http://suzaku.live-evil.org/465994955_577103861389025_6194287013562865189_n.jp g

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/465997671_3220403238090181_5378954213643642247_n.j pg

I don't have it yet, but hope to in a couple weeks.
It's about 3.5 hours drive from here.
The ting seems in rough shape, but is worth saving.
Also taking a gamble on it as it MAY have a 16AP4, 16AP4A CRT on it, and we all know what they have a habit of doing! :tears:

Oh wow! I think I saw someone post about that on FB a few months ago. Funny to see all the back and forth about value. For sure it's rare and unusual. I'm glad you're saving it.

16AP4s are out there. I was able to get a good used one for my Stromberg Carlson not long ago.

What was the year of manufacture?

What was the year of manufacture?

I wont know till i get it, as fer as I know they were made from 1947/50 or later, so it may be a metal cone or glass type.

I managed to find service info on it, took a few tries, and it seems it;s a bit odd!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-b.jpg

Have not seen dual HV rects before! :D

Voltage doubler to get 14kV. What CRT does it use?

Voltage doubler to get 14kV. What CRT does it use?

Says it has a 16AP4

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/93A-9.pdf
also seems to have a rca 630ts style voltage divider in it.

OK, I asked because 14kV is the max for a 16AP4. Looks like they pushed it hard.

The more I look at the schematic, the more they seem to have borrowed from the early RCA sets, as it looks very familiar. :D
And they seem to be using a lot of 6SN7GTs :O
And it has AGC! :yes:

I have a Magnavox Embassy combo set with perhaps the same TV chassis, mine is a CT-246, one of the ones on that schematic diagram. (The diagram was the only thing published by Sams, in set 91A or 97A or something like that.)

I got mine in 1979, and I did some repairs on it in 1980 (years before I knew about replacing all of the paper capacitors). I did get a raster, dim but enough to see that it had DC restoration, such a nice sight. Yes, mine has a 16AP4 CRT.

15 years ago or more, a local seller on Craigslist had the same model as mine, but with a curved-corner-rectangle mask rather than the double-D style on mine and Yamamaya42's set. It was gone before I could see it.

(Update: I see that Yamamaya42 posted the Photofact folder above. Thank you! I was close on the number...)

As a teenager, I remember reading a 1950 Popular Science article how to convert your TV from a 10BP4 to a 16AP4.

https://books.google.com/books?id=KS0DAAAAMBAJ&pg=RA2-PA229&lpg=RA2-PA229&dq=16AP4+tube+picture&source=bl&ots=5vJ2QwKbpR&sig=bvcOrLSFY8pDXo08ysBxaAVAlaI&hl=en&ei=45tyS82iIM_T8AaayYG4Cw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=16AP4%20tube%20picture&f=false

Well, was all set to go pick this set up this weekend, but something came up to delay it another week. :(

Looking at the schematic, this will be a real pain to fix, as I hinted, it has 5 6SN7GTs, NOT CHEAP if new are needed, and the lack of info so far, if any parts are needed, no info on the Vertical blocking oscillator transformer or output transformers, and the peaking coils also have no information about them, coils just say “white, black, green, yellow” no H value listed.
There may be a Magnavox service document out there someplace with more details, but I have yet to find it.

All seems set to go get it tomorrow, and the first thing I will do when I get it back, test the 16AP4. :drool: Will it be a paperweight? :O

I got it!!! :banana:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251855.jpg front view
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251855b.jpg LOOK! ALL THE KNOBS ARE THERE!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251855c.jpg Back view, someone stole the HV cover!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251914.jpg PWS, I dont think that one 5U4GB is good for some reason.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251837a.jpg :scratch2: um that's not a 16AP4, funny, it says 16AP4 on the chart!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251913.jpg testing...
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251913a.jpg DEAD! STONE DEAD! 20 min, wont wake up.:tears::tears:
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251948.jpg COOKED!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251948a.jpg 16FP4
It's clear that thus is a replacement, and it too was run to death. the 16FP4 is almost an inch larger than the original tube it was made for and is oversized for the screen bezel that was in there, but was made to work.

https://tubedata.altanatubes.com.br/sheets/127/1/16FP4.pdf
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/1/16AP4.pdf

Now i need to find SOMETHING i can make work in there again! :scratch2::sigh:

It wants to live!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0223251102a.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/flir_20250223T110141.jpg

power transformer is good!

5U4GBs removed, filament power only.
Could not get power from main cord to work bad switch or safety interlock not engaged correctly, hooked power direct to primary winding of the transformer.

Is there room to mount a rectangular CRT if you had to? Like a 17BP4?

Is there room to mount a rectangular CRT if you had to? Like a 17BP4?

Yes, if the glass and plastic bezel are off, there there is a very large space, but how easy is a 17BP4 to find?

ETF does have some 16L/CP4 tubes, which are rather close, and could be adapted if need be.

Trivial, compared to a 16AP4. There are lots of other 17" rectangular CRTs too. Got one for $20 at the last swap meet.

Chassis removed.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0223251338.jpg

Looks like it's been worked on before, those orange drops are not original, the multi section capacitors are shot, looks like they got hot, one is bulged.

The filter choke looks awful, (L112), looks baked, dark enamel , exposed copper, seen on the lower left corner of the main section, it does not test open or short, but it looks toasted, as if C201A had shorted and overloaded it.
And since there is no type info for replacement that I can find yet, but this horizontal output section seems to be very close to the RCA 630TS, having the same pi filter feeding the damper, I tracked down the replacement shown in the SAMS for a RCA 630TS, (stancor c-2326) for $13, my guess that it's correct enough to work.

With that, does anyone know if there is any other service info on this set, other than the SAMS I found with just the schematic? Cause w/o a guide to what is what and where, it's gonna be a royal pain!
Thanks! :D

And since there is no type info for replacement that I can find yet, but this horizontal output section seems to be very close to the RCA 630TS, having the same pi filter feeding the damper, I tracked down the replacement shown in the SAMS for a RCA 630TS, (stancor c-2326) for $13, my guess that it's correct enough to work.


Don't forget the horizontal output transformer has two filament windings. 10 and 12" CRT varieties only used one. It's possible you could move the HV filament loops from your old flyback to a replacement, but there could be other subtle differences in the other windings. I wouldn't assume yours is bad until you get it operational. Have you figured out what this TV's model number is?

Don't forget the horizontal output transformer has two filament windings. 10 and 12" CRT varieties only used one. It's possible you could move the HV filament loops from your old flyback to a replacement, but there could be other subtle differences in the other windings. I wouldn't assume yours is bad until you get it operational. Have you figured out what this TV's model number is?

I have that in mind, I'm not sure if the flyback in this set is good or bad yet, I'm hoping it's OK, I just know that so far that the filter choke looks like hell, will post a pic of it later.

If by chance the FBT is bad, i still have the RAM replacement that I have for my FADA, 895, that should work, i would just have to add a 2nd winding.
the chassis is a ct-245.

No longer available info. :D

Got it! Tks! :D
that will help!

They seem to be missing a parts detail of the audio amp area. :(
Something has been chewing on the caps in that area:tears:


http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251601a.jpg
sad looking filter

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251603d.jpg
bad caps

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251603c.jpg
FBT

Wire broke off when i removed the cap from the tube
any way you can get a more detailed shot of page 6-4? focusing in on the chassis detail and not so much the text? cause when you zoom in, it gets fuzzy and it;s hard to make out the numbers, TKS ! :D

Will try doing that tomorrow when I have some sunlight.

oops double posted.

Curious how well the 16FP4 (60 degree) worked as a replacement for the 16AP4 (52 degree)? I would expect the additional 8 degrees of deflection required was remedied some how?
I tried a 16GP4 (70 degree) in place of a 16EP4 (60 degree) in a Zenith porthole, and ended up with a neck shadow issue of about an inch, as the yoke couldn't be slid enough forward.
I read once where the "old timers" would soften the yoke in an oven, then force it over a bottle to flare it open a little. Fixed, LOL... Gotta love them old timers.

P.S.

You'll never "neck" one of these with that "2x4" running down the back, LOL
:lmao:

Any opinions on that crappy looking filter coil? :(

Will try doing that tomorrow when I have some sunlight.

I tried this several times but the original is so small and the print quality has reduced the definition of some of the component numbers. Possibly someone else has a better quality print in their Riders 6, but I suspect this happened when they reduced the original to fit the page space.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152661900@N02/albums/72177720324061767/

Any opinions on that crappy looking filter coil? :( If it works brush some polyurethane on for additional insulation and wrap paper around it for appearance.

Status so far.

CRT = 16FP4 -DEAD, working to get a replacement 16LP4, slightly different, but close enough.
Chassis out, evidence of rodent activity, but minor, did not get under main chassis, did chew in audio sub, no wires chewed.

Cover of HV cage gone, dirty inside, will need lots of cleaning, FBT status unknown, wires very brittle, one snapped in half when removing HOT caps, at least one of the 500 pf caps has cracks in the surface, the one on the top of the 1B3GTs, may be from heat, good/ bad unknown, if bad, may replace with 2 1000pf (10kv) in series.

