|
|
|
#17
10-22-2008, 02:01 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Lol let it run.... I can't really object to that.
As for new CRT's I'm guessing not any CRT will work. I've looked on ebay and found crts but they are never for this particular zenith. Or a zenith at all. Would any electrostatic tube work(And I know they probably won't) And I will try not to look in it. I've only looked in 3 times for maybe a second or two just to check. I figured it was bad for your eyes. It's pretty much an extra bright tv focused on one spot. No more of that though! I've posted on AVS and it seems they know how to change bulbs and fiddle with controls more than anything. I've got very few responses that actually led me anywhere but another website. The yoke switching like some one mentioned, Lucky for me There is a sticker showing 4 ways to hook up about 8 connectors to achieve front floor and rear projection and I can't remember the rest. I'm going to try switching it to Front floor projection though. And I really, really don't think this projector has any menus on it. The whole things seems to be very analogue. G2 controls....? Are these controls controling voltages at the pins of the crt? P.S. I've tried turning some knobs that were labelled for the green gun. I can't get it to go any brighter from any of the obvious controls. After playing with them I always set them back to what they originally were. And I never turn them to extremes. 
|
|
#18
10-22-2008, 02:31 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yes for the G2 question..
It really is hard to tell from the pictures you've attached, but in the first one,the board in the middle of the picture may have the screen and focus controls, but can't be certain. Each control will effect the individual crt.The green is always in the middle. Can you read any of the names of the controls? From the picture you have firing onto the wall, it certainly looks like the green and blue guns are weak. If you want, try cutting out of cardboard a circle large enough to cover the face of the lenses.You only need 2 pieces. Then, cover two of the 3 lenses and see how much light you get.It's best to do in a really dark room.That projector uses 7" tubes and aren't very bright to begin with. If AVS is of no help, you could always go the Curt Palme's web site and shoot him an email regarding the crt's...You'll need the model number of the Zenith you have and he may be able to cross reference it to replacement crt's...to be totally honest, you will most likely be looking at 3,given the fact they all are dim.This will give you an idea as to the costs you're up against. You also may have drive board issues, as has been suggested. If you find the G2 controls, be cautious.Cranking them up can wipe out a crt.These are the controls that apply specific voltages to the crts.
|
|
#19
10-22-2008, 02:41 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Forgot to mention.This Zenith probably does not have a menu system.A lot of older projectors used analog pots that you use to set up geometry for each tube.That's why it's important to be able to turn off all light from the tubes except the one you are sizing.You always start with the green gun first and then the other two.Once you have them equal, then you go thru the convergence steps. There will usually be pots for each color and they will have name like hpos,vpos,hsiz,vsiz,skew,bow,lin,etc. See if you can find these anywhere.Typical place for them would be in the rear of the set with the cover removed.They should be all bunched together..so, you may see ghpos,rhpos,bhpos or something like that which would refer to green,red and blue horizontal position..Vpos would be the vertical pos and so on.
|
|
#20
10-22-2008, 03:12 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
That is a very unusual projector, It looks like the crt's are round. And yeah it looks too old to have any digital controls. I wonder if those crt's were made by Zenith at their own plant. My Barco's and Bell&Howell use Clinton Electronics tubes that are rectangular. There is a place in Georgia that can rebuild projector crt's. The name is Video display Corp. in Georgia. I searched their website and most of the Zenith tubes run under $200 for rebuilds.
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#21
10-22-2008, 03:31 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
VDC is the one that rebuilds crts.I recall reading about VDC replacement for Electrohome projectors quite a few years ago. This is why I mentioned Curt Palme.He reconditions projectors and sells them and has (or had) a lot of crts that were parted out and he may have some info onth the ones that were used in this Zenith.He has used VDC rebuit tubes. It would not be,IMO, worth it to buy rebuilt CRTs for this unit because they would cost more than you could probably pay for a decent working projector.These early Zeniths were just so so performers. I'm certain that he could find a Sony VPH-1251/1252 for under $200 these days and it would provide a decent start for someone who want to get their feet wet with CRT projectors.These Sonys use onscreen menu systems to adjust everything.
|
|
#23
10-22-2008, 07:42 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
should I really try running this set for a couple hours?
