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  #19  
Old 07-18-2014, 08:16 PM
NoPegs's Avatar
NoPegs NoPegs is offline
The glass is -3dB.
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Amish Country PA.
Posts: 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post
I wouldn't feel safe doing that, cheap solder could mean cold joints later on, especially bad where safety caps are concerned.
60/40 rosin core is kind of hard to screw-up, really, and is the only thing you should use when reworking vintage sets because if you slap some 63/37 or 60/35/2 into a formerly 60/40 joint you get all kinds of FUN solidification point alterations... Obviously if you're overhauling a vintage tek you need to use silver-bearing stuff or you'll do bad things to the beautiful silver on ceramic strips they use...

I agree that "cheap" silver-bearing or RoHS no-lead stuff that is "multicore" warrants some scrutiny before purchasing, but not 60/40. Mainly the RoHS stuff because the cheaper it is the more likely it is to have tin-whisker issues...
 



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