Main filter looks awful, but is not open, will try to coat it as suggested, if it fails, have a STANCOR C-2326 on the way.

All electrolytic capacitors were ordered, and have just arrived, already have a mess of film capacitors and resistors.

Will start on it Friday night, beginning with the audio sub section, since it comes out and is easy to access, then main power.

First goal point, to get the horizontal oscillator up and running.

will d/l your document when i get home.

Any opinions on that crappy looking filter coil? :(
Have you ohmed it? Prolly be a few hundred ohms if good. If there's no leakage to the frame, it may be OK.

Have you ohmed it? Prolly be a few hundred ohms if good. If there's no leakage to the frame, it may be OK.

53ohms, ish, I have not done a leakage test on it yet, I will when I remove it to try to coat the windings.

Maybe the collective wisdom on the group can say if the resistance sounds right. I don't recollect ever actually measuring a filter choke. They seemed to be among the least failure-prone components.

53 ohms sounds perfectly reasonable and it looks OK. Moisture, critters or time probably caused the paper covering to fall off.

I tried this several times but the original is so small and the print quality has reduced the definition of some of the component numbers. Possibly someone else has a better quality print in their Riders 6, but I suspect this happened when they reduced the original to fit the page space.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152661900@N02/albums/72177720324061767/

much better, i can see the numbers now! Thanks! :D

Well, If I do need peaking coils, this prob is the key! :D
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ltoAAOSwczZkHNLO/s-l1600.webp

more photos of the FBT area

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827a.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827b.jpg

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/flyback.jpg

took some measurements, perhaps its good, but the resistors are bad!
R225 is not there at all!
I'm not sure what the FBT should test at, so I hope it's OK! :D

but the wires are no good. falling apart!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251831.jpg

the chewed audio section.

Is that 6.5 Megaohms? If so, that's bad. Should be around 200-300 ohms

Is that 6.5 Megaohms? If so, that's bad. Should be around 200-300 ohms

i need a FBT then :( 320035-1

Thordarson FLY4

OK this is getting weirder

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/weird.jpg

I had a loose connection when I checked it

It tests at 24 ohms at 12uh. Good/ bad? not sure now

But HVO-5 is the right replacement

So, at this point I'm not sure if the original FBT is good / bad yet, but it's definitely ugly! ( insert 60s movie musical cue here)

The only reference spec I could find was for the replacement merit hvo-5, which may or may not be like the original part, bit confusing.

The fuse for it was NOT blown, that is at least a good sign.

Interesting but looks like you have your hands full. Got to post a picture of the screen when you get it up and running.

Replacement CRT ordered!

The ETF has 3 Merit HVO-5 listed. There's one on ebay but beware there are several cracks in the core. Must have been dropped a few times. At least you can see what it looks like.

The ETF has 3 Merit HVO-5 listed. There's one on ebay but beware there are several cracks in the core. Must have been dropped a few times. At least you can see what it looks like.

I saw that :tears:

If the original one doesn't work, will have to get one from ETF.

Starting Audio section now, it has been worked on before, not very well. :/

Starting to figure out the amp section on this set, as I mentioned, someone has been there before, bad soldering, leads too long, a 1m resistor with 1 end going nowhere, changes from the original design, and, why put in a .15uf cap where it should be .1uf? That has to have SOME impact on operation. :/

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0301251431a.jpg

AMP rework

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0301251434.jpg

FBT

It seems that ETM does not have any HVO-5 s in stick after all. :tears:
So if this is bad, it's gonna be a real pain
this this a maggie part?


Replacements are--
Thordarson FLY 4
Merit HVO-5
Stancor A8119
Triad D55
Ram X077

Status update.
Not much to report, did not have much time to work on it this weekend cause of computer problems (RAID-5 headache ).
16L/CP4 paid for, waiting shipment, (thanks ETF! :) )
Ordered the broken core HVO-5 seen on E-bay at discount, may give me a baseline to test what is in the set, not even sure if it's original. And if bad, perhaps with the 2, a good one could be made, failing that, there is a 3rd option.
Will soon start on the main electrolytic capacitors.
There are several candohm resistors mounted in the HV case not shown in the parts locator pages, this is most likely the bleeder network, will need close attention, as will the CRT anode wire that has broken off at the 1m resistor, which will need a new HV resistor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c


http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0307252316b.jpg

After replacing the main pi filter caps this week, I decided to risk powering it up slowly with 2 new 5U4GBs, and after a while when voltage seemed stable and one paper bomb exploded someplace, not sure where yet I decided to hook the scope up to G1 of the horizontal output tube, well one of the pairs...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmPhaG1ud38
:D :banana:
All the critical bits are working!
I can now move on to making it good as new!

Furthermore the broken core Merit hvo-5 came today, and my guess was right, it's physically identical to the FBT in the chassis now, meaning I can swap the broken bits from it to fix it, most likely Merit made this FBT for maggie in the first place.

new FBT vs the old..

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0309251302.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0309251304.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0309251303a.jpg

It's indeed a merit made unit!
i can swap the broken pats!

the wires in the HV cage is awful. falling apart, needs to be replaced. :tears:

Old windings vs new.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0309252037a.jpg

It's Frankenflyback!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0310252008a.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0310252008.jpg
:D

It's a small world. Here is a link to photos of my Britnay. Maybe some day I will get around to restoring it. Got it from someone in Minnesota about 10 years ago.

https://antiquetvguy.com/WebPages/TheSets/Menu-BW%20Sets/Images/BWSetsPhotoPages/MagnavoxBrittnayPhotoPage.html

I do have to wonder why they used 2 6BG6s in this version, and other versions have only 1, it's not a wimpy tube, (20 watts), does it use THAT MUCH power that they decided to 2x it to reduce the load on the tube?

That.s much better! :D :banana:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0312251534.jpg

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0312251535.jpg

Fresh NOS tube!

Some differences between the 16FP4 that was in there and the 16LP4A going in, aside from slight difference in deflection angle and the shape of the bell,which can be adjusted for, is that the 16L has aquadag coating where the 16F did not, also the 16L has a newer type anode connection than the 16F, which it no big deal because the HV line was trashed and had to be redone anyway.
And the final difference is that the 16F had a single pole ion trap where the 16L needs a dual, and I do have a NOS dual one that I hope will work, never used, not sure for what tube it was made for.
https://imgur.com/r3Yt9S5

There is an arrow on the top of it, I assume this points to the screen?

Had more time to get some work in on it tonight, replaced some paper caps checked resistors.

found some that were REALLY bad.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-bad.jpg

not sure how well this thing worked with the HOT g1 bias resistors way out of spec. both were about 230k

I also found what blew up when i did the power test, it was the across the line cap 183, no big deal!

I do have to wonder why they used 2 6BG6s in this version, and other versions have only 1, it's not a wimpy tube, (20 watts), does it use THAT MUCH power that they decided to 2x it to reduce the load on the tube?

If you look at RCA circuits at the time the 16" round CRTs showed up, they also used two 6BG6s and 1B3's. The thought must have been they were pushing the single output setup too hard while scanning that larger CRT. As flyback transformers improved in efficiency they went back to a single horizontal output. And soon after there were stronger horizontal output tubes.

Work is going ahead slowly.

horizontal oscillator seems to be fine, bit a bit low which makes sense sice the FB is not in yet for feedback for it yet. about 28v PtP. on the grids of the HOT.

The vertical oscillator is NOT running, and from what I see it can't If I understand things correctly, the OSC gets power ( T109, V16B) via boost through
r178 from pin one of the FBT, also goes to G2 of the CRT, filtered by C202B.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/no-vert-osc.jpg
So, if I understand this circuit correctly. long of the short of it is, until the FBT energies and that boost come up, the vertical oscillator won't start.

OK, now things are making sense here! :D:yes:

for the longest time. I could not work out where the horz osc circuit was getting power from when I was testing it!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-solved.jpg

the FBT is still not back in, nor is the fuse.

so where is that 6SN7GT getting bias from?:scratch2:

Then today. I changed all paper caps in the area, and DING! IT HAS STOPPED WORKING!
Bad caps!
:nono:
C186 was so leaky, that it was bleeding enough power to start the oscillator.

I did manage to confirm it, I bypassed things a bit so that line to the horizontal oscillator circuit would get power, and it came back good and strong at 40 PtP. :D
Not quite ready to put the FBT in yet, want to clean up the area a bit, and replace the crappy wires in there.

More things uncovered, the damper is DEAD, this thing must be hard on them new ones ordered.

Latest status update.
When I first got this set, the cover was off of the HV cage and the 2 HV rectifier tubes were out and set aside, indicating someone was trying to debug a HV problem and gave up and left it to sit for untold years.
This would not have mattered if it worked or not, since the 16FP4 was worn out and most likely could not show a picture anyway.

The flyback transformer was in a very questionable state, partially to exposure to the elements and the others due to age and the old wires to it being old and full of splices, the old one may or may not have been OK, but since I had a NOS one, why risk it.

