1950 Magnavox Playhouse, I'm new to the hobby looking for advice.

[GAudiologist]

Hello everyone, thanks for letting me join. I found this TV at a local antique shop. The owner was afraid to plug it in, so he sold it to me for 30 bucks as-is. I'm new to restoring old televisions and working with tubes, but not new to understanding electronics and circuits. I'm looking for some insight on how to go about restoring this Magnavox. I think recapping and looking for bad resistors is probably what I'm seeing here to remedy it's symptoms. But I'm just guessing, and I would love to know where to start, and what else to check. I was told you all are the gurus to get to know and ask around. Here's a video of it powering up. What do you guys think is happening here?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmCzdh4yF3I

~ Thanks, Brian ~

[Findm-Keepm]

First, don't power it up again until it has been recapped - the paper capacitors and certainly all the electrolytic capacitors in the set will need replacing. There are a lot of helpful, nice folks here to help.

Phil Nelson has some nice articles on his website, and Bob Andersen (bandersen) is the guru of all things tube-black-and-white...

Get a Sams photofact for your set - it's a big help. Post the model number/chassis and we can help, using the Sams to guide you along.

Cheers,

[Eric H]

Yep, needs recapped, but at least that test proves all the vital parts are functional, CRT looks bright too.

[jbivy]

Welcome to the forum and pay attention to what these guys say, ive learned a ton from them and have gotten a few vintage sets up and running with their help

[DavGoodlin]

From the brief power-up, it appears you have a good CRT and many other parts like flyback, etc. I hope you cut power as soon as the raster disappeared.

It looks like it will make a nice picture once it has any out of tolerance resistors, weak tubes adn ALL paper/electrolytic capacitors replaced

[GAudiologist]

Thanks for the replies! I found the Sams for it, and it is a CT-277 chassis. I guess I'll start ordering caps. Do new modern capacitors always crap out with time like the old ones? Also, what are the best ways to clean up the chassis and components while I'm in there? Lots of dust... Do's and don'ts?

[N2IXK]

Originally Posted by GAudiologist

I guess I'll start ordering caps. Do new modern capacitors always crap out with time like the old ones?

Come back and ask in 60 or 70 years. I have a good feeling that our modern plastic film caps will do better than tissue paper and beeswax. Modern electrolytics aren't without their issues, however.

Also, what are the best ways to clean up the chassis and components while I'm in there? Lots of dust... Do's and don'ts?

I generally pull all the tubes and easily removable covers/shields/etc from the chassis, give it a quick vacuuming with a brush and shopvac. Really grimy areas get a damp sponge.

Be careful if you come across yellow or greenish powdery corrosion. This is likely oxidized cadmium plating, and cadmium compounds are toxic.

[GAudiologist]

Good to know, thanks. Speaking of safety, am I right to assume I can just short the leads of all these capacitors to discharge them before I remove them and be fine? Or are there some more things I should know going into this?

[Retro-guy]

Post some pics of the inside !

[Electronic M]

The lytics are the only ones (ignoring the HV system which has many how to discharge threads out there if you search) that can hold charge long enough to potentially give you a noticeable shock......On most sets the B+ on the lytics bleeds down long before one could pull the chassis so I would not worry. If you do still worry use a volt meter on the main B+ rail, and if there is less than 30VDC you will not get harmful or noticeable shocks from it, if more than that wait or ground that voltage with a lowish resistance high watt resistor.