What is it?

Given to me today, like moving a 100 lb sack of potatoes.

RCA Vista color with large cataract

[Electronic M]

It looks like a CTC17 or CTC19. TV will be tube, stereo will be solid state. Cataract looks like it will fall off once you uninstall the CRT and cut the tape around it's edge ( if not we can advise).

The CTC17 was basically the much liked CTC16 roundy with sweep circuit changes to drive a rectangular CRT.
The CTC19 can work okay but it isn't as good a design as the 17... basically a lot of higher power type tubes from the 17 got replaced with 6GH8s in the 19 for cheapness and those 6GH8s were run at or above the ragged edge of their ratings. In a RC
A set that uses more than 2 6GH8s there is a joke that if the set has n 6GH8s n+1 will be bad.

Make sure you have done a few monochrome sets before you tackle this, then turn the color off and make it work well in monochrome before you think about working on the color circuits.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

It looks like a CTC17 or CTC19. TV will be tube, stereo will be solid state. Cataract looks like it will fall off once you uninstall the CRT and cut the tape around it's edge ( if not we can advise).

The CTC17 was basically the much liked CTC16 roundy with sweep circuit changes to drive a rectangular CRT.
The CTC19 can work okay but it isn't as good a design as the 17... basically a lot of higher power type tubes from the 17 got replaced with 6GH8s in the 19 for cheapness and those 6GH8s were run at or above the ragged edge of their ratings. In a RC
A set that uses more than 2 6GH8s there is a joke that if the set has n 6GH8s n+1 will be bad.

Make sure you have done a few monochrome sets before you tackle this, then turn the color off and make it work well in monochrome before you think about working on the color circuits.

This sets looks like a CTC17X. It uses a control panel like the roundie CTC16X, a slightly later model than the CTC16E which used two sets of tuner knobs.
The CTC19 was never used in a larger screen set, only in a 19" table model or compact console.
The CTC24 came out later in a 25" set. I don't think the made a combination using that cheapie chassis.

This is a 25" screen if that helps. I'll post guts pics tonight or tomorrow.

I did what I have learned never to do. It fired up in color, dim, but the cataract obstructs a lot. Lots of blue and red saturation, can't get to the back to adjust green. I probably won't turn the tv on again.

http://imgur.com/gallery/lP6ryzk

[damen]

Dieseljeep, they just made one.

Welp.

[consoleguy67]

Nice, decent color!

More pics

I need to clean the cataract

[bgadow]

Those sets are just new enough that I'll usually give them a try before replacing the capacitors. If the filter cans don't get warm you could just run it. With the cataract gone you'll have a real winner.

[Electronic M]

It looks like the center 5-7" of PVA is still holding it together.

When you get a good 80 degree or higher (the higher the better) day you can fix the cataract safely.
Basically you'll pull the TV chassis, flip the face of the set onto carpet to prevent scratches/dents to the wood, uninstall the CRT neck down into a garbage can or 5+ gallon bucket, remove tape around perimeter of screen, set CRT outside in hot sun for several hours (place black garbage bag over screen to increase heat if necessary). Then once hot ,gently pry out quarter sized chunks of glue around the perimeter and use wooden clothes pins as wedges to apply light pressure. Tap back in every few 15 min as they loosen. Some hit the clear part of the glue with a heat gun...that can be dangerous but I intend to try it next time as I have never had success with sun alone inlet there was less than 3" diameter of good glue left.

DRH4683 on youtube had some success with heat lamps and heat guns indoors during the winter but he also had an implosion and stopped doing it that way....

It's strongly recommended to wear safety glasses and thick clothing to protect from flying glass from implosion.

If you get the glass off in one piece peel the glue off both surfaces, clean residue with Goof Off, and glass cleaner in that order, then use 1/4" thick foam double stick tape spacers and caulk to reattach the safety glass. Don't get anything in farther than 1/4" in from the edge of it will not be hidden by the TVs mask and will bug you when viewing.

The issue that is number one is brightness. The screen brightness is turned quite high. So the set will be used on occasion like a specific show/movie that would have been watched back then. As it runs more often, the little flashes and interruptions as circuits come to life tend to take less and less time to correct themselves. I wonder if updating caps could fix that, it did on my older black and white set.

The color is superb considering a digital tv broadcast in hi-def is being run through an analog out RF coax. I think that makes sense.

The sound has a hum, so that could mean replacing filter caps? I notice high hum in other instruments and the feedback tends to mean replace capacitors, canned or otherwise.

How many scanning lines? Still 525? I have some color tv theory books to read, and the general Pinpoint TV Problems in 15 Minutes book, I like that one. It's been helpful with my black and white tv that I screwed the alignment, I'm still going slow to absorb that material and learn to use testing equipment.

I don't even get how it still works

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by BandDirector

How many scanning lines? Still 525?

All US analog sets are/were 60 field per second, 525 line per frame scanning only.
(If you want to get picky about that statement, yes, some, or maybe quite a few, chassis might be adjustable to European 50 Hz / 625 lines, but nothing like HDTV rates.)