With the flyback out, a test of the horizontal oscillator seemed OK, but a bit of a mystery because I was not sure where it was getting power from w/o the flyback in circuit, this turned out to be VERY leaky paper caps, that when replaced, the horizontal oscillator stopped.
A quick bypass of the area to power proved this, good strong horizontal oscillator.

So last night, I started to replace the FBT wiring with new 600v lines, staring with the #5 line to main bias, and #4 to the plate of the damper, link 4 & 5 together, and power up, then the horizontal oscillator SHOULD have started, this did not happen...
Odd, why?

Checked pin 5 of the 6W4GT, good positive voltage, then pin 3, cathode, negative 60v... that aint right!

Not right at all, grabbed the one other one in my hoffman set, BINGO, positive voltage on the cathode, and the horizontal oscillator started.

The bad 6W4GT is most likely the original cause of the HV problem with the set.
New one on the way, plus new 6GB6GTs.
In the meantime will replace the other FBT lines and get the new one in, and replace more caps.

It might be a bit silly looking once I get a raster/ picture up on this little test CRT! :D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0324252054.jpg

Things are a bit different from the schematic, which is not unusual.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-bad.jpg (re-using this picture)

C178 is not hooked as shown on the left of C185 but is on the right side, and the other is hooked to ground as for the EP4, R225 is testing at 1m I will assume its bad, as I cant read the bands on it, the 4.7 ohm ones test OK, but will be replaced anyway. the entire area was very dirty and needed lots of clean up

So when will we see the first picture

So when will we see the first picture

I'm still waiting for the new damper (6W4GT) + 2 new 6BG6GTs to show up, track SAYS Friday, but who believes USPS these days, the FBT hook up is almost complete, save for lines 2 & 3, the sockets for the 1B3GTs were cleaned as was the board they were mounted to, there is still some rust that I will cover with corona dope, the 3 500pf caps had some cracks in the surface and was coated with corona dope, the 3 resistors in the doubler circuit will be replaced tonight ( 2x 4.7 & 1.5m), I have a new 1m HV on the way, due here Fri, ( 588-MOX-2N-131004FE ) .

So, given that all parts come when they should and things go together well, I should be doing a HV power up this weekend, and if that works, a go for raster on the test CRT.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0327251948a.jpg

The HV doubler circuit before having the old resistors replaced, lot of bad solder work :(

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0327252050.jpg

new resistors in,, don't have the NEW HV 1m one yet.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0327251948a.jpg

The HV doubler circuit before having the old resistors replaced, lot of bad solder work :(

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0327252050.jpg

new resistors in,, don't have the NEW HV 1m one yet.

Yup that looks better

All HV parts are in now

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0328252209.jpg

Boy its crowded in there! :D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0329250310.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0329250315.jpg

gotta wait for the silicone to cure now.

Why did you use a special HV resistor? A regular one would be fine.

And Bon Scott of AC/DC spoke, " "l LET THERE BE HIGH VOLTAGE!!!! And thus it was commanded, and thus it was done! :banana: :yes:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0329251102.jpg

Turns out that both 1B3GTs were also dead, had new on hand, so no biggy.

Why did you use a special HV resistor? A regular one would be fine.

It most likely would have, but if you look at the pic of the old resistors, what was in there before was 2 rather large 500k resistors in series, that had broken, I had no ref to what size they were power or what, but I did not have anything near that size physically in my stocks, so if I was going to have to order something, I chose to spend the extra $ for a HV resistor.

Replacing a few more caps before i try to get a raster, now that HV is working.

this one was REALLY bad!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0331251435.jpg
tests at 68pf :O
slightly dif from what was shown in the schematic, C163 off the center of the vert center pot, but it being bad would no doubt had a drastic effect on the sweep.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/no-vert-osc.jpg

Recapping almost done!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0401252124a.jpg

not sure why that yellow cap was stuck in there :O

That extra sprague atom cap that someone put in there has me a bit confused as to why they did it, they put in that big yellow cap (40uf) in parallel with C200B, (30UF), which did not really test bad, 37uf, a bit leaky, both C200A C200B (30uf) are in the bleeder network, 200C (10uf) is in sweep tests at 14uf.

Why did they add the extra cap?:scratch2:

And there is Raster!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0405250052.jpg

No video yet...

but full sweep!

Dead IF it seems ...

more new tubes, and time to check resistors in the IF area, most likely all the cathode resistors are bad. Have seen this over and over!

Dead IF it seems ...

more new tubes, and time to check resistors in the IF area, most likely all the cathode resistors are bad. Have seen this over and over!

Do you mean cathode resistors in the IF tube strip.

Do you mean cathode resistors in the IF tube strip.

them. and all others. yes.

Well unless they are open, maybe, but even if they are 2-3x or more off a signal should still get through.

Looks as if someone has been there before. as the 3 39 ohm resistors have been changed, SOME of the 1ks have others not, checking come of the old ones they are testing as high as 1800.

The IF tubes are in an unknown state, no way to test, so got 4 new, (6AGS) and tuner tubes.
Did try to clean tuner.

Will replace weak resistors as I wait for new tubes.

Focus pot decided to arc out on me, dirt in solder lugs, had to scrape it out and coat with dope.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-IF.jpg

R162 =2K R140 1.6K

Still poking around.

So that and old/unknown tubes prob killed sensitivity.

new tubes = $24 with shipping

Another thing noticed :P The detector diode is shown backwards on the schematic, it;s anode to the 1st amp in the chassis, :o

Another thing noticed :P The detector diode is shown backwards on the schematic, it;s anode to the 1st amp in the chassis, :o

Maybe a typo in the schematic like the Motorola vt71 same thing backward diode shown in the sams.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-1st-amp.jpg

This 1st amp is a bit different from what I have seen before.
no direct positive power on the plate, seems to be driven from the -100 on the cathode, through the 10 ohm resistor (13 ohms OK) and up via r145 and L105. both OK. R154 goes to sync.

The Det diode is odd looking , Sylvania made 1n36.but has a fiberglass body with metal end caps, looks a lot like selenium rectifiers I have seen before. but a 1n36 can't be selenium... Just have not seen one like it before as a det. not sure if it's good or bad, not sure how to test it. it's acting weird.
I do have a 1n60.
In the meantime, if i were to feed a 2v wave from a generator to the grid of the 1st amp, if all is working to the screen I should get some kind of pattern on the screen, if I'm correct.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-1st-amp.jpg

This 1st amp is a bit different from what I have seen before.
no direct positive power on the plate, seems to be driven from the -100 on the cathode, through the 10 ohm resistor (13 ohms OK) and up via r145 and L105. both OK. R154 goes to sync.

The Det diode is odd looking , Sylvania made 1n36.but has a fiberglass body with metal end caps, looks a lot like selenium rectifiers I have seen before. but a 1n36 can't be selenium... Just have not seen one like it before as a det. not sure if it's good or bad, not sure how to test it. it's acting weird.
I do have a 1n60.
In the meantime, if i were to feed a 2v wave from a generator to the grid of the 1st amp, if all is working to the screen I should get some kind of pattern on the screen, if I'm correct.
If all is good further up the strip you won’t know it if the detector diode is bad.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0401252124a.jpg

you can see the diode in the upper right comer I never saw a germanium detector diode that looked like that before, weird.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0401252124a.jpg

you can see the diode in the upper right comer I never saw a germanium detector diode that looked like that before, weird.
I do believe I had one of those in one of my Motorola vt71 either way 1n34 or 1n60 any of those detectors should work or give you something

I did have a burnout when I did the raster test this weekend, the pair of resistors I had in for R255( 1.5m) overloaded and went up in smoke.
Seems I exceeded the voltage rating of the part and they could not take it, parts list just says HV resistor, no power rating, have 3 1w ones in there and they are holding, but getting quite warm.
Finding the right HV resistor in the right range is proving to be tricky, so I intend to something a bit silly ( overkill ), not silly if it works, right? :)

I'm getting a bunch of 300k 3w resistors, hook 5 in series, for 1.5m, since I'm not sure of the voltage or power rating of the original part, I'm sure this replacement string will far exceed the original part, and not fry again! :D

Unless what it’s powering or resisting is somewhat shorted or drawing way to much.

Unless what it’s powering or resisting is somewhat shorted or drawing way to much.

no short, it's just under a lot of HV stress, and I first tried to replace it with 2 1w normal resistors, and they could not take the voltage across them.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-solved.jpg R225
There is a lot of HV across it, so 5 normal resistors should do, as 3 seem to be OK, but a bit warm.

no short, it's just under a lot of HV stress, and I first tried to replace it with 2 1w normal resistors, and they could not take the voltage across them.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-solved.jpg R225
There is a lot of HV across it, so 5 normal resistors should do, as 3 seem to be OK, but a bit warm.

How much hv are you taking about ? So your putting in the equivalent to 5 watts, is this anode or focus voltage 5 watts seem like a lot of wattage to keep something happy. What did the old one look like as far as wattage. And the schematic didn’t show that resistor that was in there ?

