|
|
|
#1
05-16-2011, 11:05 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Blonde Port Started
Finished up the teletone and now off to the Blonde port hole set. Just a few pics of the disassembly of the unit and everything looks fine except the black waxy insulating material on the flyback is cracked on some of the pieces have fallen off. The unit rings out ok and wondering what I can use to either hold the remaining stuff on or replace it, any suggestions.
__________________
You are where you want to be 
|
|
#2
05-17-2011, 05:45 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
People here tend to coat the flybacks in RTV silicone, but any other material with a high resistivity/breakdown voltage should do the job.
You're probably best removing the loose stuff before you put anything new on it, to minimize the air space around it - and then really work the stuff on so it's there's as little air as possible around the coils. That should prevent any arcing from happening as a result of the cracked outer tire.
|
|
#3
05-17-2011, 09:02 AM
|
||||
|
||||
It has been found that some of the silicones, and, other types tend to be corosive, and, reccommend against them.
Bill Cahill
__________________
"Tubes are those little glass things that light up orange unless there is a short.. Then they light up all pretty colors..." Please join my forum. http://www.tuberadioforum.com/
|
|
#5
05-17-2011, 09:15 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
get the sensor safe rtv at the auto parts store. acid free.
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#6
05-17-2011, 11:02 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
It looks like most of that wax will flick right off if you warm it with a heat gun. That's what I did recently when recoating a Philco flyback. I had meant to melt it off like liquid, but the stuff just started falling off in big pieces when it got warm.
This thread has some photos and a couple of recommendations for recoating material. I used sensor safe RTV. Eric H recommended some space age stuff from Aervoe. Phil Nelson
|
|
#7
05-18-2011, 07:33 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yours looks like my 24H20/24H21 that still works with only tubes and a couple of papers that were replaced in the 1970's. Does yours use a second audio/power chassis?
Tom C.
|
|
#8
05-18-2011, 08:00 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Tom,
It has the second chassis for the power audio. Portholes are nice sets and hoping to get her running in a couple of months as I have a mahogany unit coming at the end of the month. Brandt
__________________
You are where you want to be
|
|
#9
05-29-2011, 01:15 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Well, re-coated the flyback with the sensor safe material. Looks like more of a bad cupcake frosting job but there are no voids on the inside. Currently recapping the chassis and going to replace the 6 sand power resistors as i have never had good luck with them working after such a long down time. The other mahogany porthole showed up yesterday and will post up some picks later on.
__________________
You are where you want to be
|
|
#11
05-30-2011, 11:28 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Here's the link
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=250578
__________________
You are where you want to be
|
|
#12
05-30-2011, 11:53 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#14
05-31-2011, 08:11 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
This is a dumb question, but how did you get the CRT off? When working on my 12" porthole, I just lay the chassis on its size and clamp it to the bench (with the CRT attached). My 16" though, I am afraid that it might be too heavy or whatever. I haven't worked on that one yet. Can you take the CRT off without screwing up anything alignment-wise?
|
|
#15
05-31-2011, 08:27 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well I'll see if I screwed up some alignment but after marking the tube in the yoke, I removed the high voltage springs, then the front support and insulator ring and supported the bottom of the tube with some foam. The tube (16gp4 metal tube) in my unit was very light compared to say a 12lp4 unit and it slid out ok but still was white knuckling it cause of the very long neck.
__________________
You are where you want to be
|
| Audiokarma |
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
