My First Vintage Television

[GeorgeJetson]

Originally Posted by Sandy G

One WON'T be enuff...Next time you're tramping thru the local Anty-Kue mall, there'll be an old Zenith or Motorola look at you plaintively... Or one of those too-cute 8" RCAs from '56...Or maybe you'll fall victim to a Lilliputian 1.5" set from the '80s...Or a 3" Pilot from '47....Face it, Buster, you're hooked...(grin)

Youre right,you can't stop at just one!!
I sure wouldn't mind some Motorola's looking plantively at me right now!

[ggregg]

or an Admiral........

[GeorgeJetson]

...or all three colors of Sylvania Dualettes!

[sidbartos]

I took off the back panel and the model number on the chassis is V2373-1. Under this there is another number: 1E13. The tube layout diagram on the top underside of the cover notes that the picture tube is a 17CDP4. I still can't find any info on the model using the model number on the chassis, but searching the tube number I got the pdf of the info sheet put out by RCA. The inside is pretty caked with dust. Here are some pictures of the inside with the back panel removed:









EDIT: I should really use Google more instead of Yahoo..A search of the model number found a link to a google books archive of popular science. The Nov 1957 article has a chart of new model televisions with this model listed as a 17" portable with an msrp of $170. More info here: http://books.google.com/books?id=Oy0...page&q&f=false

[wa2ise]

I see one tube that looks like the vacuum leaked out. Most tubes have a silvery patch in the inside of the glass envelope, called the getter. Its function is to "get" any remaining gas molecules in the vacuum left over when they made the tube. Turns white if the atmosphere gets inside.

All the wax coated caps will need to be replaced. As others mentioned, these are capacitors with paper inside, and they absorb moisture out of the air and the acids in the paper corrode the foil and make electronic leakage paths. Modern capacitors are made with more durable materials. And will work better.

[Boobtubeman]

Yep, that tube by the HV cage is bad......

SR

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by Boobtubeman

Yep, that tube by the HV cage is bad......

SR

Yup, looks like 19AU4 (damper). The sandcoated fusible resistor (just below the tuner in the first pic) is probably open. We used to call 'em Gravel Gerties. They were made in values of 4.7, 5.6 and 7.5 ohm IIRC.
Bill(oc)

[DaveWM]

its a hot chassis, dont operate with the back off unless you have an isolation transformer.

[sidbartos]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

its a hot chassis, dont operate with the back off unless you have an isolation transformer.

Is this a problem even if it is unplugged? I have heard televisions are dangerous to work on even if they aren't plugged in.

[compu_85]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

its a hot chassis, dont operate with the back off unless you have an isolation transformer.

I've heard this mentioned several times, but have always wondered how an isolation transformer helps make things safer. Does it ensure the neutral line is actually at ground?

-J

[ggregg]

The HV lead to the picture tube can give you a pretty good jolt if the capacitors are good enough to store a charge and always assume that they can. Get in the habit of discharging it as the first order of duty whenever the back is off.

[leadlike]

The only jolt I ever got was from the picture tube itself-it can hold a charge for some time.

[jeyurkon]

You can get the Sam's Photofacts for the set here.

Looks like it had water spilled in it?

John

[DaveWM]

hot chassis means if you "can' come into contact with line current, the set was prob builit with a safty interlock and some means to keep the metal chassis from contact with the user,when plugged in.


CRT and shock you even when unplugged, not enough current to kill, but enough to cause sudden muscle contraction that can cause secondary injury by jerking into something.

The hot chassis on the other hand can kill if pluged into the outlet and you manage to touch it and a good ground, as you can get main level current that way. This is assuming you come into the chassis (the set is apart, plugged in while you are working on it).

There is a lot of opinions about transformerless chassis, from only using them with isolation transformers (even with all the saftys in place) to changing the way they are switched on, to just leaving them as is as long as the saftey interlocks are present, and the chassis isolation mounts are in good shape.

Personally I think they are ok as long as all the safteys are working as designed, but still I would not operate one and be in contact with a good ground. I have a all metal GE tv like that, the entire chassis is isolated from the metal cabinet by a few plastic mounts. Not something I would trust my life on, so I would not grab the plugged in TV while standing barefoot on a concreate floor as an example...


If you dont have one, a good thing to have is a HV probe, easy safe way to discharge the CRT and conveinent tool for checking HV at the CRT anode.

[dieseljeep]

For a set that looks that good from the outside, it's dissapointing to see the rust on the inside. You don't have to worry getting a hi-voltage shock, as the damper tube is cracked. It should a good performing set when restored.