I assume there is 5,000 VAC or more across that resistor.

Standard resistor voltage ratings are as follows
1/2W = 350v
1W = 500v
2W = 750V

5 normal resistors is not enough voltage rating.
I suggest using Vishay VR68 resistors. 10,000 volt rated 1W.

What about doing something with focus stick resistors

I assume there is 5,000 VAC or more across that resistor.

Standard resistor voltage ratings are as follows
1/2W = 350v
1W = 500v
2W = 750V

5 normal resistors is not enough voltage rating.
I suggest using Vishay VR68 resistors. 10,000 volt rated 1W.

TKS, That is what I was looking for, but was unable to find in all of the types they have to order.

On the way from Mouser.

VR68000001504JAC00
As always the shipping costs more than the part.

"What did the old one look like as far as wattage. And the schematic didn’t show that resistor that was in there ? "

The old one looked like a 50s-60s 1w part, but the bands were dark and not readable, tested at about 1m, schematic says 1.5, parts list only says (1.5m HV resistor 1w).

TKS, That is what I was looking for, but was unable to find in all of the types they have to order.

On the way from Mouser.

VR68000001504JAC00
As always the shipping costs more than the part.

"What did the old one look like as far as wattage. And the schematic didn’t show that resistor that was in there ? "

The old one looked like a 50s-60s 1w part, but the bands were dark and not readable, tested at about 1m, schematic says 1.5, parts list only says (1.5m HV resistor 1w).
And the correct one was not shown in the schematic, that’s odd

And the correct one was not shown in the schematic, that’s odd

It is, just very little info about it, it's there between the 2 1B3GTs.

It is, just very little info about it, it's there between the 2 1B3GTs.

Yes I see it but the sams gave no more info about that specific resistor

Still stuck waiting for the new front end tubes, USPS said they were due today, but they love to lie about such things, they have become very unreliable, no tracking update since Wed.

The new 1.5 meg resistor is here, came in 1 day from Dallas, focus pot is fixed, not put back in yet.
Not much to do till the tubes get here. :no:

focus pot crapped out and shorted again, real bad this time. no fixing it.
took out the 560 resistor hooked to it.

now i have to find some kind of replacement

hoping this will work
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/CU2521E?qs=pxoIv4zTX%2F%2FCN4xwdajXYA%3D%3D
original was wire wound 2.2k 2w 500v should be enough even if it's carbon.

not sure what size this 560 was
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0412250133a.jpg

3w? 4w?
just know the place still smells from it! :tears:

edit

$0.92 for 279-ROX5SSJ560R a 5w 500v resistor, cant go wrong with that, now if the pot will work... :)

found out why the brightness is not working...

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-bright.jpg

R217 is at 93k and 152 is 70k both gotta go,

the pot is OK
at first I thought it may be the 8YP4 not liking the setup, but with the bad resistors, it's being driven full on.

new tubes due today, so says USPS

And if i hear nothing negative about it, will order the new focus pot Monday $27 OUCH!

the failed Focus pot, and a very rusty focus coil that still checks OK that i WON'T soak in evapo rust! :D TEASE! TEASE!
the isolation of the pot has arced trough and can't be fixed. :tears:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0412251716.jpg
as for the focus coil. it seems OK, but very rusty when i removed it from the yoke, i found the same that many others have found, that the plastic parts have turned to dust,

What's wrong with soaking ;)

Brightness parts fixed, mew tubes in

Get a faint image on screen now, very faint, Det diode may be weak.

Cant get horz lock hod pot does little horz lock tune cap does not help.

suspect that it's off freq.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0413250136.jpg
I could never do the math for this to convert to HZ, but I think it's too high
like 17-18hz MORE bad resistors perhaps?

Yes, looks like around 17kHz. It will be an LC tank circuit that sets the frequency. Could be a mica cap is off.

Checked the resistors on the osc coil they seemed OK did not check ALL others on the area.
There is no instructions on how to set this horizontal oscillator circuit, several paper caps have been replaced that were leaky so I suspect the circuit was adjusted to work with them as they went bad, and thus it is running too fast now.

There is a variable cap ( horizontal lock) on the grid of the horizontal AFC that seemed to do something but not enough, and a ferrite ( horizontal speed) on the back of the osc coil that I did not try to adjust yet, also an UN-named adjustment in front of the osc under the chassis.

It looks like its trying to lock, but the frequency is too far off

Yes, looks like around 17kHz. It will be an LC tank circuit that sets the frequency. Could be a mica cap is off.

yes, there is mica domino capacitors in the circuit that have not been replaced.

guess i will order them with the new focus parts

Adjust horizontal speed - that sets the frequency

Adjust horizontal speed - that sets the frequency

That's what I thought i might be, but was not sure, no idea why they picked Horizontal Speed over Horizontal freq, I guess that they decided that frequency was not vague enough, and decided to make it a bit more confusing!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-horz.jpg
It looked like that adjustment was turned all the way, or almost, all the way out, have not tried turning it in yet.

Focus parts are ordered, as is 2 mica caps, 5pf and 330pf, may end up not needing them, if i can tune this in, but since I was spending the money for shipping, I got them anyway.

Still not sure about the old det diode, it SORT of tests like a diode with a digital meter, but the fancy all in one digital tester can't ID it as anything (cap/resistor/diode/transistor/ETC) checker. where it has no problem testing the new 1n60, so I suspect the old diode may be leaking/ breaking down.

Good ahead and adjust it. You're not going to hurt anything. Looks like a class synchro-guide oscillator.
BTW don't mess with the 100K temp comp resistor if you don't need to. It is designed to change value with temperature to keep the oscillator from drifting.

Good ahead and adjust it. You're not going to hurt anything. Looks like a class synchro-guide oscillator.
BTW don't mess with the 100K temp comp resistor if you don't need to. It is designed to change value with temperature to keep the oscillator from drifting.

yeah, I left it alone, it was easy to ID, it was that strange part stuck in there wrapped in 50+ year old shrink wrap tubing, there was a 3rd domino mica cap in there that I did not order, that was not shown on the schematic, hooked in direct parallel with the variable cap for horz lock, it's ALMOST, but not quite too discolored to read the value dots on it!
But this one did not seem as critical as the 2 that were ordered.

another problem found!

!st video amp is dead!

i got a signal in. almost nothing out.
IF is mostly working , sync is trying to lock but has little to grab on to.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-1st-amp.jpg
found another bum resistor.
R145 = 9.2k it has to go!

no wonder the 1st amp id dead, ANOTHER bad resistor...
R141 = 9.5k
but 143 is fine.

looks like each stage will be a fight.

no wonder the 1st amp id dead, ANOTHER bad resistor...
R141 = 9.5k
but 143 is fine.

looks like each stage will be a fight.

Boy that set has a lot going on sounds like something I would get into 😂

I hope you're right, but usually unless a resistor is open or shorted it can be way off and a circuit will still pass a signal.

I GOT IT! I GOT IT!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0417251400.mp4

seems there was also a voltage problem -100 was down to -13, something shorted, 50 ohms to ground, was not there before.
did not take long to find, something on the audio amp sub chassis, unplugged it, and -100 came right back up, and 1st amp came to life.

just have to find what failed on the amp later.

the sound heard is as always is the fans of my servers.

BTW, that rusty focus coil and the new pot and power resistor is working very well, creating a good strong field, it grabbed that little screwdriver very well when on, and let go when I shut it off! :D

Awesome!

AGC also works when adjusted. :D

the noisy picture is most likely due to the HV area not being enclosed yet, there WAS shielding on the original HV anode wire, not sure how much that mattered.

As mentioned, the HV cage is still all open, and is most likely spewing out RF interference, however when I got it, the top cover was missing and is most likely gone forever, so I have ordered a 11.5 x 11.5 Perforated Metal Sheet to try to shape a replacement, also a 80mm AC fan to place on top to keep the FBT cool, at first I was planning to replace / relocate the bleeder network ( candohm resistors), but so far it seems they are holding up very well, even after the -100 short, so I'm tempted to leave them for now and just keep em cool.

As mentioned, the HV cage is still all open, and is most likely spewing out RF interference, ...

Could you temporarily fabricate a piece of aluminum foil into a "cage" to see if that stops the garbage? (Carefully, of course!)

That really shouldn't be a problem. There are plenty of chassis that have a bare flyback on them. The HV cover is there to protect from HV not RF shielding. It's the RF type HV coils used in electrostatic sets that are a problem.

Well, LOOONG ago with my FADA, EM said about the same sort of thing,
" Is the HV cage cover, tube shields and any other factory shielding all properly in place as far as you can tell? Sometimes when a shield is missing it causes issues. "

The few tube shields are on, but the cage is still in pieces.
not sure where all the noise is from, but this WAS the first test, the twin lead on the tuner is crap, which will be replaced with a matching balun hooked direct to the tuner, and there is also 2 computers in the room just a few feet from the test setup.
over the next few days I hope to close the case and hook up the balun directly and hope to get better results, cause if the IF is out of alignment, it is really gonna suck as there is no instructions to do it.

