1961 Coronado Capri

[fixmeplease]

I'm glad to hear it is a somewhat decent quality. The 20W tests at 330 and is supposed to be 36 ohms. this wont matter? Yes, it has a 200 and a 250uf electro's. They'll be one of the first things replaced. I think they will both be replaced with 220's unless thats a problem.
Can the chassis safely be started without the CRT, speaker, etc not hooked up? Too test voltages. The less times I have to pull it apart the safer the crt neck will be.
Thank you for the reply.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by fixmeplease

I'm glad to hear it is a somewhat decent quality. The 20W tests at 330 and is supposed to be 36 ohms. this wont matter? Yes, it has a 200 and a 250uf electro's. They'll be one of the first things replaced. I think they will both be replaced with 220's unless thats a problem.
Can the chassis safely be started without the CRT, speaker, etc not hooked up? Too test voltages. The less times I have to pull it apart the safer the crt neck will be.
Thank you for the reply.

That resistance can't be that high! The tubes wouldn't light up. You can run the set without the CRT, but the yoke has to be connected. 220's are probably enough capacitance.

[zeno]

What does the Sams say about the resistor ??
Looks like it goes to the rectifier. If so normally its
a 5.6 ohm 5 watt fusable or there abouts. Also
its a wire wound & I have NEVER seen one change value
only open. If it is open change the rectifier too.

For testing you can pull the chassis & yoke then put
the HV lead in a glass jar. OR get a test CRT. OR get
test sockets that plug in between the tube & socket.

The dag thats flaking needs to be fixed. It acts as one side
of a cap along with the inside coating & needs to be grounded.

Last thought is BEFORE a recap get a picture on the set.
Many reasons why........

73 Zeno

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by zeno

Last thought is BEFORE a recap get a picture on the set.
Many reasons why........

73 Zeno

He did say he brought it up on a variac and only got squealing from the speaker.....If it powers up like that he will have to replace caps to get a picture on it....Maybe go a few caps at a time and test the set after each 1-3 caps, but if it ain't showing a picture with all those bad plastic caps in it there is NO way it will get better with all those caps there.

[fixmeplease]

Im including a pic of that part of the schematic. It has a 5.6 ohm fuseable installed (R57) and that is fine. Its the other one (R58) that tests so high. I circled them in red.

Thanks again for the advise. I will recoat the CRT, clean sockets and tubes, put in new electros and see what happens. (maybe other things that I spot) All the tubes did light up when I had it powered, but several were bad so I will replace those too. I guess I will just put it all back together before trying it. It wasnt t too bad to take out, I just worry about the neck.

Edit: electric M, I posted before seeing your last post. I dont mind switching the caps if I need too. They are all bumble bees so I figured there may be bad ones anyway.

[wa2ise]

You could probably get away with gluing aluminum foil to the glass to replace the flaking stuff. Avoid the high voltage connection and the yoke area. And be sure the foil is connected to the set's ground.


You'll need to replace the usual wax caps, bumblebees and electrolytics.

[fixmeplease]

Being a rookie on tv's, I probably better not try the tin foil as I may damage something or do it wrong. I painted for a living many years and understand that. Is this the correct slip plate product? There are a couple varieties and this one has a G on the end. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SLIP-PLATE-3...4AAOSwnipWYodd

At the very least, I'll test the bumble bees and replace the bad ones, after it being suggested now a couple times. Maybe I'll just do them all as its good experience anyways. Thanks!

[wa2ise]

Originally Posted by fixmeplease

At the very least, I'll test the bumble bees and replace the bad ones, after it being suggested now a couple times. Maybe I'll just do them all as its good experience anyways. Thanks!

Don't bother testing them, they're all bad.

[zeno]

It may be an error in Sams. If its a say 33 ohm & you add
a zero its a 330 ohm..........

For now just check for APX 95 vac on pin 7 of tube V7.
You do not want to put a 33 ohm in if its a 330 ohm.
NOT good for the filaments............

Why get a pix first ?
1) to be sure you got a good CRT. Even if it tests good it still can be bad
& visa versa.
2) check to see that all MAJOR parts are OK. Even 40 yrs ago
you couldnt get some of this stuff.
3) you learn by troubleshooting NOT shot-gunning
4)re-caps need to be done a few at a time followed by a test.
If you do something wrong its easier to find if you just gotta
look at a few things. Nothing worse than finding a self induced
problem. Sends techs running if its "been somewhere else"
& never fixed. And you never get the truth out of the
customer !!

good luck
Zeno

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

That resistance can't be that high! The tubes wouldn't light up. You can run the set without the CRT, but the yoke has to be connected. 220's are probably enough capacitance.

I forgot to mention that you have to jumper the CRT socket, pins 1&12 to get the tubes to light, without the CRT in the circuit.
Regarding the heater dropping resistor, what kind of meter are you using?
The reading is off, by a factor of 10. The resistor looks original, with a W-G part number. As before, the tubes wouldn't lite, if the resistor is 330 ohms, instead of 33 to 36 ohms.