Dead Philips Magnavox 25"

[YamahaFreak]

The latest trash find, hopefully repairable. This one won't stay on. When the power button is pressed, the relay clicks on and then back off in less than one second. Everything inside looks clean and intact. There may be a tiny hint of HV between relay clicks, but it's hard to tell. The set's model number is TR2502 C101, chassis number 25B800-7562. It's a mono set, with one coax (F) connector and no RCA A/V inputs. Not really worth it for me to keep, but I might be able to make a quick 20 bucks if it works, to help me pay off the Seth Thomas Westminster chime mantle clock I have on layaway.

[radiotvnut]

The main things that went wrong with those sets were shorted HOT's, shorted vertical output IC's (and caps/diodes/resistors associated with it), and a little blue disc cap that goes from the HOT collector to ground. All three of these parts can cause what you describe. When the cap fails, it will usually arc and burn.

[YamahaFreak]

I didn't see any burned components in my precursory check. There is a blue cap-like device near the heatsink on the far right side of the board, but I didn't think it was a cap (more like a sealed coil) and it looks intact...I'm trying to think of what would cause the specific symptom I'm getting. (Power for half a second, then off again)

[malikinam]

Saw that a while ago, excellent video, gotta love those early plumbicon colour tones . DDQ-10 located in Toowoomba, QLD, Australia are one of few Aussie stations to purchase Japanese Ikegami TK-301A colour cameras for their studios on the switchover to colour in 1974.

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by malikinam

Saw that a while ago, excellent video, gotta love those early plumbicon colour tones . DDQ-10 located in Toowoomba, QLD, Australia are one of few Aussie stations to purchase Japanese Ikegami TK-301A colour cameras for their studios on the switchover to colour in 1974.

Is this post in the right thread?

[DavGoodlin]

Originally Posted by YamahaFreak

..I'm trying to think of what would cause the specific symptom I'm getting. (Power for half a second, then off again)

I repaired by brother's 1990 Philips-Philco by replacing the B+ regulator IC, it looks similar to the Horizontal Output transistor, but on the heatsink on rear chassis apron. It measured shorted on my fluke.

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

I repaired by brother's 1990 Philips-Philco by replacing the B+ regulator IC, it looks similar to the Horizontal Output transistor, but on the heatsink on rear chassis apron. It measured shorted on my fluke.

Thanks, I'll check that out.