Usually the factory shields matter. Depends on how good the engineers and bean counters were, and the standards of performance. There are cases where a tube or HV shield missing may not be noticeable and there are cases where it might be very noticeable. If you're chasing a noise issue it's a good idea to try to replace missing factory shields as a sanity check (even if you gotta wrap a tube in aluminum foil or put a soup or coffee can over something before spending too much time troubleshooting.
I've seen sets where lack of HV shielding wasn't noticable and sets where it is... usually but not always when lack of shielding is noticable there's some corona or mild arcing somewhere.

That's why I wonder about the original shielded anode wire, and if i will have to try to shield the new one somehow, perhaps with copper foil or something.

If the HV filters are good the anode lead will be no issue. From the video you posted it doesn't seem that snowy. It looks like low contrast, which could be from the room lights. It's possible it will get better when you use the intended CRT.

If the HV filters are good the anode lead will be no issue. From the video you posted it doesn't seem that snowy. It looks like low contrast, which could be from the room lights. It's possible it will get better when you use the intended CRT.

The contrast got much better when I cranked up the AGC, almost too high, and yes, as before with the FADA, the 8YP4 does work, but not very well, the smearing will go away when I switch to the 16 inch tube.

This is the first TV this old type,(Roundie) that I have had with true AGC, and it's really temperamental, as in, it has a “sweet spot” too low and it washes out, too high, and it looses sync.
I'm guessing that this is normal behavior for this set.

What was the year of manufacture?

Oh, BTW...

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0423251908.jpg

If I read that right, Nov, 25th, 1949! :D

As old as my FADA!

And we have sound! :banana:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0424251901.mp4

And a LOT of buzz!

audio discriminator needs tweaking.

Just for the heck of it, roll the vertical and and see if that buzz changes pitch.

Just for the heck of it, roll the vertical and and see if that buzz changes pitch.

No change,, its from the video itself. this set is like the RCA 630ts when it comes to sound, Split at the tuner, NOT a intercarrier set, at least the sound and video matches when tuned, just a lot of buzz

any attempted adjustment is gonna be a pain however.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-sound.jpg
as T103 is one of those that has both top and bottom adjustments, the top is easy to get to, but not the one on the bottom without propping up the chassis and powering it up.

ONLY the sound discriminator should need tweaking, the IF 1/2 seems OK

Some sets had top slugs with a hole down through the center, so you could dip the alignment tool down through to engage the lower slug. Although this might be to early for that feature.

Some sets had top slugs with a hole down through the center, so you could dip the alignment tool down through to engage the lower slug. Although this might be to early for that feature.

unfortunately, it's the early type with the little screws sticking out each end.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0503250034.mp4

looking and sounding a lot better!

almost ready to try it with the big tube.
but will have to do something about the rust on the focus coil and the plastic parts of the yoke that have fallen apart, not sure what to do about that, seem to have read that some have made replacement from odd lids and stuff,

I had to make some plastic pieces for this cbs Columbia yoke also all you need is an imaginative mind and you will come up with something that will work. Hot glue works great on plastic.

Cover for HV box made..

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0508251932.jpg

And this is the only other dual ion trap I have,
It's an after market one, not sure which way it goes
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0508252006.jpg
I assume arrow to the screen?

Did a longevity test today, ran it for over am hour, no major issues, had to tweak the horz (lock) a bit as it got warm.
still has the hot tube smell.

Focus coil gets a bit warm to the touch.

some cabinet work

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0516252227.jpg

top looks much better, from something left in a barn /garage, exposed to elements and chewed on by squirrels, dull, dirty, dingy.
it will never be perfect, but it's better.

:tears:

This silly FBT has started to arc to the outside core, and it;s hard getting to stop.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0309252037a.jpg

some of the thin wax is already gone, you can see where part was chipped away, i tried putting corona dope all over it, but it takes forever to cure, held for a little wile, and shorted again.

put more on gonna wait 1 day and put silicone on top of that, and see if that stops it.
THIS stuff...
https://tinyurl.com/2udek4h6

Its a mess in there now. :tears:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0518251300a.jpg
but I think the coils are OK

it was arcing at the very top to the frame
the stuff it almost dry, have to push the heater wires aside to see it clearly
silicone will be here Mon, will fill in the gap when i get it.

Get some HV putty. Handy for eliminating corona ASAP.

https://www.gcelectronics.com/product/10-8880

Get some HV putty. Handy for eliminating corona ASAP.

https://www.gcelectronics.com/product/10-8880

Yes that is one way, but so is the stuff that should be here Monday.
https://evoralight.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Silicone-Sealant-Spec-Sheet.pdf
It has a better dielectric rating than Corona dope, 18kv per mm, we have used stuff like it at work before, so I knew to look for it.

Just have to wait a day or so for it to cure, and for sure it's NOT the type that smells like vinegar! :no:

And of course, when it comes to something critical, you simply can't depend on Amazon for $hit, somehow I knew they would screw up the order of this special silicon.


12:00 PM
Package delayed in transit
5:48 AM
Package left an Amazon facility.
Haslet, TX US
12:11 AM
Package arrived at an Amazon facility.
Haslet, TX US
Sunday, May 18
4:32 PM
Package left an Amazon facility.
Portland, OR US

Haslet, TX -> Austin
3h 14m (206 mi)
Now they Can't tell me where it is? WTF Amazon...:thumbsdn:

While i wait for the Idiots at Amazon to get me my Silicone, i will do what i can with the cabinet, it will never be perfect, but a LOT better than it was!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0519251910.jpg

I do have to wonder, if I should be running 1 HOTs rather than 2, as it says on the tube chart, if a 16AP4 is used, to remove 1 and hook both leads to the plate of the one tube, I assume cause the 16AP4 is a 53 deg tube, and use dual for 16EP4, which is 60 deg, it had a dud 16FP4 in it at 62 deg, which is being replaced by a slightly longer 16LP4 which is 52 deg, so, does this mean I need only 1 output?

I don't think it will be able to jump that gap again!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0520251839.jpg

looks like crap though! but it was made from 2 broken transformers. :tears:

If this flyback transformer patch does not work, or fails again, I have found a way around it, but it would doing a “Shango066” with it, I have found a RAM type FBT made for RCA 630 circuits, 13kv output like this needs, but w/o the voltage doubler, b+ is the same, boost is slightly higher 510 vs 500, very close.

Ran it for about 15 min, no smoke, no fire, no arcing, so far so good! :D :banana:

Fingers crossed :D

I Did order a NOS RAM X032, just in case, the one i have failed, not quite the right one, but I cant find a X077, this can be made to work in a bind.

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/ram_cross_reference.pdf

Ran OK for about an hour last night, no major issues seen, the FBT is getting a bit warm, i guess that they are driving it hard, not to mention there are 5 tubes around it, gonna try some small heat sinks on it and a bigger fan.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0527252003.jpg

So, perhaps this and a big fan will help it keep cooler? a bit perhaps. :P

Why put a fan that was never intended for some things I was told with the old sets that they are supposed to get hot to work right. A fan to cool a hot flyback I don’t think that would be much help since the heat comes from within the depths of the flyback. I guess a type of shield to keep tube heat away would help.

I tend to think that this was a foolish design from Magnavox in the first place, not well thought out for longevity, 2 horizontal output tubes, 2 HV rect tubes, 3 candohm resistors and a FBT crammed into one metal box, it's asking for things to fail, I'm pretty sure that the flyback transformer that was in there when I got it was not the original, it's been replaced before, and the one I took out looked very toasty, and replacements are very hard to find, so like my other sets, I will take steps to keep it as cool as I can.

Why put a fan that was never intended for some things I was told with the old sets that they are supposed to get hot to work right. A fan to cool a hot flyback I don’t think that would be much help since the heat comes from within the depths of the flyback. I guess a type of shield to keep tube heat away would help.

Flybacks are not supposed to run warmer than bath water. If they do either something in the circuit needs attention or extra cooling is necessary. Sweep circuits don't need to be hot to work. The tuner and IF might as the caps are sometimes temperature dependent for exact value for proper alignment behavior.

Flybacks are not supposed to run warmer than bath water. If they do either something in the circuit needs attention or extra cooling is necessary. Sweep circuits don't need to be hot to work. The tuner and IF might as the caps are sometimes temperature dependent for exact value for proper alignment behavior.

Exactly, I don't like how warm it's getting, and don't see anything circuit wise that could be pushing it so hard, everything is new, other than dropping to one HOT, than 2, perhaps that will cool it down a bit?

If it works on one tube, the cathode current isn't beyond specs for the tube, and it doesn't somehow run the flyback hotter it's probably fine. It can't hurt to try...If one tube has a sudden failure the same condition would exist so the designers should have at least considered the probability of it happening.

If it works on one tube, the cathode current isn't beyond specs for the tube, and it doesn't somehow run the flyback hotter it's probably fine. It can't hurt to try...If one tube has a sudden failure the same condition would exist so the designers should have at least considered the probability of it happening.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0528252248_Burst01.jpg
It does say to use one tube for the AP4 and 2 for the EP4, and I did get it with FP4 but am putting in a LP4 that has an angle closer to the AP4, so I guess the dual is not needed, but if it means the FBT will be cooler... who knows.

