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  #31  
Old 01-26-2010, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Gee what a surprise!
... It was destroyed in shipping and now he's selling the remains.
I told him not to try it
I got mine about 12 years ago, and my dim memory says it was shipped by a trucking company, and well wrapped in bubble pack and corrugated cardboard box. With the chassis packed separately. It arrived in fine shape. And so far movers haven't fumbled it, after a few moves.


I could use the back, and a new clear faceplate (mine has a scratch). But I don't have enough room to keep the extra chassis, and $50 + $75 shipping is a bit pricey.
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  #32  
Old 01-26-2010, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa2ise View Post
I got mine about 12 years ago, and my dim memory says it was shipped by a trucking company, and well wrapped in bubble pack and corrugated cardboard box. With the chassis packed separately. It arrived in fine shape. And so far movers haven't fumbled it, after a few moves.

I could use the back, and a new clear faceplate (mine has a scratch). But I don't have enough room to keep the extra chassis, and $50 + $75 shipping is a bit pricey.
Hopefully he'll keep dropping that price. Or maybe you can ask him to sell just the parts you need ?

I did have one set shipped successfully and I did the same - cabinet and chassis in separate boxes well packed. Even so, I'd be leery of trying it again.

One of these days I'm going to move to a bigger place and it just so happens the collector I bought this set from owns a moving company
I'll feel better with my sets in his hands than some random outfit from the phone book.
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  #33  
Old 01-26-2010, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Starnes View Post
First rate work and thanks for the great pics, very interesting.
Thanks - glad you're enjoying it. I have about 20 more sets to restore so lots more to come in 2010. Here's a few more about this set.


I was lucky to get a back with this set. It's a little bent and rusty, and someone cut a slot for the optional internal antenna.
I don't have that antenna though - wonder what happened to it.



That's the optional internal antenna in the background from another set. Next is the back from my 20X122 with the factory cut slot. Finally, is the back that came with this set.



This set didn't come with the antenna, but I have one from another set. It was only commended for those in a strong signal area. Translation - it didn't work very well




I was digging through my tubes and came across these two guys - solid state replacements for a 5U4. I don't know if I'll bother trying them though. Is 30 year old silicon any more reliable than a 60 year old tube
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  #34  
Old 01-27-2010, 01:52 AM
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Come to think about it, but I wonder how Admiral got those Bakelite TV sets from their factory to the TV shops and to customers' homes?
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  #35  
Old 01-27-2010, 04:55 AM
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Dunno, but the ETF has a great photo showing how strong they supposedly were.




http://www.earlytelevision.org/admiral_19a11.html
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  #36  
Old 02-05-2010, 10:08 PM
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While re-installing the chassis I notices they had been rubber mounted. My wooden cabinet Admirals are not. I'm guessing it's because bakelite is more dense

They're not in the greatest shape so I've been working on replacing them. I used some plumbing washers for the lower chassis.


I'm going to try to salvage the upper chassis mounts with some metal -> rubber cement.


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  #37  
Old 02-05-2010, 10:17 PM
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Talking New 10FP4 CRT

Although this CRT is working OK now, I doubt it will for long. So I've been keeping my eyes open for a replacement. I was quite surprised to see a NOS 10FP4 on eBay last week. I really hope I wasn't bidding against one of you guys

Here's it is in it's original box.


Did GE have exclusive rights to this tube ?




It tests really good



Here are a couple pics from my initial tests. It's hard to photograph the difference but to my eyes this tube is brighter and clearer.
Maybe it's not kosher to use a 10FP4 in this set but I'm not complaining.




Here's a video I shot while trying out this CRT. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua47ZsW9L4s
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Last edited by bandersen; 02-05-2010 at 10:48 PM.
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  #38  
Old 02-18-2010, 04:37 PM
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Very awesome restoration!
Here is Cora's latest find, She rescued this pretty Admiral from the Fairview, trash compactor. She took it apart and after a good cleaning and a few new tubes she is as good as new. The paint is still show room new. She does get hot after a hour or so, so we only play her for short periods. I do not think she was ever watched at all from the condition she was in.
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  #39  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:38 PM
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Thanks. I got a new antenna a few days ago. Now it's the spitting image of Eric's

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  #40  
Old 04-28-2010, 10:35 PM
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Thumbs up Simichrome polish on bakelite

I've been using a Simichrome a lot lately on brass and cadmium. It's been working so well I ordered up a big can of the stuff.
Then I got to thinking, how would it work on bakelite

I had previously used a little Novus #2 and Glayzit on the top. Here's what that looked like.


