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You can still use the axial caps to replace them, just bend one lead over so they both stick out the same end and stick it on the board.
You have to remove the metal shield from the bottom of the board to do the soldering, it's not all that hard, five or six screws around the edge, possibly a trimmer cap soldered to the shield and the shield soldered to the board in three or four places, a lot of stuff but not hard to get to. It's actually a bit more difficult to figure out how to maneuver the shield out around the wires.
As I mentioned, the vertical on these is pretty fussy so check all the resistors in the vertical circuit and replace any that are more than 10% off. Use care with the soldering iron, the traces on the board are flimsy and will peel off easily if they get to hot (or even if they don't).
I just finished up a similar set but series string and 17" tube, I never did get the vertical perfect, just good enough that you don't notice any imperfections unless you have a test pattern on.
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