I'm starting to thing that this silly thing just runs the FBT hot, and they knew it when they made the set.
Like see the pic of the old one.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827b.jpg

they had it bolted to that copper plate, that was not for ground, or mounting, it was to cool the damn thing off!
and even so, it still got toasted!

I'm gonna put a big Vantec 80mm Tornado Case Fan on that thing!

I did try it on one tube over the weekend, it SORT of worked, but did not like it, it was unstable, would lose h-sync when power cycled, much more stable with both tubes, comes up with lock each time.

Still don't like how hot the FBT gets, but at this point, there is not much more I can do about it, as it seems to be the way it was made, I will attempt to put some heat sink paste between the FBT and the large copper plate they have there for cooling which I hope will pull the heat away a bit better, there was nothing originally, this plus a massive case fan will hopefully keep it from frying.

The focus coil also gets rather warm, this I'm guessing is normal as they had a 5w 560 ohm resistor and 5w wire wound 2.2k pot in the circuit, both of which fried when the pot failed and shorted to gnd, I could not find a suitable 2.2k pot in the right power range, so I got a 5k 5w wire wound, this should not be a problem as only one end and the center is used, and the 16LP4 uses a bit less focus current than the 16FP4 that was in there, so the extra range won't hurt, 146ma vs 110ma, I still have to clean the rust off the focus coil and fix the disintegrated covers on the yoke.

Overall, I'm impressed with the level of detail I'm seeing in the video on the 8YP4, even though it's not a good match to the set, and it's smearing, it means the IF is pretty good, and so is the video sections.

When it's possible, I've been trying to install a 120V silent cooling fan in all of my TV restorations. Not specifically to solve a rogue heat problem but just as an attempt to extend longevity of those unobtanium parts that will fail someday. Heat is the #1 enemy of these old electronics. Case in point, my Admiral Bakelite R2D2 floor model has a space under the chassis where I mounted a 4" silent cooling fan that's tied into the on/off switch. I can feel the lukewarm air coming up out of the perforated metal back of the TV. Maybe it won't make any difference but I feel better about reliability with it there.

Is not a bad idea. Will not harm and useful lifetime will be indeed higher.

I have a 120mm ac fan that I will put in place of the HV cover, it should fit rather well, it will be heard, but blow a good amount of filtered air on the flyback.
This is for sure one of those "What were they thinking?!?" moments for Magnavox, as they knew there was a stress,heat problem and their fis was to mount it on the copper plate.

I use fans too on some sets (rare and high use models mostly) if a set uses a power transformer and it doesn't run hot I'll usually use a 12VDC fan and rectify the heaters for 6.3VDC (or if I think I need really strong wind I'll use a double circuit. 6.3V tends to quiet cheap fans and still move enough air to be useful.

Ymmv.

I recommend a 4 inch muffin fan, a 240 volt AC model,
run on 117 VAC. Plenty of air for a TV, no noise.

And I'd use a ball bearing fan rather than a sleeve fan.

And I'd use a ball bearing fan rather than a sleeve fan.

I have one of these, and they are unstoppable :D
https://www.newegg.com/p/1YF-003V-003N5?srsltid=AfmBOoq1IcEjoIw-5RbQV7MkbBBW6PAsMrH1OFxCov1BDJyY0Bp4jbaH !

:tears:

Disaster..

the Flyback went up in smoke today. DEAD

I have no choice now but to try the RAM FBT
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ramfbt.jpg

making this work in the place of this.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/hvo-5.jpg
As there is no correct replacements.

I can find no real reason for why it burned other than it may have been damaged when it was dropped.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-bad.jpg re-using old pic again

looking for missed bad parts again i am not finding any smoking guns, r185/185 are a bit off not bu much they are 20% parts one tests 112 the other 115, i left them in, those can't be the cause, cathode resistors are perfect.
tubes never showed any signs of stress.

I have no idea why point 1-2 burned up 2-3 is fine 4-5-6 is perfect, just 1-2-3 is toasted.
perhaps it did not like being run on 2 tubes?
any ideas?
When i do try this other FBT, i will most likely ignore the pin 4 on it and use pin 7 as if it was #4 , bypass the voltage doubler circuit, as it already puts out 13kv w/o it.

paperwork
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0603252258.jpg

I have one of these, and they are unstoppable :D
https://www.newegg.com/p/1YF-003V-003N5?srsltid=AfmBOoq1IcEjoIw-5RbQV7MkbBBW6PAsMrH1OFxCov1BDJyY0Bp4jbaH !

Bookmarked! That looks like a really nice unit. I plan to pick one up to try in one of my Predictas

been going over it again and again, can't really see a reason why it fried... the ,25 cap on the cathode of the HOT was replaced before i got it with an orange drop, the 100 ohm is perfect in spec, makes little sense.

Good or bad, perhaps the flyback failed by it's own.... I watched it several times with various TV's.

So now I'm stuck with trying a flyback transformer that's alien to the set, ram x032 and sort of a match, OR, trying something really crazy and Frankenstein like...

Before I try the RAM-X32 in there, i am going over things again, not finding much.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0604252130.jpg

As i said the grid resistors which were 20% were just in spec, r184/185 getting new, cathode resistors tested perfect,, gonna replace all 4 with 1%. the cap on the cathode .25 they almost never go bad, right? gonna replace it anyway and the other one there like it, r199 looks like crap but tests at 9.6k well within 20% for a 10k, but it get replaced too.
Again, no smoking gun for why the FBT blew. :tears::no:

Mouser is about to ship the parts, as always shipping is almost half the cost, THIS TIME I will rig it only with one horizontal output configuration, the 6BG6 is a 20w tube, more than enough for the 52 degrees of the 16LP4, perhaps the dual mode was too much for the Merit HVO-5, and it had a fit and melted down or something, not sure what the total power in dual mode would be, 30-35w?
The OEM flyback did seem to built a bit more robust, so who knows, when it was working with the HVO-5 it seemed to work really well, till it caught fire!!:tears::yikes:

However, the the X032 seems very flexable, says will work with one 6BG6, and 13kv out with one 1B3GT.

OMG I'm so sorry to hear that! Power transformers, yokes, flybacks and tuners are my top dreads for failures. Best of luck with the replacement.

So now I'm stuck with trying a flyback transformer that's alien to the set, ram x032 and sort of a match, OR, trying something really crazy and Frankenstein like...

Did you check the list of spares harvested on the ETF website? I actually found an RCA VOT there that was the same part number as the one that failed on me.

been looking weekly, they seem to be out of compatible ones.

I will post pics and resistance readings of all 3 flybacks tonight, the OEM (with the corroded eyelets ) , fried HVO-5 and RAM X032.

OK
first the OEM
that was in BAD shape, you can see the corroded wires and contacts, which prompted me to replace it.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0605251956.jpg

readings

1-2 39.5 ohms
2-3 23 ohms
6-5 0.6 ohms
5-4 6.9 ohms

the dead hvo-5
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0605251957.jpg
it seems to have thinner wires than the OEM for 1-2, perhaps that;s why it burned?
readings.
1-2 1.8k OUCH!
2-3 40 OHMS
6-5 .0.6 ohms
5-4 6.8 ohms

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0605251958.jpg
RAM 0x32
1-2 36 ohms
2-3 317 ohms not surprising since its a 13-14k, output.
5-4 0.6 ohms
5-4 6.4 ohms
5-7 9.3 ohms
one note. the heater for the HV rect has only one turn where the others have 2 , this will have to be changed.
with all this, I do think this will work, unless someone else sees something i have not.

More complicated will be the issue of proper matching with the yoke. They interact in final image width and linearity. Some are sensitive and affects the HV level due to dependence of the yoke load/resonance.

More complicated will be the issue of proper matching with the yoke. They interact in final image width and linearity. Some are sensitive and affects the HV level due to dependence of the yoke load/resonance.

no problem! :D
the maggie yoke is 360330-7 which the RAM replacement is Y70F08, which is the one it says to use with this flyback, so it should be OK.

I would not add another loop for the HV rectifier filament. If there's enough power going though it to produce the proper deflection and HV, the filament voltage/current will be correct.
All the B&W rectifier tubes use the same filament power. 1.25v @ 0.2A.

I would not add another loop for the HV rectifier filament. If there's enough power going though it to produce the proper deflection and HV, the filament voltage/current will be correct.
All the B&W rectifier tubes use the same filament power. 1.25v @ 0.2A.

should i remove the 4.7 ohm resistor or leave it in line?

no problem! :D
the maggie yoke is 360330-7 which the RAM replacement is Y70F08, which is the one it says to use with this flyback, so it should be OK.

Perfect! :banana:

should i remove the 4.7 ohm resistor or leave it in line?

Always using an inline resistor for current limiting. Typically, they are 3.3 - 4.7 ohms.

