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#1
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1968 "TLC" SS color set?
I am the new owner of this set and know NOTHING about it. It was in a shed that was falling down in the weather for 15-20 years! All the stickers outside have fallen off. Only steel data plates remain outside however some of the stickers inside are still intact. The chassis, cabinet, everything is rusted. Just for the hell of it and I know it was'nt smart but we plugged it in. On 2 surge protectors and a small breaker. The sum B$#@! fired right up with a BEAUTIFUL picture! But that was a one time occurance. Turned it on later and it had no color. Next time, Had color but VERY dark picture. I'm in the process of breaking it down for a full cleaning. The CRT is toshiba and alot of sticker labeled "Made in Japan" with numbers on them. But most have fallen off and were sitting on the chassis. It has both screw on terminals for UHF and VHF and a CATV coax connector. When I can figure out how to get the pictures off my camera onto the HDD, I'll post them. My current system does not have an xD card reader. If any of ya'll know anything about this i'd appreciate it.
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#2
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Amazing how much abuse a TV will take, and still work! I've had some really nasty stuff come to life. I'm gonna guess your set was badged either a Toshiba or a Sears. The Japanese color sets from that era are well worth saving. I keep kicking myself for walking away from a Sharp from that time period.
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Bryan |
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#3
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Got it tore down. Now I need quite abit of naval jelly after tons of sanding. I'm wondering what or how would be a good method of cleaning all the PC-boards and etc? Dose them in contact cleaner? The set has no badging really. Just them 3 letters. Strange. No other names in it except toshiba. If anyone has a safe method to clean all the componets please post it. I'm looking for any ideas.
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#4
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I've been trying to resist, but I have to say those three letters are ironic.
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#5
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Lol, are'nt they? I really wish I had a CRT tester......I hope the tube has'nt gone bad.
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| Audiokarma |
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#6
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If you were in the midwest I'd let you borrow my tester. I'll bet there is someone in Tx that will let you borrow theirs.
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#7
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For really dirty stuff like that, I do the following
1. vacuum inside and out with the brush attachment... do it again... then loosen dust, dirt, cobwebs with an old toothbrush and vacuum at the same time... idea is getting off as much as possible which is going to smear when it gets wet. 2. citrus based cleaner from spray bottle, and scrub with old toothbrush... wipe up residue with paper towel and q-tips For most stuff, step 1 gets me as far as I need to go. OH and I'm sure everyone knows this... but don't clean tubes with water... just wipe them as well as you can with a slightly damp cloth. The labels on most tubes wash off very very easily. |
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#8
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What I've done and this is pretty exculsive already without going farther than what I already have.
Broke the cabinet down without poping rivets, sanded and removed as much rust as possible, re-painted while keeping that old look. Flat black enamel works great btw. Next, took chassis apart also and removed all rust from it. Without going overbored and doing what I can. Then took masking and all plastics through a citus all purpose grease eating cleaner. Given this is a off brand and SS state set, I'm not going crazy with it but am putting some serious work into it. Should come out pretty nice when I'm done. Where is Bandersen (sp?) to help me with some of the cleaning such as the knobs have something green that will not come off or on the faceplate there is something that also wont come off. When I can get the pics up you all will see. Now I'm waiting on getting some contact cleaner for the tuner assembly. Wondering how to clean all the old grease out of the gears and put fresh in.... |
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#9
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Think I found my picture problem... I have a HV leak right out of the transformer. This set is EXTREAMLY service friendly. Chassis slides right out, Everything is plug in. I had the whole set broke down in 3 hours if that. I think If I can get some claulking that will seal the HV for now until a replacement wire is available. Still trying to get pictures up. Still have some small things like grounding everything to the cabinet and re-soldering the VHF twin-leads to the screw terminals and fixing the HV problem.
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#10
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Quote:
Save to photobucket or other HTTP storage site, then use an IMG link to paste picture, as I did below.
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| Audiokarma |
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#11
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Lol, I was reffering to knowing anything about the set. I don't have the camera cable and also don't have a card reader. Although from that picture, It looks as if the one on the far left is the one I need. Thanks for trying to help though.
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#12
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Camera shops, Futureshop, etc. will have the cable. And a USB card reader is really cheap also. We want to see the pictures.. :-)
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#13
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Powered it up, Picture is still dark, everything is fuzzy, all the colors are either way to strong or weak or even wrong. When I look at it through the camera it looks somewhat decent. CRT failure afterall maybe? Anyone in Houston have a rejuvenater? (lol). When I turn the brightness even half way down the tube is totaly dark with the contrast wide open.
I just don't get it when it was first turned on in 20 years it had a great picture... |
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#14
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It sounds like you're losing your luma signal, does turning the color up or down affect the brightness of the picture? I'd check the video circuit closely If I were you.
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My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
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#15
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If i turn the color control all the way down, it goes into b/w with very little if any noticeable color and no change in brightness. I wish I knew who built or designed the set to find a schematic for the video circuit.
Last edited by Cruiseomatic; 08-15-2011 at 09:56 AM. |
| Audiokarma |
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