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  #16  
Old 03-22-2011, 04:53 PM
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charokeeroad charokeeroad is offline
John Q
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern California, IE
Posts: 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Were you trying to link to Heywood Wakefield stain ?

I thought about it too, but it looks to me like it obscures the grain too much. Not really the same as the original limed oak finish.

What would you do about the decals if you refinish it ?

I think the limed oak look comes from the red oak base. So any piece of vener that are missing have to be replaced with red oak. I just found a roll of it in my mom garage. It has probably been there for at least 40 years but it's still good. The decals are going to have to be protected. That set up the restoration. the front panel has to be the key to the refinish just like Ralph did. The challenge will be to match the front panel, not easy I know. I think I'll strip the entire cabinet save the front panel, then replace any missing vener. then follow the instruction on the DIY kit trying to match the front panel.

Last edited by charokeeroad; 03-24-2011 at 10:28 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2011, 10:27 PM
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charokeeroad charokeeroad is offline
John Q
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern California, IE
Posts: 644
It's probably going to be one of the most challenging restorations I've ever done not because it would be all that hard to get a good looking set out it with a streight forward refinishing job but because I will be trying to match the front panel. I don't know anyone who sell that Admiral decal and I'm sure I couldn't reproduce it so it has to stay. If it has to stay the the whole front panel has to stay the way it is. If the front panel has to stay the way it is then I think the whole front has to stay the way it is. I think it would be very difficult to just save the front panel with the logo and try to match that with the other front parts. That leaves the sides and the top. What are the chances of matching the front to the sides and top...probably not that good.
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