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  #11  
Old 09-29-2015, 09:34 PM
Findm-Keepm's Avatar
Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX37 View Post
Okay, thermistor shouldn't be a big deal, I probably still have one or two from a junked TV chassis that'll work.

Cleaned out some of the dust and got a better pic. I think I found the 4 diodes:
http://i.imgur.com/evv5Qbq.jpg

Now... best way to test these I figure is to clip a lead and put my multimeter on them and see if I get continuity only one way. Best way to do that is to completely pull out the chassis. There's one wire stopping me from doing this, and indeed stops me from completely removing any TV chassis I intend to fix:

The flyback wire.

Before you suggest the screwdriver method of making sure it's discharged, let me give a big NOPE to that! There's got to be a better way to remove it, right?
Two things - the rectifier diodes will check as a regular diode, with front to back resistance one way and open the other, or use a diode test function on your DMM, or just replace them outright with heftier ones - we used 1N5407s because they were cheap and good insurance that you wouldn't have a call back or have to pull the chassis again.

Second - to discharge the anode lead on the CRT - I use a grounded (chassis connected) clip lead attached to a long bladed screwdriver to discharge the CRT, then let it set for a few minutes and repeat. Then I grasp the 2nd anode rubber cup where the wire enters the cup and twist slightly, with some force to one side to dislodge the legs of the anode connector.

Remember -the CRT is what is charged (its a big capacitor with plates of aquadag and a dielectric of glass), and will obtain a "surface charge" just sitting, so always discharge the anode button to the aquadag before doing anything around the CRT.
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