My first Silvertone

[charokeeroad]

I think I found one it's a NOS from Bob. I think I will restore this set knowing that it will have a new CRT. Bob has some other large CRTs as well incase anyone is interested. If I had the gold I'd buy all the 16, 17, 18, and 19" CRTs.

I looked at the chassis and it looks like it might be one that I could replace the caps on. It would be my first.
what are the odds that it would work well if I just did that part? Can someone direct me to a copy of Riders 14 or Sam's Photofact #230-10 from February 1954? Neither one is available from the county library of San Bernardino or Los Angeles.



http://antiquetvguy.com/Web%20Pages/...or%20Sale.html

[charokeeroad]

Originally Posted by WISCOJIM

Look for a number like 132.41000 or 569.32440200. (3 digits, decimal point, 5-8 more digits). Sears often used those types to identify sets, and a Sam's search may then find a match.



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I looked on the ETF site but didn't find the Riders or Sam's listed there so I'm asking Sam's to do a search for me. Using their search engine it didn't find anything on either the model number or the chassis number. I did find a very dereriated label on the back that has the date 1950 on it. So We'll see what Sam's search comes up with. I believe the chassis number to be 47180 and the model number to be 456-150-1.

After looking at the bottom of the chassis and seeing only 15 or 20 caps there I'm really tempted to try and do this one myself. The component arrangement is very open...what could go wrong?...

[dieseljeep]

According to the code date on the original CRT, it shows 1952, 47th week. It must be the original CRT. Made by National Union. Also looks like a 17HP4, which wasn't out in 1950. I never saw a Pacific Mercury set in the midwest.

[dieseljeep]

Correction: 17HP4 30th week of 1952. 247 is the EIA code for National Union.

[charokeeroad]

Well that nails it! It must be a 1952 or 1953, assuming that it was permissable at the time to use up remaining stock from the previous year. For sure it's not a 1950 as I was believing based on the label on the back. Perhaps at some point we'll find out if it's a Pacific Mercuray or not.

Thanks

[charokeeroad]

Just got the bad news from Sams

"SAMS Technical Publishing was not able to locate the manual you requested in our database nor in our search with our partners. Sorry we could not assist you in this instance. Please check with us for future repair manual needs, we have access to over 230,000 repair manuals and are adding more every day."

[Tim]

Model 1299 and chassis 4561501 are covered in Sams 230-10.

https://www.samswebsite.com/en/photo.../samsid/230_10

[dieseljeep]

:

Originally Posted by Tim

Model 1299 and chassis 4561501 are covered in Sams 230-10.

https://www.samswebsite.com/en/photo.../samsid/230_10

Riders #14 has a lot of coverage on that model. It shows several different variations of that chassis. Three different tuners. All the part numbers start with PMA or PMB.

[charokeeroad]

Big Thanks! I'll order them both after I find out if Bob can deliver on the new CRT.

[charokeeroad]

Bob was sick but he's better now and he says he's got the CRT boxed up and he'll send it out when he gets the check. The checks sent so now it's a waiting game. NOS it's gota be good.

[charokeeroad]

Bob realy delivered on the CRT. Really well packaged and appears to be NOS as advertised. It tests "very good" on the meter.

[charokeeroad]

I purchased the Sam's package on a download so I have that now. with the set turned on I did a quick visual inspection. With my Dim Bulb Tester plugged in I could see that two tubes weren't lighting up, the 1G3GT and the 6AV5 GA. I have some spares. The CRT is dark although I know it has some life left in it. I can hear the a raspy low volume humm. No sparks no smoke.

[charokeeroad]

Here is a list of the capacitors. When I look at the list I see some of the voltages are not listed. Is the listing above it continued down until you get to a change? I don't see any listed as electrolitic does that mean there aren't any? I'm guessing that the part numbers won't be of much use since those parts aren't made anymore. Which caps should I replace? All of them? Is there one supplier that will have most or all of them? Thanks in advance.

[Electronic M]

C1 - C6 are the lytics. Any cap without a voltage spec is likely a ceramic or mica and (unless it is a mica in the deflection stages) should not need to be replaced. The ones that have a voltage ratings are either lytics or paper type and should be changed. Sam's always gives the first 'C' numbers to the lytic caps and you can tell the lytic from the paper because the capacitance value don't have any leading decimal points in the lytic values (Sam's also uses a different symbol for lytic caps than other types on their schematics which is helpful to know at times).

The ones that aren't lytics or papers (they usually have no voltage rating) and have values that don't contain decmal points are micas or ceramic and have their values listed in pico farads as opposed micro farads (like papers and lytics).

[charokeeroad]

Thanks Tom, I'm guessing that C1A and C1B are in a silver can. Since the cap rating doesn't have a leading decimal point they are Lytics. Same with C2A,B,C. All five should be replace as they all show voltages. They are lytic also, and they are in a silver can to right ? Then C4-C6 Lytics.

C7 through C37 are probably ceramic or mica so those don't necessarily need to be replaced?

Since C38 has a leading decimal point It's not a Lytic. Same with C39. C40 doesn't have a leading decimal point so it would be a Lytic? Same with C41? Each of those shows a voltage rating so they should be replaced?

Thanks again.