Need help identifing and fixing Majestic 17" tv

[Kawooa]

Got new tested tubes to replace the replacements. The fit in just right. Now I have two boxes for them which which I doubt I'll ever use. Now to think. What do I need to do next? Beside order a lot of parts. I want a nice proper paper schematic for the TV set. One which doesn't cut off the sides like the digital sent earlier does.

[Kawooa]

I have now gotten my variac, isolated transformer and crt tester 400. Now to finish my other projects then hello Majestic! Well after I get the crt tester working. It's just got a lot of electrolyic capacitors in it. And those baby's are pricey!

[Kawooa]

So I am kinda thinking about restuffing all the capacitors on this set. Even if it a lot of work and not worth much I want to try it. I was going to try melting down some of the old wax capacitors(heat gun) to see how much old wax can be reused and how easy it is to remove the guts. May not be worth it but I want to try so I can do it to something more valuable one day. Well, not like I'm going to sell any of them.

[Kawooa]

Alright. I finished my meissner project. So now I'm letting myself begin this one. I was going through the schematic to get the parts I need to start this. After seeing how much a pain it is on that I decided to remove the chassis. I cleaned it up as best as I could with rubbing alcohol and paper towels. And my toothbrush. No Im not brushing with it.

Well my flyback is pretty nice! No burns, arcs, or melted anything. The only thing wrong in the high voltage cage is that a fuse broke. Someone repaired it before with "jumpers" (look like (S)'s) to connect a new in parallel of the broken. The fuse is pigtail? and solders in. I was prepared and bought a 5 pack new a while ago. Well nothing looks burned, broken and otherwise massively wrong beside that fuse, burned out ceramic capacitor(phono motor outlet to chassis) and of course, wax capacitors. I won't restuff after all. I did melt down all my old ones I removed before. Was super bored that day.

I'll in the next couple days get to taking down a parts list and order parts for everything that I need. Might as well as kill 4 birds one stone right? Well it shouldn't be hard to work on. The chassis pulled out really easy. I thought I'd have to remove the crt then the chassis. Nope. The chassis and crt come out as one. And I was nervous removing the crt from the chassis. Never worked on a crt TV before. Well I never messed with something this size(9" Mac and 5" portable before. Only removed Marc's monitor). And of course thinking about how it has no implosion protection. Could just be me overreacting, you know those like whole like 3 tube implosions on workers a year means these things explode at even the slightest look at them.

So if the flyback isn't arcing that's good. But now what I wonder is why the seller said there was flickers of light and buzzing? What could it be? I'm thinking speaker buzzing(bad filter(s)) and maybe the horizontal sync is off? That sure seems to make sense. Fast rolling picture and all could look like a bad flyback on paper, but not person. Eh, whatever. This just means it should be an easy repair! And now I've jinxed myself. Well then, hopefully I didn't screw myself there. And there I go again.

Feel free to tell me what to do at anytime. I should be able to chime back with my babbling nonsense within a few hours. And try suggestions within the day. Thanks, once again.

[Kawooa]

Here's my perfectly not burned and happy looking flyback! Looks almost brand new after a quick and very careful cleaning so as to not damage the thin wires. Why's weird is my high voltage anode wire looks like it was white. Was. But now it's stained with the lives of millions of dust particles from decades past.
(That's the wire is the bottom right)

Well it doesn't look damaged. If it was I'd order at least 15-20kv rated wire. If the anodes voltage is 10.35kv normally this allows me much safety headroom for if it was high. It don't have any equipment to test that high. Most I got is a vintage Laffeyette TE-12 multimeter at 6kv. But I wouldn't even feel safe at that voltage. Learned from my grandfather, well not really but known as that for most of my life. That's why they went from 6kv to 1kv highest setting on multimeters. The meter could handle it but not the leads. Makes sense. And there I'm going with the babbling again.