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  #76  
Old 06-29-2011, 05:34 PM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson View Post
Where do you get burlap? The last time I needed some, I went to a fabric store and the price made me choke.

Oh, for the days when my Grandma lived on a farm and always had stacks of clean old sacks ready for re-use -- burlap potato sacks, cotton sacks from buying flour, etc.

Phil Nelson
I got mine from Constantine's when I ordered the filler and it was a little pricey.
Later, I mentioned this process to a friend and he wished I had mentioned it sooner. Turns out he's friends with a local cafe owner that roasts it's own coffee beans and they come in big burlap sacks. I'll check into that in the future and see if the material really is useable.

I've also seen rice come in what looks like burlap sacks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintagePC View Post
I really enjoy reading your detailed restorations - great work as usual.

I did a double-take when I saw this last image. Looks _exactly_ like the finish job that was on my Fleetwood originally before I stripped and veneered it

...
Thanks for he compliment and the tips.

That last photo was before I rubbed the excess off. Here it is after I did.
Now I have to wait 24 hours before proceeding. That's the downside to solvent vs. water based filler. The water based dries much faster.
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Last edited by bandersen; 06-29-2011 at 11:46 PM.
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  #77  
Old 06-29-2011, 05:55 PM
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Dah-Yum !!!
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  #78  
Old 07-01-2011, 07:34 PM
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After letting the filler set for 24 hours, I sprayed on 3 coats of Deft sanding sealer. Once that dried, I lightly sanded with 400 grit.


Then a little more toner lacquer to blend it all together. Finally, 6 coats of Deft gloss lacquer.


I also finished off the chassis aside from remounting the CRT.
I decided to paint the corroded copper plated parts rather than have them re-plated. It's a lot cheaper and easier. Looks pretty good too I think.


I'll let it sit for a few weeks to allow the lacquer to fully cure before I rub the finish out. That will take care of the over-spray on the sides.
Here's a preview in the meantime.
Now where did I put that logo I clearly remember putting it somewhere safe. If I could just remember where
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Last edited by bandersen; 07-01-2011 at 10:05 PM. Reason: corrected typos
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  #79  
Old 07-01-2011, 11:23 PM
Bill R Bill R is offline
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I will be headed your way in the morning with your next project or parts. The one you are doing now looks great.
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  #80  
Old 07-01-2011, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill R View Post
I will be headed your way in the morning with your next project or parts. The one you are doing now looks great.
Thanks! When do you think you'll be in my area ? I need to make sure I'm around.
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  #81  
Old 07-01-2011, 11:53 PM
Bill R Bill R is offline
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I will get with you Sunday if that's ok. We won't be there before tomorrow evening.
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  #82  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill R View Post
I will get with you Sunday if that's ok. We won't be there before tomorrow evening.
Sunday afternoon between noon and 5pm would be ideal for me, but I'm flexible. See you then and have a safe trip.



For those of you wondering what the heck we're talking about. Bill is kindly bringing this Motorola 12K1 up from Tennessee and bringing back down the Motorola 19K1 chassis I restored for 'TheNixer' a while back.
Hmm, no 'Do It Right!' sticker

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Last edited by bandersen; 07-04-2011 at 09:52 PM.
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  #83  
Old 07-04-2011, 09:51 PM
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Bill R made it to my place safe and sound with the 12K1. It has a 12LP4A RCA CRT with good emissions and life test Certainly better than the 12LP4 currently in my 12K2.

I'll have to recoat it with Aerodag or SlipPlate before I can use it though.

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  #84  
Old 07-08-2011, 09:31 PM
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Apparently, early versions of the 12K1 and 12K2 had a TS-23 chassis not a TS-53. This 12K1 must be one of the early version because it has a TS-23B. I was planing to scrap it for parts, but unfortunately the focus coil and yoke won't work in WinkyDink's set.

That leaves me with a decision to make - do I scrap the 12K1 or restore it ? It is a really cheap set, but the minimalist design is kinda growing on me
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Last edited by bandersen; 07-08-2011 at 09:46 PM.
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  #85  
Old 07-08-2011, 10:55 PM
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TerrySmith TerrySmith is offline
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Quote:
do I scrap the 12K1 or restore it ?
If you scrap it out, it's gone forever! I'd poke it with a stick first to make sure nothing is alive in there.
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  #86  
Old 07-08-2011, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TerrySmith View Post
If you scrap it out, it's gone forever! I'd poke it with a stick first to make sure nothing is alive in there.
Luckily no critters were found - or droppings Just a lot of nesting material.
Yeah, I figured you guys would encourage me to save it. I'm willing, but it's got to go soon after I do. I'm way past out of space. The main challenge will be the cabinet. All the veneer has to be replaced

I'll start a dedicated thread once I begin work on it. I imagine this thread is getting confusing. For now, here's a quick look at the chassis.
Definitely cheaper that the TS-53. No bottom cover on the chassis and very little copper plating.
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  #87  
Old 07-08-2011, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
There's all your Dag coating, all you have to do is glue it back on!

I have a 12" Motorola chassis sitting in a shopping cart at work, not sure what model it was out of but it has one of the clear knobs and one of the red ones with the brass insert and M squiggle logo. Guess I should identify it and offer it up for parts if applicable.
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  #88  
Old 07-09-2011, 01:31 AM
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Eric,
If Bob doesn't need the red knob with the brass squiggle logo could I get it from you?
Just P.M. me the specifics.
Thank You,
Bret
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  #89  
Old 07-09-2011, 02:14 AM
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I'll take a look at it on Monday when I go back to work, unless I go there tomorrow to get my phone that I forgot, then it'll be sooner.
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  #90  
Old 07-09-2011, 03:17 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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I just realized I have the 10" table model of this set here with chassis TS14. Chassis looks almost identical to the 12" from what I remember when I had it out of the cabinet. My reverse silkscreen CRT mask has some flaking that I'm not sure how to tackle. Another excuses not to start working on it.

I sort of wish I had the 10VK22 floor model cabinet shown on the front of the Sams folder. There's something very attractive about it's modern lines.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 10VT24 002.jpg (61.4 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 10VT24.jpg (137.1 KB, 16 views)

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 07-09-2011 at 03:27 PM.
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