CRT pins crushed during shipping, can this be fixed?

[kf4rca]

Good luck.
I once knew a tech who dropped a Tektronix 492 spectrum analyzer. Everything survived EXCEPT the crt. Something bent in the gun that made the display useless. A new tube was unavailable as Tektronix had gone LCD by this time.
I thought the CE was going to strangle the guy. A $20K piece of equipment was trashed. Glad it wasn't me!
And yeah, your shadow mask may be bent as well.

[Tube TV]

You got lucky. I've had ones that were way less bent that snapped off and the edge of the glass. Funny thing was is the set was in use when it broke. It was a 10ASP4 in a early 70's Admiral portable. The filiments went put and found out the pin for filimet had busted off. It must have been fractured and was just hanging on.

I had no luck soldering to it and getting it to flow and stick. I ended up putting a pin down through the CRT socket and made contact with the broken stub. Seemed to work alright

[kf4rca]

Get back with us and let us know the results.
If its not usable, you might could get a tube from a solid state portacolor that would work.
I know they made 9's and 13's, but not sure about 11's. The new tubes are "ultra-rectangular" and you might have trouble fitting them into the bezel. Also they have a different deflection angle.

FedEx is neither federal or express. They had a shooting at one of their facilities recently:
https://abcnews.go.com/US/alleged-gu...ry?id=77182531
Most of their drivers around here look like druggies to me!

[ARC Tech-109]

I used to dig CRT's out of the dumpster behind the TV shop as a kid and straighten many a pin out with a needle nose. Just take your time and be very patient working from the end down to the glass, don't go for perfection here. I doubt the mask is wrinkled with the small size of this one, I've had 19V tubes dropped and the mask was fine.
Sure miss those PortaColor sets, my first experience came with a serious zap as I didn't know anything about the polarized cords... I was just 10 and dad wasn't impressed with my choice of words!

[LukeSimon]

Originally Posted by kf4rca

Get back with us and let us know the results.
If its not usable, you might could get a tube from a solid state portacolor that would work.
I know they made 9's and 13's, but not sure about 11's. The new tubes are "ultra-rectangular" and you might have trouble fitting them into the bezel. Also they have a different deflection angle.

The Portacolor CRTs are 70-degree, 10-inch, inline gun CRTs. Has anyone successfully swapped in a 90-degree CRT from the solid state Portacolors? In theory, the higher the deflection degree, the more deflection current is needed, and the Portacolor's horizontal deflection tube has a low to medium current rating. So it may struggle to fill the screen.



I used a BK490b CRT Tester to test the CRT. At first it tested bad, so I tested for heater to cathode shorts, which showed there was a short. So I ran the "remove shorts" function, and after a single spark, the CRT tested good. Note that this is a newer BK CRT tester, so it only has 6.3v and 12v heater options. The Portacolor 11SP22 has a 13.8v heater. If it tests good at 12v, then at the full 13.8v the emissions will be even better. I am going to test it again after another 7 days, to see if emissions decline a lot, which would indicate the damage during shipping has caused the vacuum to slowly go away. I have also found that with CRTs that have been kept in storage for multiple decades, they sometimes test bad at first, but if you use the CRT tester at max G2 voltage and minimum K to G1 voltage, you can get the cathodes to reactivate. It takes a minute or two, and it is much more gentle than using the rejuvenation options that drive 50mA through the cathodes.

The only spare Portacolor chassis I have for the 11SP22 is an "HE" chassis, which is made for the high voltage Portacolor CRTs. The 11SP22 is a low voltage CRT. I started a new thread here to discuss modifying a high voltage CRT chassis to work with a low voltage CRT. Comparing schematics, I think the changes are straightforward.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by LukeSimon

The Portacolor CRTs are 70-degree, 10-inch, inline gun CRTs. Has anyone successfully swapped in a 90-degree CRT from the solid state Portacolors? In theory, the higher the deflection degree, the more deflection current is needed, and the Portacolor's horizontal deflection tube has a low to medium current rating. So it may struggle to fill the screen.



