Not sure that it is at this point, if you look at the schematic, it's C160, sitting right on the yellow wire of the vertical block oscillator transformer, leading to the vert hold pot wiper via a 1m pot.

I am looking in the area cause there was very touchy / weak v-lock / sync, but this all could have been a symptom of the bad 100pf cap in the stage before, (sync leveler) could it not?

OK, after all the new parts, it still works! :banana:
vertical lock /hold is much more stable!

horizontal is still a bit touchy, having to tune in the varicap (h-lock) all the way, to get it stable, had to order yet another 100pf cap from mouser, spending more on shipping than the part, as I only had one.:tears:
sure, I could have gotten it cheaper from someplace else, but they take 3-5 days, and mouser gets it here in 1 day, no matter what!

I suggested Just Radios because you said the 4700pF mica from Mouser was too expensive.

I suggested Just Radios because you said the 4700pF mica from Mouser was too expensive.

Correct, the original 4700pf is still in there, if the v- lock was not better after replacing these parts, then i would have looked into replacing it.
A few other places had the 100pf cap cheaper, but has a 3-5 day shipping window, I picked Mouser as they are 4-5 hours from here, so no matter how they ship, it's always next day.

Basically, I'm getting a bit excited now,SO CLOSE NOW, so close to slapping the 16LP4A in the set and seeing if it all works right, IE, the ion trap, focus coil circuits. If things hold up well with the test CRT as they seem they are, it looks like the chassis is pretty much done.
Thus I'm being a little foolish and and not willing to wait for parts from someplace a bit farther away!:D
Mouser is just down the street, in a "Texas" sense! :D

I most cases where a 1000pF or higher Mica is used you can get away with a standard film capacitor... which is what I usually do.

I most cases where a 1000pF or higher Mica is used you can get away with a standard film capacitor... which is what I usually do.

I do have some cheapy generic film to replace that 4700pf if needed, but as the v-lock seems stable now, most likely won't need it.

the new 100pf will come today, removed the old one across the variable capacitor, it's testing at 152pf, i'ts prob leaky like the other one was.

Confirmed, the 100pf cap across the variable capacitor, is leaky as the other one was testing via the same way before, +35v hooked to one end, the other to negative via 1m resistor pull down, if good/ no leakage, there should be no voltage seen across the resistor, but as before, saw about 25v, this is no doubt the source of the unstable lock in the horizontal oscillator in the same way the other one caused trouble in the vertical.

Odd though, that of the few mica caps replaced, the only 2 that seemed to be leaky were both 100pf and same type, coincidence?

so far so good.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0702252158.mp4


seems mostly stable, no wax loss yet on this FBT.
no smoke or fire!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0703252258.jpg

the rust cleaned off the focus coil very well with WD40, and replacement cap for the yoke seems to be a pure and natural fit! :D

First test of the 16LP4 was a success! :banana::D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0708251931d.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0708251931.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0708251931b.jpg

The Ion trap works, brightness works, it did not with the test CRT, smearing is gone, I may have to add a resistor in parallel with the focus coil, as I don't have the full range i should, but I expected that as the lp4 has a weaker gauss than the other tubes, but this is a big step forward!

I was sort of expecting to see this with the 16LP4 as mentioned it needs a less magnetic field to focus than the 16FP4 that was in there.
16FP4 = 146 ma
16LP4 = 110 ma
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/focusa.jpg

The pics posted were taken with R209 set to minimum, but the field was still too strong, the entire sets positive bias is being shunted trough the focus coil, via the 2 centering pots (H/V), far end hooked to the main bias pi filter, which is then passed on to the bleeder network after the focus coil. (250v)

To try to get the needed range, I could change the value of R209, but that will put even more stress on R210, or what I will more likely do is put a shunt resistor across the focus coil like seen in the RCA 630TS to lower the field power a bit, 1.5k-2k or so.

First test fit of the NOS 16LP4 in the cabinet.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0711252004a.jpg

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0711252004.jpg
As I thought, I will have to shift the yoke wooden mount back a bit to get it to work, no biggie.

The front glass is not perfect, but at least it's not broken! :D

It now fits!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0712251351a.jpg

you can see how far I had to shift it back to fit the larger size of the bell on the 16LP4.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0712251352a.jpg front.

A test of the CRT mounted in the cabinet, using the OEM speaker.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0715252030.mp4

Ion trap is adjusted correctly now.

