It looks like a mov and cap in one. Guess it must be the cap. It goes from power line to ground.

So what's up with the one color input? Isn't this black and white? Was it a connection which never come or never used before better technology came out? And could it in any way be used as a video input. Cause that would be cool.

Thanks for all the help so far. Need to work on ordering parts..... after I finish all my other projects that sit in pieces. But I'll still order parts. Just can't start working for awhile. I need to finish his my great grandmas zenith, a garod 5a3, eico 1020 power supply(may scrap for awhile), Meissner phonograph recorder and more.

jr_tech · #12 08-03-2015, 02:39 PM

A 6CB6 is listed as a valid substitute for a 6AG5 with a note "may not work in all circuits". I suspect that it will work ok in most (with possibly some touch-up of alignment), however. Likely your two "wrong" tubes were working fine.

jr

zeno · #13 08-03-2015, 03:21 PM

I would go back to the origional 6AG5 The 6W4 sub is probably
OK. Almost always better to stick with origional #'s.

The burned part is probably a disc cap across a high ohm resistor.
I dont think MOV's were around til the 70's.

Symptoms sound like a wide open electrolytic in the power supply.
After the burned part I would change them & see if the set
works somewhat. Its BEST to have it going so when you recap
you can check your work after every few caps.

73 Zeno

Kawooa · #14 08-03-2015, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeno

I would go back to the origional 6AG5 The 6W4 sub is probably
OK. Almost always better to stick with origional #'s.

The burned part is probably a disc cap across a high ohm resistor.
I dont think MOV's were around til the 70's.

Symptoms sound like a wide open electrolytic in the power supply.
After the burned part I would change them & see if the set
works somewhat. Its BEST to have it going so when you recap
you can check your work after every few caps.

73 Zeno

You talking about the shorted outlet issue? I need to order some parts and buy myself a variac to test with. I want to test it to see the symptoms so I can explain them and get help. I enjoy electronics and only started working on them this last year. I don't know much about electricity beside the basics. I will check out the parts and order. How rare is this set? And how much is it worth? I don't plan to sell just really like to know what I have. Thanks for all the help so far.

stromberg67 · #15 08-03-2015, 04:20 PM

Just looked up the SAMS on the Early Television Org. Website. It's available for download as a PDF. Nice. simple power supply, and good, straightforward circuits, unlike that accursed Emerson I'm now fighting with (model 698-B, with a partially "upside-down" power supply. You will have a much easier time with that nice Majestic!

Kevin