Always using an inline resistor for current limiting. Typically, they are 3.3 - 4.7 ohms.

Tks, :D

I was not sure, as the paperwork that came with the RAM showing the "typical circuit" had no resistor, it also shows the damper plate hooked to P7 and yoke H to P4, but I will hook both to P4 in this case as it originally was wired OEM.

Worst case you can use a solid state HV rectifier diode

Such as a NTE508...
thought of that.
tried one in my CTC 16XL and it went FOOM.

but this will be at much less voltage and load, perhaps it will hold up and w/o the heater, it's less load on things, just a wee bit.

Rated for 45,000 volts and 110mA peak/5mA average current! No way it should have crapped out.

I agree, it should not have blown, but after 20 min of run time, the screen dimmed, and shrank horizontally, i shut down and it was burning hot to the touch, changed back to a glass 3CA3 and it's been OK for years.

Weird. :scratch2:

even stranger, the same thing happened to Shango when he tried one in a color RCA set, it lasted a bit longer, but it also got super hot and lost brightness ans shrank.

I just ordered on for this set, it will be running 10kv less at least, with no shunt loading it down, so it better not blow this time!

I wonder if they are selenium rectifiers? Their internal resistance goes up over time and they start running warmer and warmer until poof!

I wonder if they are selenium rectifiers? Their internal resistance goes up over time and they start running warmer and warmer until poof!

It does say silicon, but who knows shat is in the thing.

some of the new parts are in.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0607252319.jpg

not sure if those caps are gonna change anything, prob was a waste of time/ $$$ as mentioned, the drop type almost never go bad.
The 2 100 ohm grid resistors, perhaps, out of circuit,one was 112 and the other 120, but as far as i know they can't cause much of a problem , not as much as the cathode resistors which where OK.

Poked around the sync area, and found the schematic to be completely wrong!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/sync-wrong.jpg
checking resistors in the area, i saw that there was more then shown on the diagrams.
and looking at the schematic it hit me, WHERE IS THE sync leveler getting power from? :scratch2:

Poking around for a while, I find that the plate P5 is tied to ground, and the cathode to -100 via a resistor. same for the grid, very diff from what is seen on the schematic .

Curious why you haven't replaced the two old red capacitors near the bottom of the photo. They appear to be paper caps inside a plastic housing.

Curious why you haven't replaced the two old red capacitors near the bottom of the photo. They appear to be paper caps inside a plastic housing.

Those 2 really looked they had been replaced before, a lot has been, they had solder that looked not original. and I was not familiar with those cap types.

will change them now.

one is a .01 UF replacing with same, film type 1kv rated. the other is .002, putting in a .0022 600v film cap.

new caps are in.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0608251807.jpg

the old ones did not test that far off, but I dont have a vintage tester to push them up to the rated voltage, so they may have been leaking.

but I did not like how whoever pit that one in with the almost 1 inch leads uncovered.
i did fix that!

I have seen your K9 helper many times in your videos, bandersen! :D
Here is MY helper!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0608251806.jpg

Not really finding other bad resistors, other than that pair of 100 ohm ones that was on the 2 grids, strange how loading works the 100s were small 1/2 watts put in 2s, but the resistor they were linked to was a 10w 10k monster, which is OK seen in the photos easy to make out.

I bet your helper gets into all sorts of trouble in the workshop :D

I bet your helper gets into all sorts of trouble in the workshop :D

He's a big softie, he IS a brat, a huge brat, that's his name,
きょだい (Kyodai,adj-na,n) huge, gigantic, enormous, 【わるがき】 Warugaki Hungry Brat. :D

OK. I did find another really bad resistor!

I should have known! they are always bad!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/OK-diff.jpg

92k :thumbsdn:
Also, it's not wired as shown, it's hooked to the lin coil pin 3.

The new NEW FBT is wired in, mostly, not bolted in yet.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0611251142.jpg

I dont have the solid tube yet so i can't test yet, have to extend some wires cause the lugs are in dif places.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0611251144.jpg

have to do something about that yoke :/

Why not try it with a tube HV rectifier?

I've started using a 3-D printer to make parts for these TVs that you can't find unless you buy a donor set. I have a 14" Admiral where the yoke plastic cover crumbled and turned to dust and the magnetic rings for adjusting the image centering were hanging loose on the neck of the 14RP4. After lots of trial and error, I printed a cylinder large enough to cover the yoke, a disk with a centered hole the size of the neck and a T-ring as separates, glued them together and it fits perfectly and, although it doesn't look original, it works perfectly. Fusion 360 is not user friendly but there are tutorials out there and I found them very helpful.

Why not try it with a tube HV rectifier?

yeah, I might try that.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0611252025.jpg

the solid one is on the way, 2-3 days.

I will give the silicone at least a day before i try to put power to it.
the heater wire (white) too short, so I put in the 24kv line I had, and kept it one turn as it was when it came,
the eyelets on the FBT are not threaded, like on the others, may use rivets to put it in.

It's alive!
again!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0614252059b.jpg

Running on one output and with the RAM FBT!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0614252059c.jpg

Luvverly!

Luvverly!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/eliza3.jpg

Come on, Dover! Move your bloomin' arse! :D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/eliza3.jpg

Come on, Dover! Move your bloomin' arse! :D

Good one...

The stupid focus potentiometer fried again, and smoked the new 560 ohm resistor that was feeding it, both being rated at 500v 5w, this happened as soon as it was mounted back to the chassis and it's ground, it had been working fine all this time out in the open, not sure why it did this, the 560 ohm resistor is hooked to the main filter choke through the H & V centering pots, (30 ohms), seems that the entire LV bias is fed through the centering pots, sort of like the early RCA sets, then the focus coil (409 ohms) / focus potentiometer & resistor then to the voltage divider network.

The only difference I see from this set and early RCAs is that RCA had the focus circuit in series with the -100v line, and this has it in series with the +250v line, other than that, they seem the same.

Since I can't get an original OEM pot, I guess I will have to keep the focus pot isolated from the chassis, and mount is elsewhere, not sure why it burned through the dielectric of the pot again, it's not like it is being hit by huge voltages or something. :/

old CRT wiring...

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0616251826.jpg

vs the new.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0617251947.jpg

took me a bit longer to finish as the nylon wrap was delayed, :(

Very nice buddy!!!

Thank you for sharing this :)

Ran for over an hour last night, no smoke or fire, FBT gets a bit warm, but no dripping wax , so far.

Running OK with one output tube, the h-sync system on this seems to be VERY picky, wanting to lose lock when shut off and on, this seems to have been very common as it looks like the “ horizontal speed” slug had been turned very VERY often before I even go it, not sure how to get this more stable, though it SEEMS to be rather locked now, only time will tell.

Not sure what else to hit with this silly set, all the paper bombs are replaced, resistors are in spec, only thing left are the mica caps in the area, but, they rarely go bad, right?
I don't want to mess with them if i don't have to.

Sweep micas do fail (in electrostatic deflection sets they're almost a must replace proposition) and they aren't critical to alignment so they're worth replacing if you can't test them to their ratings and everything else has been verified.

Well it seems stable at the moment.

But it has 5 of the old domino type mica caps in the area.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/magie-mica.jpg
2 of which I ordered, but not put in yet.
mouser-
598-CD15CD050DO3F
598-CD19FD331FO3

To replace or not to replace, thus is the question! :D

Well it seems stable at the moment.

But it has 5 of the old domino type mica caps in the area.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/magie-mica.jpg
2 of which I ordered, but not put in yet.
mouser-
598-CD15CD050DO3F
598-CD19FD331FO3

To replace or not to replace, thus is the question! :D
In the sweep I would replace them for sure they do take a beating.

ordered and about to ship.

Mouser parts.

5982-15-500V180
598-CD17FD101JO3F
598-CD19FD182JO3F

to go with the ones i have.
598-CD15CD050DO3F
598-CD19FD331FO3

:scratch2:
These Mica caps sure are $$$ compared to film types. :O

In oscillator places is good to maintain same dieletric due to tempco, or oscillator will drift distinctly than the original one.
EDIT: that said, some are non-critical ones and not suffer from change.

ordered and about to ship.

Mouser parts.

5982-15-500V180
598-CD17FD101JO3F
598-CD19FD182JO3F

to go with the ones i have.
598-CD15CD050DO3F
598-CD19FD331FO3

:scratch2:
These Mica caps sure are $$$ compared to film types. :O

In sweep circuits you can usually get away with C0G ceramics in place of micas. If there's a published or readable temp coeff for the original matching that is probably best.

In sweep circuits you can usually get away with C0G ceramics in place of micas. If there's a published or readable temp coeff for the original matching that is probably best.

I can't really tell what they have in there, other than the parts list says the value and 500v, thus I picked 5% parts, which are most likely better than what is in there, the dots on the old caps are so faded, they are almost unreadable.

I assume this is the 180pf cap?
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0624252143.jpg

I never could work out how to decode these dots on these things! :tears:

Looks like 82pF

Meaning I got the wrong cap, as the documentation / schematic is radically different from the set.
Not sure if I should even touch the area.

