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  #31  
Old 10-31-2015, 12:10 AM
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TUD1 TUD1 is offline
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While this TV has a very good picture, it is starting to show its age. It has nearly imperceptible vertical bars running across the screen at all times. It is especially noticeable when the raster is blank. After getting up to adjust it countless times, I finally got it just right. This set does have plenty of cool factor though. I watched The Big Bang Theory for about an hour, and I guess it gave the capacitor a great big charge. When I turned the set off, the high voltage relief flash (as I call it) was bigger, brighter, and lasted longer than any time before. I like that.

Last edited by TUD1; 08-07-2016 at 10:23 PM.
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  #32  
Old 10-31-2015, 08:24 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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99% chance its the cap by the Flyback I mentioned.
Use a 450 V to replace it. Old ones are often 250V & they
have 200V on them so fail often. If you post the model
& chassis ##'s I can look it up & tell you exactly where it
is IF I have the manual.

73 Zeno


Quote:
Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
While this TV has a very good picture, it is starting to show its age. It has nearly imperceptible vertical bars running across the screen at all times. It is especially noticeable when the raster is blank. After getting up to adjust it countless times, I finally got it just right. This set does have plenty of cool factor though. I watched The Big Bang Theory for about an hour, and I guess it gave the capacitor a great big charge. When I turned the set off, the high voltage relief flash (as I call it) was bigger, brighter, and lasted longer than any time before. I like that.
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  #33  
Old 10-31-2015, 08:49 AM
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I don't have the chassis or model number since the sticker is not legible.
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  #34  
Old 10-31-2015, 10:16 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
99% chance its the cap by the Flyback I mentioned.
Use a 450 V to replace it. Old ones are often 250V & they
have 200V on them so fail often. If you post the model
& chassis ##'s I can look it up & tell you exactly where it
is IF I have the manual.

73 Zeno
In some sets, the cap is located on the CRT socket board.
In the Zeniths, the cap was rated at 315 VDC, which I considered an odd voltage.
That set must've been built before they started using those lousy flybacks.
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  #35  
Old 10-31-2015, 10:25 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Look at the tiny 'lytic on the CRT board, next to one of the driver transistors.
It's been like, 20 years since I worked on one of those.
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  #36  
Old 12-02-2015, 10:05 PM
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TUD1 TUD1 is offline
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This TV has started having some issues with the horizontal. I tried to fine tune it since it was slightly staticy. And then this happened. Whenever it does that, I have to turn it off and back on again. This TV could certainly benefit from a complete overhaul. New caps, alignment, all that good stuff.

Last edited by TUD1; 08-07-2016 at 10:23 PM.
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  #37  
Old 12-03-2015, 07:05 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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First did you look inside for a model / chassis ## ? Should
be one there also.

Hoz hold control may just need centering if its not a countdown set.
Also some sets by Panny, RCA, Hitachi & maybe a few others had
a circuit that would throw off the hoz freq if the HV went to
high. Usually caused by power supply. I dont think this is
one though, but its the right vintage.

73 Zeno

Quote:
Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
This TV has started having some issues with the horizontal. I tried to fine tune it since it was slightly staticy. And then this happened. Whenever it does that, I have to turn it off and back on again. This TV could certainly benefit from a complete overhaul. New caps, alignment, all that good stuff.
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