I used a BK490b CRT Tester to test the CRT. At first it tested bad, so I tested for heater to cathode shorts, which showed there was a short. So I ran the "remove shorts" function, and after a single spark, the CRT tested good. Note that this is a newer BK CRT tester, so it only has 6.3v and 12v heater options. The Portacolor 11SP22 has a 13.8v heater. If it tests good at 12v, then at the full 13.8v the emissions will be even better. I am going to test it again after another 7 days, to see if emissions decline a lot, which would indicate the damage during shipping has caused the vacuum to slowly go away. I have also found that with CRTs that have been kept in storage for multiple decades, they sometimes test bad at first, but if you use the CRT tester at max G2 voltage and minimum K to G1 voltage, you can get the cathodes to reactivate. It takes a minute or two, and it is much more gentle than using the rejuvenation options that drive 50mA through the cathodes.

The only spare Portacolor chassis I have for the 11SP22 is an "HE" chassis, which is made for the high voltage Portacolor CRTs. The 11SP22 is a low voltage CRT. I started a new thread here to discuss modifying a high voltage CRT chassis to work with a low voltage CRT. Comparing schematics, I think the changes are straightforward.

i have the same tester!

it can NOT test a 21fjp22 even though there are sockets to do so.
found this out the hard way.
it does NOT have enough current to light the heaters.
IF, you use external power for the heaters on 21 color roundie, then you can test with it... kind of dumb BK...

[kf4rca]

The filament on the 13" solid state portacolor measures 5.5 volts AC and is derived from the scan supply.

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

it can NOT test a 21fjp22 even though there are sockets to do so.
found this out the hard way.
it does NOT have enough current to light the heaters.

One question - was that 21FJP known to be under vacuum? The reason being: if it had gone to air, the heaters would be immersed in a heat-conductive fluid (air) and wouldn't be able to light up, thus continuing to pull heavy 'cold' current, which some testers' transformer can't supply. IIRC, Phil Nelson ran into this once upon a time on a 21" roundie. The tester was buzzing in protest, the heaters weren't lighting up, yet the whole gun end of the jug was getting hot from conduction since the jug had gone to air.

[LukeSimon]

Replacement base pin key arrived. The CRT is fully repaired now!

[user181]

Originally Posted by LukeSimon

Replacement base pin key arrived. The CRT is fully repaired now!

That's great news. Good for you!

Have you put it on a tester, or done any rudimentary checks to verify the pins still have continuity?

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by user181

That's great news. Good for you!

Have you put it on a tester, or done any rudimentary checks to verify the pins still have continuity?

This style of socket the pins usually snap off before they loose continuity (I learned that the hard way on a 15NP22). The only things to worry about on these style bases if the pins are straight and not easily wiggled is that the glass hasn't cracked and that emissions are good.

[Josef]

Great news
Just to mention my 50Cents:
I'd heat the bent pis up with a hair dryer or something else just to avoid breaking them off.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

One question - was that 21FJP known to be under vacuum? The reason being: if it had gone to air, the heaters would be immersed in a heat-conductive fluid (air) and wouldn't be able to light up, thus continuing to pull heavy 'cold' current, which some testers' transformer can't supply. IIRC, Phil Nelson ran into this once upon a time on a 21" roundie. The tester was buzzing in protest, the heaters weren't lighting up, yet the whole gun end of the jug was getting hot from conduction since the jug had gone to air.

No, the tubes tested are fine and working.

Here you can see the problem...

https://i.imgur.com/5U5utJr.jpg

this is directly from the BK manual for the model 490b.

It shows for 6v 1 AMP max...

Here are the specs on the tube
https://i.imgur.com/1cf6BVv.jpg
1.8 amps for the heaters.

the model 490b does NOT have enough power to light them up, this is a design fault by BK.
If you try, the voltage drops from 6.3 to below 3.9 and all guns test BAD.
the only way to use the model 490b to test the large roundies is to get external power for the heaters of 2 amps or more.

BAD mistake on bk precision's part.

[kf4rca]

Beware of using FedEx again!

https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news...arges-rcna8454

[user181]

Originally Posted by kf4rca

Beware of using FedEx again!

https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news...arges-rcna8454

What's almost as bad as the actual crime is the driver's attempt to make excuses.