Motorola 12K2 restoration - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

bandersen · #31 05-24-2011, 08:38 PM

I found scraping to be an effective way to remove most of the finish. Certainly less messy than the areas where I resorted to citrus stripper.

The top had a few chips in the veneer. I cleaned up the edges and carefully cut patches from some salvaged veneer. After gluing them in, a little trimming and sanding made them almost disappear.

BTW I took the first two pics with natural daylight and the last at night with CFL lighting and a flash. It makes quite a difference !

Penthode · #32 05-25-2011, 08:44 AM

I like the Chinese frieze pattern running aroung the top of the TV cabinet. Looks very similar to an Edison C-250 phonograph. The Edison is mahogany too.

bandersen · #33 05-25-2011, 02:15 PM

Neat. The GE 802 has it as well, but just in the front.

wa2ise · #34 05-25-2011, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penthode

I like the Chinese frieze pattern ...

I thought that that was Greek or Egyptian style, but I'm not up on my interior decorating...

bandersen · #35 05-25-2011, 11:05 PM

Here's the original ad in a brochure I picked up recently. Click to see the full sized scan.

charokeeroad · #36 05-27-2011, 08:59 AM

Looking Good I think you will get a nice finish on that set. Use a couple of spray cans of semi gloss poly for the finish and take your time.
You did an amazing job on the veneer replacement. It took me a minute or two of looking at the pics to even begin to see even the slightest sign
of the repair. How did you get the cut line to match the new piece and how did you get the cut line to disappear after you put in the new piece?

bandersen · #37 05-27-2011, 01:52 PM

Thanks. I'll be using Deft gloss lacquer and rubbing itout with pumice and rottenstone. It has nitro-cellulose in it and produces a really nice finish. It's also what they used originally.

I was lucky in that I had some vintage mahogany veneer scraps salvaged during another project. The color and grain was a very good match. I matched the angles by holding a strip of the patch veneer next to the missing part and lined up a utility knife to score a line. When I cut out the patch, I also under cut it so the top surface overhung. That allowed me to get a very tight seam against the old veneer. I also rubbed a little sawdust into the glue to fill in any voids.

bandersen · #38 05-27-2011, 10:05 PM

I'm in the home stretch (I hope). All that's left before a power up attempt are the two multi-section electrolytics.

I colored the wires with markers to aid in reconnecting them. I also found one that had broken loose long ago. Maybe that led to the sets retirement

One down, one to go. I used Nichicons rated for 105C.

bandersen · #39 05-27-2011, 10:11 PM

I also finished the lower trim.
Here it is before and after rust removal. It's quite deeply pitted in areas.

Several rounds with first rusty metal primer then filler primer and sanding filled in the voids and should prevent the rust returning.

Finally time for the gold lacquer.

Here's a preview against the old grille cloth. Looks pretty good I think.

Findm-Keepm · #40 05-27-2011, 10:43 PM

Reminds me of that TV show "Rust to Riches"

I still say the Smithsonian is missing out on one heck of a restorer/curator.....another awesome job as usual.

Cheers,

charokeeroad · #41 05-29-2011, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bandersen

Thanks. I'll be using Deft gloss lacquer and rubbing itout with pumice and rottenstone. It has nitro-cellulose in it and is produces a really nice finish. It's also what they used originally.

Will you use spray or brush? On the top trim, can it be removed so you can do the finish work on the cabinet and then reattach it? I know some of it is already off how hard would it be to remove the rest?

One thing I really like about Poly is it is very forgiving. It dries flat even when you don't think it will.

bandersen · #42 05-29-2011, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charokeeroad

Will you use spray or brush? On the top trim, can it be removed so you can do the finish work on the cabinet and then reattach it? I know some of it is already off how hard would it be to remove the rest?

One thing I really like about Poly is it is very forgiving. It dries flat even when you don't think it will.

I'll be using the spray. Deft brushing lacquer doesn't have the nitro plus I really like the fan spray nozzle they use.

I did remove all the trim and it came off quite easily. I'll reattach it once I'm done striping the cabinet.

bandersen · #43 05-29-2011, 11:40 PM

The last cap has been rebuilt and remounted so here we go...

First power up using a DBT. I should really be using a higher wattage bulb, but at least nothing went up in smoke and I can tell the AC doubler is working and the filaments are all lighting up

I then hooked up the speaker and a 5AXP4 CRT. There's no HV doorknob cap in this set and the CRT has no aquadag so I wrapped a bit of grounded foil around it.

bandersen · #44 05-30-2011, 12:18 AM

I got a hum from the speaker and a little high pitched squeal from the flyback. I turned up the brightness and got a glow

I hooked up an antenna and did a little more fiddling. Eventually, I was able to pick up channel 6 and get a stable image. The sound quality and volume is excellent.

Time to fire up the 12LP4.

bandersen · #45 05-30-2011, 12:23 AM

The 12LP4 is producing a brighter picture than I had expected. I do hear some HV discharge and smell a little ozone though. Seems to be coming somewhere near the HV cap. I hope is just some dust and dirt conducting as I haven't cleaned the CRT yet.

How about some real programming ? Vertical is way off.

After a little tweaking.

Looking better but I still have a number of issues to work out: HV leak, vertical foldover and very touchy horizontal sync. Even so, not bad for the first power up.