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#31
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I variaced all sets from this lot on sunday and none produced raster.
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I want $120 for that 13" RCA. Last one I saw was around $120 (and I would have bought that had I not been saving funds for a Zenith I had to have), and it almost made the exceptions list on the ' I'd consider selling some of these post'.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#32
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I worked on a few CTC22's, a good effort by RCA compared to others. As the low-focus 13-14" color sets of the late 60's go, only that Zenith under it made a picture just as good.
The Sears-Toshibas-Sanyos and other budget small screens seemed like you could only get them to look so good, no matter how much you fussed with tube subbing and set-up adjustments, yet the owners claimed it "looked as good as before" after you fixed the original issue.
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"When resistors increase in value, they're worthless" -Dave G |
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#33
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I got the back off the RCA, the CRT is not very healthy in the green department unless heater voltage is raised, otherwise it is strong. I have a strong spare CRT I'd throw in for another $50.
If no one chimes in before noon central time that they definitely want to buy the TV or the CRT at the ETF then, I'll leave them at home...
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 09-22-2016 at 08:44 PM. |
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#34
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#35
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Aside from missing the back it should be fine. I have a spare (what I believe to be) Zenith CC black matrix CRT, that tests good, to install in it.
I really wanted it till I saw it was necked (likely before I was born)...Waffled a minute, then remembered I had 2 spare CRTs for it from there, and decided to take it anyway.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#36
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When I bought, for resale, used CTC22's, they never seemed to have the picture mine had. I have a CTC51K, which is a hybrid that uses, essentially the same CRT, but designated 14V, 1974 model. That picture is OK, but just doesn't sparkle. I glad they went to high focus voltage CRT's, even in the small sets. Unless, there's a fault in the focus circuit or the CRT is sick, good focus can always be achieved. Even on the GE PortaColors with HV focus. |
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#37
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During the weekend I finally gave all the sets from there the full clean they needed to come inside....That entailed opening all the sets removing chassis and CRT shields hosing each piece down thoroughly letting it all dry in the sun, and reassembling most of the sets. All the TVs had good CRTs except 2.
The Zenith 15Y6C15 had the plastic CRT base destroyed, and initially one of the pins knocked out, but after testing and some after dark blind fumbling about half have been knocked off. Most broke deep in the glass so I'm thinking of crunching that 15NP22 rather than trying to kludge a new base (which I think is not possible with the state it is in)...I have a better spare anyway. I'm debating whether to keep the 15Y6C15 for parts or restore it...One of the convergence board coil forms is broken and the tuner out jack ripped off the tuner...It is also missing every conceivable cover: bottom, back, pencil box, HV, tuner cover, etc...I suppose I could make the chassis work and use it to test my test jig...Maybe make a ugly shock hazard runner/beater out of it. DSCN2152 by Tom Carlson, on FlickrThe other problem CRT is in the 'Truetone' badged NEC...That one is rather weak at it's rated 6.3V heater voltage but comes up reasonably into the green at 8.4V...It is missing the back, knobs, tubes, and the tuner has several random hanging wires. I don't know if I should scrap it or restore it, what say you? DSCN2150 by Tom Carlson, on FlickrThe Hitatchi also feigned a bad CRT till it woke up from dormancy on the second test. DSCN2147 by Tom Carlson, on FlickrI now better know the score on the two roundys with snapped off leads...I was able to reattach leads successfully to stubs on both tubes....One had a glass evacuation nipple the other had a metal evacuation nipple...Until I noticed the one had a metal nipple (that caused a mental reversal) I held out the most hope for it. The tube with the metal nipple is VERY gassy (there was blue glow the size of my thumb in it and the tester exhibited the familiar 'neon bulb action'), and is definitely not going to be usable...I'm debating crunching it up to save space...If anyone wants a free DUD roundy CRT now is the time to ask for it. Now I'm sure your wondering about the other roundy CRT that was previously un-testable....That one tests VERY strong on my home made universal CRT adapter...All I have to do is install the new bakelite base I got at the ETF and it should be ready to install in a set...I plan to put that one in my 29JC20 to replace the flaky one currently in that set. The moto got cataracted just before the ETF. It's original tinted glass was destroyed in the process sadly...I was able to harvest a tinted glass for it off of a Zenith 25XP22 I got at the ETF, and that set is currently waiting reassembly and recap work in the basement. DSCN2146 by Tom Carlson, on FlickrThe necked Zenith now has a new CRT in it, and is waiting for repairs. I found the front half of the electron gun inside the CRT. The necking must have been quite violent...Not only did it snap the neck and front half of the gun it also launched the front half of the gun with enough force to put a hole in the shadow mask...I took pictures before I crunched the necked CRT. I'm beginning to wish I had sold tim the CTC-22 cheaply...That chassis is a COLOSSAL pain to extract from the cabinet...all the stinkin nuts that bolt the control panel/chassis to the face are VERY hard to get at with the chassis in, yet help hold the chassis in (an annoying catch-22). After cleaning that set I purposefully left it apart, and plan to keep it apart till I've got it working properly....I don't want to have to pull the chassis again. The Panasonic is missing it's damper...I'm going to have to get a sam's for it since the top cap lead for that wacky damper was not attached anywhere. Lastly the Zenith console...I was able to get most of the mold and tobacco odor out of the wood, but it still smells a bit. I swapped it's CRT into the metal set since it was better than my 2 other compatible loose spare CRTs. This set uses almost the exact same chassis as the table set, and I like the table set better. Would anyone be interested in purchasing that console (it is missing the back, bottom, HV cage cover, 3 tubes and the VHF fine tune knob), or should I dump the cabinet and keep the rest? I'd give it away with a lousy CRT, or take $65 to up-grade it to a good CRT. DSCN2148 by Tom Carlson, on Flickr
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#38
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What's the Panasonic model number? I can look through my Sams.
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"Restoring a tube TV is like going to war. A color one is like a land war in Asia." |
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#39
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#40
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Tom on your panasonic if there are 9A8's and 16A9's and maybe a 29KQ6 horiz. output then your damper will likely be a 30AE3 (base 9CB) the sets had two 300 ma. heater strings. Hope this helps. All the best, Tom.J
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#41
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It is CT-397 IIRC (the set is at home and I am at work). That would be nice of you.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#42
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The damper is some odd ball 45EC4 according to the tube chart...It is the first damper with a top connector cap that I can recall seeing in use in person. There are indeed 2 strings.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 10-10-2016 at 01:39 PM. |
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#43
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Ah yes forgot about the 45EC4, could not find them when the set was new. You had to try to get them from Panasonic. Starting about mid 1974 started using RCA double damper diode for the CTC22 color set to replace the 45EC4. Worked great,you will need 150 ohm 15 watt resistor to take place of the tube heater. Good luck finding that damper diode though. Looked but couldn't find the ECG number. Well good luck getting it going. All the best Tom.J p.s. Nte part number for the RCA damper is ECG/NTE173BP.
Last edited by tom.j.fla; 10-10-2016 at 03:34 PM. Reason: more info |
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#44
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#45
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if you have an extra good 23V delta gun tube from that hoard, I'll buy it. (for late 60s Zenith)
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