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#31
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Quote:
![]() I could use the back, and a new clear faceplate (mine has a scratch). But I don't have enough room to keep the extra chassis, and $50 + $75 shipping is a bit pricey.
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#32
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Quote:
I did have one set shipped successfully and I did the same - cabinet and chassis in separate boxes well packed. Even so, I'd be leery of trying it again. One of these days I'm going to move to a bigger place and it just so happens the collector I bought this set from owns a moving company I'll feel better with my sets in his hands than some random outfit from the phone book. |
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#33
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Quote:
I was lucky to get a back with this set. It's a little bent and rusty, and someone cut a slot for the optional internal antenna. I don't have that antenna though - wonder what happened to it. ![]() That's the optional internal antenna in the background from another set. Next is the back from my 20X122 with the factory cut slot. Finally, is the back that came with this set. ![]() This set didn't come with the antenna, but I have one from another set. It was only commended for those in a strong signal area. Translation - it didn't work very well ![]() ![]() ![]() I was digging through my tubes and came across these two guys - solid state replacements for a 5U4. I don't know if I'll bother trying them though. Is 30 year old silicon any more reliable than a 60 year old tube ![]()
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#34
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Come to think about it, but I wonder how Admiral got those Bakelite TV sets from their factory to the TV shops and to customers' homes?
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#35
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Dunno, but the ETF has a great photo showing how strong they supposedly were.
![]() http://www.earlytelevision.org/admiral_19a11.html |
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#36
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While re-installing the chassis I notices they had been rubber mounted. My wooden cabinet Admirals are not. I'm guessing it's because bakelite is more dense
![]() They're not in the greatest shape so I've been working on replacing them. I used some plumbing washers for the lower chassis. ![]() I'm going to try to salvage the upper chassis mounts with some metal -> rubber cement. ![]()
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#37
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Although this CRT is working OK now, I doubt it will for long. So I've been keeping my eyes open for a replacement. I was quite surprised to see a NOS 10FP4 on eBay last week. I really hope I wasn't bidding against one of you guys
![]() Here's it is in it's original box. ![]() Did GE have exclusive rights to this tube ? ![]() ![]() It tests really good ![]() Here are a couple pics from my initial tests. It's hard to photograph the difference but to my eyes this tube is brighter and clearer. Maybe it's not kosher to use a 10FP4 in this set but I'm not complaining. ![]() ![]() Here's a video I shot while trying out this CRT. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua47ZsW9L4s Last edited by bandersen; 02-05-2010 at 10:48 PM. |
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#38
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Very awesome restoration!
Here is Cora's latest find, She rescued this pretty Admiral from the Fairview, trash compactor. She took it apart and after a good cleaning and a few new tubes she is as good as new. The paint is still show room new. She does get hot after a hour or so, so we only play her for short periods. I do not think she was ever watched at all from the condition she was in.
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#39
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#40
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I've been using a Simichrome a lot lately on brass and cadmium. It's been working so well I ordered up a big can of the stuff.
Then I got to thinking, how would it work on bakelite I had previously used a little Novus #2 and Glayzit on the top. Here's what that looked like. ![]() Here it is after a little Simichrome. I've only done the top, front edge and around the screen so far. ![]() Here it is after a couple more rounds of polishing. ![]() I won't kid you, it takes a lot of elbow grease. I spent about two hours on the Admiral and my arm is shot. Doing the sides and grill will take even more effort, but I think the results are worth it. Last edited by bandersen; 04-29-2010 at 05:01 PM. |
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#41
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The Nixer posted this comment on my Flickr page and I thought I'd share it here.
It's been years since I saw this movie and certainly didn't notice the Admiral at the time. Very cool to see one in action in a movie I think. Quote:
Last edited by bandersen; 04-10-2011 at 10:36 PM. |
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#42
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I recently pulled this set out for a little tuneup and thought I'd update this thread.
First off, that rubber to metal cement really did the trick. All four mounts are very securely attached now. ![]() Next up, I removed the rust from the back, polished it up and clear coated it. ![]() Then, I polished up the faceplate with Novus 1 & 2. I also attached a new foam surround with a little contact cement. I used it sparingly and had no problems with it attacking the old plastic. ![]() I also finally got around to cleaning up all the grillework. That grille cloth has really faded. It looks like the original color was green ? ![]() Here it is all back together. I
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#43
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While I had the chassis out, I also replaced most of the tubes in the tuner and IF and did a full alignment. It made a big difference in the picture quality.
![]() Here's a multi-burst test pattern. The bands on the far right are 4.2 MHZ and just barely discernible. The B&K 1077B test pattern looks pretty good too ![]() ![]() There's just one problem. Now, I'm seeing what i believe are called 'chroma dots'. I recall reading a tip about using the green component output of a DVD player fed into an RF modulator. I tried that and it definitely did the trick. Does anyone know any other tricks to reduce or eliminate them ?
Last edited by bandersen; 04-10-2011 at 10:58 PM. |
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#44
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If you have a DVD player that has component output, hook the Y line into the set right after the detector. You won't believe the difference!
Barring that (you don't get sound unless you hack the audio section as well), you'll need to filter out the 3.58 info to get rid of the dots. It's really bad on a Philco-Ford set I just got (which is color but still suffers), the dot crawl is atrocious. I don't think it properly filters out all the info for the chroma section, there's obviously still 3.58 in the luma. Some kind of tuned trap is what you'd need, good luck with that. I've been toying with the idea of feeding the Y and audio lines right into my Magnavox modulator, and feeding the TV with that on channel 3. Maybe you can do something similar?
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Evolution... Last edited by miniman82; 04-10-2011 at 11:41 PM. |
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#45
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Too bad my DTV receivers only has RF and composite output. My cheapo Comcast box is even worse - it only has RF output. I generally use a Blonder Tongue agile modulator to broadcast to my sets and they only take composite video. I suppose I could try a 3.58 MHz notch filter like this: http://www.allenavionics.com/LC_F/NTSC.htm Last edited by bandersen; 04-11-2011 at 01:59 AM. |
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