Here it is after a little Simichrome. I've only done the top, front edge and around the screen so far.


Here it is after a couple more rounds of polishing.



I won't kid you, it takes a lot of elbow grease. I spent about two hours on the Admiral and my arm is shot. Doing the sides and grill will take even more effort, but I think the results are worth it.
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Last edited by bandersen; 04-29-2010 at 05:01 PM.
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  #41  
Old 01-28-2011, 10:40 PM
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The Nixer posted this comment on my Flickr page and I thought I'd share it here.
It's been years since I saw this movie and certainly didn't notice the Admiral at the time. Very cool to see one in action in a movie I think.

Quote:
You may have already seen this but I was watching La Bamba last night and was extremely happy to see an Admiral bakelite console in Ritchie's Mom's house.

The TV would be about 10 years old in the movie. There were also some other neat TV's. Bottom right looks like a Motorola console and bottom left looks like a neat looking portable Zenith. I freaked when I saw the Admiral though. I'd love to know if it appears in any other movies.

You can see the clip here, it's at the 6:29 mark. You see all the TV's within a matter of moments.
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Last edited by bandersen; 04-10-2011 at 10:36 PM.
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  #42  
Old 04-10-2011, 10:43 PM
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I recently pulled this set out for a little tuneup and thought I'd update this thread.

First off, that rubber to metal cement really did the trick. All four mounts are very securely attached now.


Next up, I removed the rust from the back, polished it up and clear coated it.


Then, I polished up the faceplate with Novus 1 & 2. I also attached a new foam surround with a little contact cement. I used it sparingly and had no problems with it attacking the old plastic.


I also finally got around to cleaning up all the grillework. That grille cloth has really faded.
It looks like the original color was green ?


Here it is all back together.
I
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  #43  
Old 04-10-2011, 10:54 PM
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While I had the chassis out, I also replaced most of the tubes in the tuner and IF and did a full alignment. It made a big difference in the picture quality.


Here's a multi-burst test pattern. The bands on the far right are 4.2 MHZ and just barely discernible. The B&K 1077B test pattern looks pretty good too


There's just one problem. Now, I'm seeing what i believe are called 'chroma dots'. I recall reading a tip about using the green component output of a DVD player fed into an RF modulator. I tried that and it definitely did the trick.

Does anyone know any other tricks to reduce or eliminate them ?
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Last edited by bandersen; 04-10-2011 at 10:58 PM.
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  #44  
Old 04-10-2011, 11:37 PM
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If you have a DVD player that has component output, hook the Y line into the set right after the detector. You won't believe the difference!

Barring that (you don't get sound unless you hack the audio section as well), you'll need to filter out the 3.58 info to get rid of the dots. It's really bad on a Philco-Ford set I just got (which is color but still suffers), the dot crawl is atrocious. I don't think it properly filters out all the info for the chroma section, there's obviously still 3.58 in the luma. Some kind of tuned trap is what you'd need, good luck with that.

I've been toying with the idea of feeding the Y and audio lines right into my Magnavox modulator, and feeding the TV with that on channel 3. Maybe you can do something similar?
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Last edited by miniman82; 04-10-2011 at 11:41 PM.
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  #45  
Old 04-11-2011, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by miniman82 View Post
If you have a DVD player that has component output, hook the Y line into the set right after the detector. You won't believe the difference!

Barring that (you don't get sound unless you hack the audio section as well), you'll need to filter out the 3.58 info to get rid of the dots. It's really bad on a Philco-Ford set I just got (which is color but still suffers), the dot crawl is atrocious. I don't think it properly filters out all the info for the chroma section, there's obviously still 3.58 in the luma. Some kind of tuned trap is what you'd need, good luck with that.

I've been toying with the idea of feeding the Y and audio lines right into my Magnavox modulator, and feeding the TV with that on channel 3. Maybe you can do something similar?
It tried the green component output of my DVD player into an RF modulator and it works quite well.
Too bad my DTV receivers only has RF and composite output. My cheapo Comcast box is even worse - it only has RF output. I generally use a Blonder Tongue agile modulator to broadcast to my sets and they only take composite video.
I suppose I could try a 3.58 MHz notch filter like this: http://www.allenavionics.com/LC_F/NTSC.htm
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Last edited by bandersen; 04-11-2011 at 01:59 AM.
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