Late last year I picked up a old Superior cross bar generator , I replaced the caps in it and I got the VHF section to work .
But the ocsillator for the bars is still not working , after lots of time spent messing around with it .
I have traced it down a resistor in the oscillator that it dead .
otherwise every thing checks out .
Any suggestions on this color code ?
It is a odd circuit ,there is JAN type 7193 wired up as a rectifier , and 2 , 954 acorn tubes , one as a transmitter , and the other one used as a oscillator to produce the bars .
Superior must have got a load military tubes .:yes:
the one end is silver , next to the yellow

To start of with black would be odd , would'nt it ? considering black is 0 on the first figure .
If I would start with yellow , it would be 470 ohm .

whats with the exrta colors ?

By "dead" do you mean open? Because that looks like a ceramic capacitor.

-Ian

Hi,

Looks like 470 ohms, 20% from the pic.

Cheers!

Retro's right, that looks like a capacitor.

looks more like a cap to me.

47pf 10% ??

peaking coil? showing my ignorance

Here's another vote for capacitor.

Ya know, a schematic would be KEY here.Don't suppose you got a diagram for that old relic.Good Luck..:scratch2:Color code is inconsistent for a resistor.Its either a choke or a cap.Do you have a LCR meter.

A say peaking coil, or cap. Color code is the same as with resistors, but is applied differently.

Slightly off subject... There's a really bad saying that we probably all heard at one time, which helps you remember the color code... I can't remember the whole saying, but it starts "Bad Boys Rape (O_____) Young Girls.........". Does anyone remember the rest of the saying?

Charles

Charles:

I will PM the saying to you. I'm not sure if I can post it here.

Steve

Here's another version:

Bad Beer Rots Our Yellow Guts But Vodka Goes Well.

Bad Boys Ravage Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly....:D Can't help it, ex-GI.

A say peaking coil, or cap. Color code is the same as with resistors, but is applied differently.

Slightly off subject... There's a really bad saying that we probably all heard at one time, which helps you remember the color code... I can't remember the whole saying, but it starts "Bad Boys Rape (O_____) Young Girls.........". Does anyone remember the rest of the saying?

Charles

But Violet Gives Willingly........


(edit.. oops, doubled...)

looks more like a cap to me.

47pf 10% ??


Close - the code is:
Yellow Violet Red Black (silver dot)

Yellow = 4
Violet = 7
Red = 2 zeroes
Black = 20% tolerance
Silver dot = something to do with temperature rating

So, that's 4700pf, or .0047uf, +/- 20%.

A modern disc cap would be labelled 472.

And it's ceramic, so it's probably still good. Might as well try a sub while you've got it out though.

-Ian

I don't have a schematic for this thing :tears:
I was stupid and felt sorry for it sitting there on ebay , bid $9.99 for it .
thats where the trouble all started :D
There is only 1 other one that I have seen on the internet , I emailed the owner and he dosn't have a schematic either .
I should have got a Heathkit instead .
Who knows it might be a capacitor , I cannot get a reading off it at all with the VTVM , even at the RX1 meg setting . I have studied the circuit , and it seems alot like a hartley oscillator circuit , which would make it the part in question a resistor .
I tried a 470 ohm resistor in it late last night and had no better results
I have switched the tubes and still no better . I had a audio generator hooked up to the oscillator tube , when its connected to the grid the it doesn't produce bars too well , but when it's on the plate I was getting a nice bar pattern .
perhaps the next step is to try a cap :yes:

Who knows it might be a capacitor , I cannot get a reading off it at all with the VTVM , even at the RX1 meg setting

It's definately a cap, ceramic. These rarely fail. Odds are something else in the set has failed.

The component you pictured for us--where is it connected in the mess? If you could return the original component to its spot and take a pic of it and post it maybe I can figure things out. Armed with the tube # I can get the basing info and puzzle it out. If you can get a closeup (like 2-3 inches square enlarged to as large a frame as will show reasonably cleanly) and then another farther out (like 4-5 inches square--ditto the last) maybe I can see enough to troubleshoot.

I'm used to troubleshooting without schematics as a rule, as I've always been too cheap to buy them. Nowadays the WWW makes it easier to obtain such info for free, but not always.

A Hartley usually operates by working the plate with the grid through a center-tapped coil with the tap fed by B+, or working the grid with the cathode, with the tap connected to cathode and the low end of the coil to ground. Finding out where that stray component fits in the general scheme may help solve the riddle as to what it is, and help us all to solve this problem. Just my .02....

We may go through all this only to discover that the socket itself is bad... :rolleyes: :D

I used to work at a electronics parts store and that looks like an Inductor to me, according to this web page it is a 4,700 microhenry coil with a 10% tolerance, just my 2 cents, Logan
http://electronic.netsons.org/?q=node/61

The world of inductors/peaking coils, etc. seems to be full of black magic for those of us who can barely keep our caps and resistors straight! One issue is they come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

My take on the "coil" aspect of this is that most I've seen are bumped out at the middle like a dromedary camel rather than double as a bactrian. :D

But--all kidding aside--my feeling is we need to see a schematic for this apparatus, or perhaps the instructions I outlined in a previous post describing specific picture-taking would perhaps give us all some hints as to what's going on.

As I might have said I am used to the martyrdom of having to cypher out a lot of these engineering cluges without such aid. Laced-together wiring of such as Tektronix practises usually makes a schematic essential. But a lot of this other stuff is freer in physical wiring nature, leaving open and more apparent the actual hookup of one part to another.... :scratch2: Pictures of the scene of the crime would help--perhaps.... :dunno:

Does it look like current eBay item 160216976950 ?

Does it look like current eBay item 160216976950 ?Yep that's the same as it , I might buy that one too, Double my fun .:scratch2:

My friend went to tech school in the mid 1980's and he learned the resistor color code as: "Blacky Brown Raped Our Young Girls But Violent Gives Willingly - Get Some Now" where the "Get Some Now" is the code for the tolerances. I've also heard a much more un-PC version but this more "PC" version is more accurate anyways.

These are interesting and entertaining mnemonics for the RMA color codes! :D:thmbsp:

But, since I started out in electronics experimenting at the tender age of 8, and going to the local public library to check out books on radio and electronics (you would never find me in the children's section--never went there! :D), and thus dealing with these striped components, I wasn't exactly up on what rape was all about--nor anything else along those lines for that matter. :o :D

I'll be honest with you all: I never needed any aid to remembering the color code; I just learned it. At a very early age.

By the time I was almost 9 I could read a resistor and tell at a split-second glance what its value was. Don't ask me why... I guess that the younger one is the more quickly they learn... :dunno:

Always--and to this day--my storage drawers of resistors are labeled in colors indicating the first and third bands of the banding of the resistor--rather than by numeric indication of ohmic value. Go figure. Do any of you do it this way....? :yikes: I'm curious as to how many of us can glance at a resistor and without thinking about it can blurt out its value in an eyeblink....