Also would brightness invlove The HV lines? Cause if so I have something to say
|
|
#24
10-22-2008, 08:13 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#25
10-22-2008, 10:28 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have that SAME exact projector. Except it is labeled as VIP Mark 3 from layfayette.
I NEEEEEED to find a schematic on this thing somewhere. The convergence board in these bad boys are poor. I was going to rewire the set with a digital convergence module, but i need to find a schematic. Oh BTW, its a rare one, and yeap mine still plays. except the poor convergence that just wont correct very well. Edit/Delete Message
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#26
10-22-2008, 10:32 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yes i know this projector inside and out. I'm the person to talk to about this projector. Its a very crappy design, and an extremely rare projector. Although they will play forever if you take care of them.
Your case is probably a open resistor in the feedback circuit off the splitter assembly, and the splitter assembly also known to go bad. (i had to unpot and rewind mine, as i never found a suitable replacement. and i WILL NOT DO THIS AGAIN. it was terrible). The orientation and convergence setup is done on that little board in the middle of the unit. I am going to warn you that the convergence is piss poor on these particular projectors, and they are video grade only. I was going to re-wire mine to use digital convergence, but I cannot find schematics/data on this particular set. Also, the CRTs are round, and the glycol chamber is part of the tube. on mine, the blue tube glass cracked, (CRT is fine, still works) and the glycal leaked out. I had to get a new peice of glass cut for the chamber, dig out the silicon, and replace the fluid and redo the silicon seal.
|
|
#27
10-22-2008, 10:51 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
One more thing: Your going to have to go through every capacitor in that set. I advise getting an ESR meter and adding that to your collection of electronics testing gear. it pays for itself in notime.
Ok, a set this old, the elecrolytics are going to dry up. I had to recap my entire video signal board before mine would even show a picture!. then while i was in there, i went ahead and did up the power supply and HV sweep modules. I found the picture framer board quite annoying, so i unhooked it. I guess I am lucky, but all 3 CRTs are very strong in mine. Although, the red CRT appears to show a "raster with retrace" even with the filiments unlit and disconnected. and also some purplish blue is seen on the clear spot of the neck, so its probably getting gassy, however once the tube filiments heat up, picture is nice strong and crisp, so it does have some life left. also its intriguing to know that theres another individual out there with this projector. ive been fighting a monologues battle with mine. hehe.
|
|
#28
10-22-2008, 10:53 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well, that looks like the right kind of challenge for you JesusJones! Good luck...
|
|
#29
10-23-2008, 12:22 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
If those are liquid cooled tubes could there be mold or fungus growing in the coolant? I know that was a problem with some rear projection sets. It would cause a major loss in brightness for that tube. The solution was to empty the coolant, then clean the front of the tube and the lens, then replace the coolant with new fluid.
By the way when you search for the tubes try searching for PRT's as well as CRT's. This was to distinguish them from regular picture tubes. Bill R
|
|
#30
10-23-2008, 08:43 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Rudy...while I really applaud your intentions to get this projector to work, I am of the opinion that if you are able to get this working,the actual performance will probably be disapointing. Do not take my statement as a negative one..it's just from personal experience..they do not look very good (sorry mbates).
If your interest is just to find the problems and get it working, then more power to you.It would be a great learning experience. But, if you plan to use it for the purpose of watching a large image, you can do much better that this. If you haven't checked out Videogon, give it a look..lot's of CRT projectors for very little money ( excluding shipping charges if that applies). Here's an example of a fairly decent projector capable of higher scan rates than a video only projector.That means it can handle line doublers, progressive scan DVD,etc. where the one you have can only do video at 480i which means you'll see the scan line structure big time. Conversly,with one that scans at 31khz, you could play a progressive scan DVD player without seeing those lines... http://cgi.videogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.p...851&class&3&4&
|
| Audiokarma |
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