I tried a 1w 1.2k resistor in parallel with the focus coil, did not last long burned up fast. will try a 2k 5-10w later.

still have to adjust screen geometry and stuff once all is said and done.

:banana:

So far so good.
The flyback transformer holding up well, no a drop of wax at all, no idea why the other one fried.

pic is a bit wide, bit i may be able to adjust it down horizontal linearity is also a bit off, not tried to adjust it yet, but over all it's pretty good.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/magie-mica.jpg

again, re-using an older pic-post.

got a question on how the width coil works. which can be switched in or out on this set, have not tried to adjust it yet, it is broken but can still be tweaked, does it make it wider, or more narrow when engaged? i need it to be more narrow! L133, the pic it a bit too wide!

also I have found that adding a 900k resistor in parallel to the focus coil gets me good focus range!

I ordered a new width coil, merit mwc-8, cheap $10.

Which will hopefully get the screen to shrink and fit a bit better, the original has a broken paper tube and is hard to adjust.

Once width is set,I can try to adjust horizontal linearity, which is a bit off as well.

And What's up with the "server busy" errors that are popping up so much lately? :thumbsdn: :scratch2: Annoying!

Width coil only gives about a half inch Maybe less.

A test of the CRT mounted in the cabinet, using the OEM speaker.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0715252030.mp4

Ion trap is adjusted correctly now.

I tried a 1w 1.2k resistor in parallel with the focus coil, did not last long burned up fast. will try a 2k 5-10w later.

still have to adjust screen geometry and stuff once all is said and done.
This pic shows horizontal drive a bit high with the white line down the center.

This pic shows horizontal drive a bit high with the white line down the center.

no horizontal drive adjustment on this chassis, just width and linearity.

no horizontal drive adjustment on this chassis, just width and linearity.

Ok well the the frequency is off a bit to give you the white line.

Adjusting the linearity may reduce it a bit, i have not tried to set it yet, waiting for the new width coil.

Adjusting the linearity may reduce it a bit, i have not tried to set it yet, waiting for the new width coil.

I don’t think linearity will make a difference with that drive line. And that set don’t have a coil with the screw rod in the middle. If not there’s got to be a way to get that horizontal frequency down. Maybe go back and look at what was done in the horizontal section besides the flyback because that line kind of puts a damper on all the work that was done already. Had the same problem with 2 sets 1 color and 1 b&w was the same thing just a slight counterclockwise and it was gone.

I doubt that the frequency is off by any degree, or else I would not have good horizontal lock, which is very solid, I can switch it off the channel and back and not loose lock, which is in the 2nd step of the horizontal circuit alignment, it does look like a drive issue, but I have no way to adjust it other than the linearity coil.

I doubt that the frequency is off by any degree, or else I would not have good horizontal lock, which is very solid, I can switch it off the channel and back and not loose lock, which is in the 2nd step of the horizontal circuit alignment, it does look like a drive issue, but I have no way to adjust it other than the linearity coil.

Both my sets had very strong and stable horizontal as well but the frequency was off very little.

The instructions are vague and confusing for the horizontal geometry.
C:
Width and linearity.
Adjust the width control (located in the upper corner of HV box) so picture fills screen bezel.
Then adjust horizontal drive and linearity for proper width and linearity of picture.

It mentions "horizontal drive" but as mentioned before, there is no such adjustment, so before I mess with the horizontal speed adjustment or horizontal lock again, I'm going to see what happens when the Width and linearity core is tuned, the linearity, being on the cathode of the damper tied to 3 caps.

The instructions are vague and confusing for the horizontal geometry.
C:
Width and linearity.
Adjust the width control (located in the upper corner of HV box) so picture fills screen bezel.
Then adjust horizontal drive and linearity for proper width and linearity of picture.

It mentions "horizontal drive" but as mentioned before, there is no such adjustment, so before I mess with the horizontal speed adjustment or horizontal lock again, I'm going to see what happens when the Width and linearity core is tuned, the linearity, being on the cathode of the damper tied to 3 caps.
And the schematic actually says adjust horizontal drive but no such adjusts there. :scratch2:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-solved.jpg

So far, I have not touched L111 yet.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-solved.jpg

So far, I have not touched L111 yet.

Is that L110 says horizontal speed that would be it

confirmed, adjusting the width and linearity got rid of the line in the middle.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0724251852c.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0724251853a.jpg

Still stretched a bit on the left.

not adjusted vert yet.

