CTX CVP-5468NI picture increased width then shrank

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by vol.2

Would highly suspect the "across the line" cap(s).

Monitors of this era typically had x and y film caps that tend to self-destruct after some years. They are usually packaged in plastic that was not yet known to become brittle and crack

Can you elaborate on that? I've pulled and tested four film caps near the deflection coil connector and they all test good. I don't see any visually damaged components.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

Can you elaborate on that? I've pulled and tested four film caps near the deflection coil connector and they all test good. I don't see any visually damaged components.

Not around the deflection. They would be close to the AC power input area. They would be "safety caps", such as an x or y class cap intended to operate across the input voltage.

That would be my first thought if it isn't turning on.

You can verify it by checking the voltage from the plug up into the PCB and see where things go wrong. Obviously it's line voltage, so be careful.

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by vol.2

They would be "safety caps", such as an x or y class cap intended to operate across the input voltage.

Ceramics are used for this purpose. I see power going across them.
I've gone through the possible solutions for "DEAD, NO RASTER, etc..." on the Anatek Resolve database, have tested each passive part listed there and they're all good.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

Ceramics are used for this purpose. I see power going across them.
I've gone through the possible solutions for "DEAD, NO RASTER, etc..." on the Anatek Resolve database, have tested each passive part listed there and they're all good.

Not working at all somewhat implies that you have a power issue. You should be able to figure out what's wrong by tracing all of the voltages from their source. If you're lucky, one of them will be straight-up missing and you'll know right away

Are you getting High Voltage? You can figure that out pretty easily by using a frequency analyzer app on your phone. If your HV is okay, you'll see a spike on the app at around 15kHz for sure

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by vol.2

Not working at all somewhat implies that you have a power issue. You should be able to figure out what's wrong by tracing all of the voltages from their source. If you're lucky, one of them will be straight-up missing and you'll know right away

What voltages should I be looking for? How can I find them on the board?

Originally Posted by vol.2

Are you getting High Voltage? You can figure that out pretty easily by using a frequency analyzer app on your phone. If your HV is okay, you'll see a spike on the app at around 15kHz for sure

No.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

What voltages should I be looking for? How can I find them on the board?

No.

Okay. If you have no HV then you know something is up with that part of the circuit then.

You should be able to find the voltages on the schematics. They will show the sources, and those usually have test points associated with them. Sometimes, the PCB will even have the voltages printed on the board next to the test points

Figure out what it needs to run by looking at the schematics, and then go around and see what's missing. If all sources are present, but the high voltage is still out, then you know it's a problem with a component in the path of the flyback, or the deflection coils.