Philips 32PS55 S3231 Powers up, then shuts off 20 seconds later.

[MRX37]

I'm going to replace the bad resistor I found on the CRT neck board first. If that does nothing, I'll fiddle with the G2 control.

I really don't think it's the G2 control though, as the picture looks fine, and the CRT is at full brightness in under 10 seconds. Really, the TV only stays on for closer to 15 seconds, now that I've counted it.

[MRX37]

Eh, that "resistor" on the CRT neck board is actually a coil that just happens to look EXACTLY LIKE A RESISTOR! I only found this out after putting in a 22 ohm resistor and getting no picture on the screen... and the TV still shut off after 15 seconds or so.

I only found out it was a coil by looking at the tiny diagran on the PC board... Good going Philips... use parts that look exactly like other parts, and don't bother to label them properly. That ***REALLY*** makes me want to buy stuff from you!

Anyway, after that I started checking all the caps near the power supply, HOT, large IC, and power button. All of them tested fine. These are Nichicon caps. I've never seen a failed Nichicon cap, especally in a TV that's only seen 3 years of use.

I'm at a dead end. Anybody have a SAMS for it, or a definite answer as to why this damn thing shuts off by itself?

[freakaftr8]

When you have a raster on the screen, do you see a flicker in the vertical deflection? Or does there seem to be a stretched width in the horiz?

[MRX37]

Nope. The raster is in apple pie working order. The picture looks fine, for the five seconds that it's on.

[rcaman]

if i were you i would not touch that g2 control untill you have checked almost every part in the set and found them good..

[MRX37]

Originally Posted by rcaman

if i were you i would not touch that g2 control untill you have checked almost every part in the set and found them good..

I haven't touched the G2 control yet.

Lets see: I've tested all caps in the power supply, the HOT's obviously fine, as the TV has a fine raster for the few seconds that it's on. Nothing is overheating. It doesn't even have the chance to get warm.

I thought a resistor on the CRT neck board was bad, but it turned out to be a coil that happened to look exactly like a 4 band resistor...

There is nothing burnt, or any caps with shrunken labels. This chassis actually has relatively few caps, and as far as I can see, they're all Nichicon caps. Every cap I've tested reads fine.

I'm stumped.

[radiotvnut]

I checked the Sams Photofact online index and nothing turns up on that model number. I think a service manual is in order for this set. Try www.tritronics.com and see if one is available. The only other thing I can suggest is get a service manual from Philips and check all the power supply voltages. It could be possible that the B+ is high and triggering a shutdown circuit. Many of these newer TV's have so much "fault detection" circuitry that the older sets did not have. On the older sets, whatever was wrong just shorted and smoked something, making it real easy to find the trouble.

[freakaftr8]

Did you try some resoldering of heat syncs around the board esp the HO?

[MRX37]

Originally Posted by radiotvnut

I checked the Sams Photofact online index and nothing turns up on that model number. I think a service manual is in order for this set. Try www.tritronics.com and see if one is available.

Um... That website sells dog training equipment...

If I have to buy a service manual, I'm gonna just tell my friend to shitcan the TV.

Unless some other thing to try comes up, I'll fiddle with the G2 control tomorrow.

freakafter8: The heatsinks are fine. The transistors don't even have the chance to get warm. The TV ALWAYS shuts down at the same time. This is not heat related.

[radiotvnut]

Oops! Sorry! I meant www.tritronicsinc.com. See what happens when I type fast while not thinking about what I'm doing!

[rcaman]

what i am trying to tell you is that the g2 has to be dead on or the set will shut down. a little to low or a little to high will cause that set to shutdown. steve

[MRX37]

Originally Posted by rcaman

what i am trying to tell you is that the g2 has to be dead on or the set will shut down. a little to low or a little to high will cause that set to shutdown. steve

Okay, I adjusted the VG2 control, just a little bit, and...

The fucker's staying on.

Okay, from a design standpoint: THIS MAKES NO FUCKING SENSE!! From a planned obsolescence standpoint, sadly it makes perfect sense...

I hate Philips now. NEVER will I buy a TV from them!

[radiotvnut]

Originally Posted by MRX37

Okay, from a design standpoint: THIS MAKES NO FUCKING SENSE!! From a planned obsolescence standpoint, sadly it makes perfect sense...

I hate Philips now. NEVER will I buy a TV from them!

Yes, it makes perfect sense for them to design something like that from an obselescence standpoint. It's just their way of insuring that the set will be rendered non-operational in a few years. I would not buy a current Philips product, either. I was not impressed with the quality of the few post 2000 model Philips TV's that I've seen. I did come close to buying a Philips CD recorder. That is until I read all the negative reviews on the thing. The NAP (Magnavox, Philco, Sylvania) TV's of the '80's and '90's were pretty good quality. I still see many '90's era Philips-Magnavox sets that only need minor repairs to get them going again.

[MRX37]

I'm glad this isn't my TV. I have never seen a TV shut down due to an out of adjustment VG2. I didn't even think a TV could detect something like this.

Is there anyway to disable this "protection"?

[rcaman]

hate to say but i told you so. i dont like anything philips or panasonic makes. steve