That left side wouldn’t be horizontal? Well either way after adjusting everything and the line comes back then take a look at L110

I was able to minimize the stretch on left side by adjusting the angle of the focus coil, I will adjust again once the front bezel is on, as it covers the far corners, I may not be able to get rid of all of it, but minimize it via L111 adjusting and focus coil tilt.

Still cant fully get rid of the stretch on the left side of the screen, was able to make it smaller but not get rid of it yet.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/h-lin.jpg
Gonna try to replace C180 (270pf) see what that does, may do nothing, more likely the 56pf cap in the yoke, but don't wanna pull it all apart again at this point. :(

When I had the white line on my set I do recall I had a slight stretch but after tweaking the horizontal drive just a bit to get rid of the line the stretch was gone so maybe that’s what you have going on. Try disconnecting the width coil.

Left side of the screen is controlled by the damper circuit as recovered energy from the collapsing magnetic field fades away.
Right side is controlled by the horizontal output tube.
The cap in the yoke suppresses ringing.
Pretty sure C180 filters noise out of the DC bias horizontal centering control.

More bad luck! :tears::tears::tears:

Was trying to adjust the Width and lin a bit more today and suddenly lost brightness and vertical height, it would sometimes come back, but quickly fade, HV was fine, but something was clearly wrong, did not take long to find that one of the resistors that I had left alone ( candohm ) had failed, R215, (260 ohms 11w), so, ordered now is a RH025261R0FE02 261 ohm 25w, the closest I can find. will be here thurs, since I missed the window for them to ship it today.

Yop, Mouser just shipped it about an hour ago.

Tiny little thing for a 25w resistor, looks like this.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pWYAAOSwDEVmKtlE/s-l960.webp
Much smaller than the failed 11w one that I opened to look inside.
It had not burned open or anything, but failed due to corrosion where the metal clamps to the nichrome resistor wire inside, I must have disturbed it too much bumping the HV case where it's mounted,when trying to adjust the horizontal linearity that is right near it. :(

Well you better get an insurance policy when you’re done with that set by the time you are done with it you can call it NOS new old stock.

I knew it was a bit of a risk not to replace those resistors, but is did not expect it to fail so soon, after they checked OK when I first got it, I have left them alone in half the sets I have so far and they have been fine for years, it's just this one that bit me! :tears:

Resistor came yesterday, and all is working again!

back to where I was before, trying to get the linearity as good as i can, for now.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0801250534.jpg

fail point on the old candohm.

As I mentioned, I am unable to get the stretch to go away on the left side completely, I can make it a bit smaller, but not go away, I suspect it's due to the one 56pf cap in the yoke on one of the 2 wingdings for the horizontal, which I will leave for now as I don't want to pull it all apart again right now.

I had one other brief fail, the contrast pot, 10k, completely open, no biggy, but of course, the new one has a shaft that does not match, so fitting the OEM knob will be a pain.

And with all the runtime so far, the 2nd FBT has not lost a single drop of wax, and is running cool! :D:banana:

Like I said earlier - the left side is controlled by the damper circuit. The 56pF cap in the yoke is to suppress ringing.
Swap out the damper tube or tinker with the values in the damper circuit.

Like I said earlier - the left side is controlled by the damper circuit. The 56pF cap in the yoke is to suppress ringing.
Swap out the damper tube or tinker with the values in the damper circuit.

Sorry, with all the downtime Weirdness, I missed that post of yours. :tears:

One thing that has been bugging me about the damper area, is how R199 (10K) is hooked up, every schematic shows it connected to pin 3 (far side) of the horz linearity coil, but when I got this, it was hooked to pin 1, which is the damper cathode side, and I put it there when I replaced the resistor, so was this a factory update? Error by someone who worked on it in the past? Could this be causing the stretch issue?

https://youtu.be/QgqQGi0XazA I have got it pretty much as good as I can get it.

Looks pretty good. Certainly, a labour of love.

https://youtu.be/QgqQGi0XazA I have got it pretty much as good as I can get it.

Yup it looks great 👍

Yes looks very nice!!

Is this site really working again?
Width reduced and horizontal linearity tweaked, but still not perfect, better than it was, prob never will be. As someone said on FB,

never expect perfect linearity on such an old set.

Have to adjust height a bit.