This is getting very frustrating trying to work out how the sync section is wired, it seems to be the opposite configuration as shown in the schematics, where the schematic shows a positive tied plate and negative cathode, in this set it's opposite, cap (mica) and resistor values don't match documentation, there are more resistors than shown.
I'm hesitant to touch any of the mica caps in the sync area no, as I'm not sure of their value, and if I was to move them, it may make things worse.

Specifically C156, that seems not to be 180pf, but 82pf, C155, which is said to be 100pf, but is at an angle where the dots can't be seen, don't want to move it.

Another example of difference, is that R169, the link for vert sync from the clipper seems to be tied to the plate, not the cathode, and is 22k, not 12k as shown in the documentation.
I'm aware that they make design changes and such, but I have never seen a deviation of this magnitude before, especially when this chassis # was listed in the documentation.

Hopefully C169 C172 C177 in the h-osc area are not different as well.

At some point of frustration it pays to replace every cap and resistor (and diode if any) in a sync circuit,and do it carefully, undoing every lead completely and
resoldering with all new solder. And at least check each coil as best you can.

I fixed a flaky horizontal sync in my CT-100 and the similar circuit in an older
RCA set by doing that. And yes, its perfectly OK, in sync circuits (not RF oscillators!) to replace mica with NP0 ceramic. Its also perfectly OK to attach leads to surface mount caps (less so resistors, as they depend on the board for heat sink) and use them.

At some point of frustration it pays to replace every cap and resistor (and diode if any) in a sync circuit,and do it carefully, undoing every lead completely and
resoldering with all new solder. And at least check each coil as best you can.

I fixed a flaky horizontal sync in my CT-100 and the similar circuit in an older
RCA set by doing that. And yes, its perfectly OK, in sync circuits (not RF oscillators!) to replace mica with NP0 ceramic. Its also perfectly OK to attach leads to surface mount caps (less so resistors, as they depend on the board for heat sink) and use them.

problem is, the schematic has proven to be unreliable, at least for the sync area, bandersen has IDed that cap as 82pf, i have no reason to doubt him,and if so, then 75-561R10TCCQ82 is the mouser part to use.

the 100pf will have to be unhooked to be read, as its at an angle, and the dots can't be seen yet. :(

And yes, the resistors are easy enough to change, I have tons of metal film ones, most of the ones in there seem OK, but I'm starting not to trust them.

And again I don't really understand how to decode the dots on the mica caps, so I will most likely post pics of them. :/

I'm reading it as 82pF like this. The crazy part is there are several variations of the dot order
Grey = 8
Red = 2
Black = 0

It might also be 200pF where the first dot is the tollerence or dialectric material

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54613796790_5b2dc0b79b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rd2Z53)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54612615332_33948fb19a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rcVVS5)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54612599632_2449eccb7a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rcVRco)

I have tried to use this site, but don't know what way to plug in the colors or if i should be using all 6, or 3, or what? :tears:

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/tech-articles/capacitance-value-molded-mica-calculator?srsltid=AfmBOordjflK8W3Yn1s_ieTwok0hDAP Tn7oEm01MzM2bXABKsnZNvP_a

This is giving me a headache. :tears:

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=222168

This is kinda saying 820pf if i understand it.
FSN 8 SSN 2 TSN 0 multi = 0
820
Which agrees with that calculator site above.
confusing,


So, therefore, would not 82pf be black(0), grey(8) , red(2), with a multi of black? (0)
Or am I reading it all wrong?
I guess i can remove the silly thing and test it, one thing for sure, it's NOT 180pf.:thumbsdn:

Because of the multiple color coding standards I usually just take a tester to them if I can't see colors that match the schematic value.

Never, ever seen a cap with a 3rd significant digit. Read it the same as resistors.

black means number of zeros = 0. So 82pF not 820.

820 would be grey, red, brown.

So, that calculator site is inaccurate :/ or just confusing

It's not right for your brand of capacitor. There was no industry standard.

just took it out, and the M-tester says 82pf :O and the LCR says 83pf
so your first read was correct! :banana:

guess i gotta put it back for now till i get the right new part. :(

this will be a mess working out the right parts now.

shame that there was no standard back then.

sorry to be asking for help with these, but the dots just don;t make sense, and there is no standard like the resistors :(

the schematic SAYS this should be 100pf, but it is testing as 160, so the docs are wrong, or the part is really bad!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0625252105.jpg

If it's bad that would explain the poor sync! do the dots say 100 pf?

Yes, 100pF rated for 500 volts.

brown - black - black = 100pF

green = 500 volts

Yes, 100pF rated for 500 volts.

brown - black - black = 100pF

green = 500 volts

then it's VERY bad, and the source of the weak vert lock! and most likely the wonky horz as well, found my first real bad mica! wow!:D

So, this wonky mica is C155, the coupling cap between V15b 2nd sync amp and V17b sync clipper, with a leveler in the middle, 120v dc potential across it, with a signal of about 90V P/P being passed.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/magie-mica.jpg
Seems that the part was so bad, that my digital M-tester could not ID what it was, too leaky i guess, but the LCR tester tested it 160pf, way over spec, I would dare say it had SMD, if these types of caps could even get that, which I don't believe they do.

Which brings me to wondering how I ever got any H or V lock with a cap in there that far off spec, and wonder if there are any others in there which are as bad as that one. :sigh:
I have not put in the new one yet, but did test it in the M-tester, 98pf and the LCR tester 100pf, I guess it's better calibrated, it DID cost x2 as much! :D

160 isn't that far off from 100 and will pass a signal just fine. It's not a tuned or precision circuit so that value isn't critical.

I'd say a coupling cap could easily be +100% or more and you wouldn't notice a difference. Now if it was shorted or very leaky that's another story. IIRC a leaky cap will measure as having a higher capacitance.

It has to have been very leaky, as the M-tester just could not ID it at all, I have only seen it do that on really bad caps.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Multifunctional-Capacitor-component-Backlight/dp/B01MYU0QI3/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0_image?pd_rd_w=VBWkx&content-id=amzn1.sym.bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac%3Aamzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac&pf_rd_r=EKJPH0CTYZNJWWHRZK9Y&pd_rd_wg=L94yt&pd_rd_r=32ef9c29-cbce-405c-b4bb-179249e34226&pd_rd_i=B01MYU0QI3

Not the best thing, but it has it's uses.
It had no problem with the old 82pf cap in the set, but after 10-12 tries, the 100pf kept coming up as unidentified / bad part, so it be too leaky for it.

The LCR meter, does not test ESR, so it does not care, if i had one of those old style cap testers like you have that could push it up to the rated 500v, I have no doubt the light would be blinking like a strobe light!:D

new 100pf cap is in.

so is the 330pf.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0626251936.jpg
I'm pretty sure that's 300 pf on the old one. edit TYPO 330 :P

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0626251933.jpg
I think the tiny one is the 5pf but the big one is not on the schematic, no idea what it is it's across the varicap.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0626251931.jpg
and I'm sure that;s the 1800pf, hard to see it in there :O

330pF on the old one.

100pF across the variable cap.

Yes, 1800pF on the big one.

kinda sux cause I got only 1 100pf so far.

perhaps i won't needed it.

the 82pf was ordered today and is on the way, a disc cap as suggested, npo
75-561R10TCCQ82
there was 1 more ordered for the vert section 4700pf that i could not get in npo, the best i could get was X7R .
594-H472K47X7RL63J7R
a Mica one was $12-$ 15:tears:

Was able to confirm that the 100pf cap is indeed leaky, took it to work, hooked it to the bench power source, turned up as high as it would go, 37v, + into one end and – on the other via a 1m pull down, and the DVM saw about 25v leaking through it. Repeated this with the 330pf cap and it was 0v.

It will be interesting to see what I get when I try this on the other mica caps I remove from the set, I just wish I had a source that went a bit higher like 200-300v to really push these caps.
But to be leaking at less than 50v is pretty bad!

new 100pf cap is in.

so is the 330pf.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0626251936.jpg
I'm pretty sure that's 300 pf on the old one. edit TYPO 330 :P

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0626251933.jpg
I think the tiny one is the 5pf but the big one is not on the schematic, no idea what it is it's across the varicap.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0626251931.jpg
and I'm sure that;s the 1800pf, hard to see it in there :O

Hey...they look like my favorite Chinesium resistors!!!

kinda sux cause I got only 1 100pf so far.

perhaps i won't needed it.

the 82pf was ordered today and is on the way, a disc cap as suggested, npo
75-561R10TCCQ82
there was 1 more ordered for the vert section 4700pf that i could not get in npo, the best i could get was X7R .
594-H472K47X7RL63J7R
a Mica one was $12-$ 15:tears:

You'd probably be better off using a plastic film cap than an X7R ceramic. Is the existing 4700 bad?

BTW you can get a 4700pF mica from JustRadios for $5. https://www.justradios.com/cart.html
I too use Mouser for most stuff but when it comes to more specialized caps (like 6,000 axial film caps), JustRadios is often better.