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/download/file.php?id=525744&t=1

Come on FIX THIS SITE ALREADY!!:tears:

OK, now that it looks like the site is working again.

After much time and testing, I'm pretty much at the point to where I'm ready to put the chassis back into the cabinet, still no wax loss from the FBT, come up stable every time, horizontal linearity still not perfect, but a LOT better then it was before.

Not sure what else I can do to it. :D

Chassis ready to be put back in, as mentioned, not quite perfect, but much better than it was.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0922251958b.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0922252001a.jpg

Well, I did contact Moyer electronics last Fri 9/26 to see if it was possible to get the right FBT, so far not a peep back from them. :tears:
Any idea how long it takes for them to reply?

Well, I did contact Moyer electronics last Fri 9/26 to see if it was possible to get the right FBT, so far not a peep back from them. :tears:
Any idea how long it takes for them to reply?

Mee to, some time ago I'm not received response from them, when I requested a flyback.

Well, I did contact Moyer electronics last Fri 9/26 to see if it was possible to get the right FBT, so far not a peep back from them. :tears:
Any idea how long it takes for them to reply? It can take Bill a while, but he's always gotten back to me. If you left a part number, he will look through their stock before responding, and that can take a while. Ive bought a couple flybacks from them and no problems but it did take a couple weeks

It can take Bill a while, but he's always gotten back to me. If you left a part number, he will look through their stock before responding, and that can take a while. Ive bought a couple flybacks from them and no problems but it did take a couple weeks
I gave detailed info..

---
Replacement Flyback needed, parts inquiry
Info
TV type
Magnavox Brittany tv the chassis is a ct-245
Original PN# 320035-1 damaged from exposure.
possible replacements.
Thordarson FLY 4
Merit HVO-5
Stancor A8119
Triad D55
Ram X077
right now using a Ram X032, cause I could not find anything else, works but is not the right part, causes slight horizontal linearity issues, please let me know if you have the right one, or can find one.
Thanks.
----

Chassis is now back in the cabinet.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/1014252118.mp4

I have done all I can till i get the right FBT.
3 weeks now, and still no reply from Moyer electronics. :sigh:

one month and no reply from Moyer electronics. :tears:

I've been waiting almost a year about a flyback and given up on them.

Jeez....You think they'd at least have the courtesy to tell you they don't have one if they've checked.

Jeez....You think they'd at least have the courtesy to tell you they don't have one if they've checked.

exactly...:tears:

Shango helped me out with Moyers and a new flyback is on the way for my Computer Space project.

He knows Bill the Owner who is a good guy and says they have loads of vintage TV parts.
You really need to pick up the phone and call them.
(570) 286-6707

one month and no reply from Moyer electronics. :tears:

Hey moyers may have the flyback all you have to do is call them and ask for bill and tell him you are a friend of Tim from New York and then ask him about the flyback don’t mention you have been waiting or that you had called already.

The maggy in the new location, for now! :P

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20251108_165833.jpg

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20251108_165718.jpg

Probably should have changed some more of the resistors in the vertical oscillator area even though they tested OK 15% of what they were rated, as it's hard to get lock when first turned on,cold, but after warm 10 min it's VERY stable and fine for hours. :sigh:

The maggy in the new location, for now! :P

...

Nice!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggy-solved.jpg

As I mentioned, I'm done with the set for now...
But it's still a bit too wide and linearity is off, as for width, S101 adjusts it by swapping in resistors on G2 of the HOT, what effect will raising or lowering the values of them have on width?
Someone also mentioned changing the 100 ohm cathode resistor to a lower value, but won't that also lower the HV as well?

You could experiment with a width sleeve. That consists of some thin brass shim stock wrapped one turn around the neck, so it just overlaps. If I recall correctly you get the most width with it removed, and gets less as you slide it into the yoke.

I got a new toy for Christmas!


http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20251218_170449.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20251218_170532.jpg

That and a few others..

I won't be able to set it up till later. :D

You could experiment with a width sleeve. That consists of some thin brass shim stock wrapped one turn around the neck, so it just overlaps. If I recall correctly you get the most width with it removed, and gets less as you slide it into the yoke.

If I knew where to get one! :P

Yet another new toy!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ezgif-618c4c9687f96e65.jpg

This one will need to be restored.

But the Transformer is good, and the 6E5 is strong! :D

Yet another new toy!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ring-ring.jpg

RING Ring! :banana: