I found a small portable plastic cabinet sears color tv at a recycle center. It is tubed and in nice shape. I did not have my phone so no pics or glasses so I have no idea what model it is. Ok I did notice that the brightness is all the way clockwise so I am assuming all the way up. Yes someone may have messed with it but if it was turned all the way up when running is that automatically scream bad crt or could a tube cause that? All the tubes I could see had sears written on them. For $25.00 is it worth a shot ?

Yes grab it. Table top tube sets are kinda scarce these days

So a tube besides the crt could cause possible low brightness ?

ry8h128dyw

Lots of things can cause dim. The screens are all the way up or the knob on the front? Some small sets like the porta colors call for running the screens wide open so its hard to tell. $25 is nothing, that won't even buy a tank of gas so its not big money.
I have had sets you would sware had bad crts and it turned out to be bad grid caps in the grids of the driver tubes. Its just real hard to tell without a proper test.

The brightness knob on the front is all the way up ( I am assuming since it was already fully clockwise). It is on a shelf of tv's at the e-waste place that are for sale so one of the guys could have been messing with it, who knows. My concern of course is getting it home and having a really weak crt because that might put it out of my current ability to fix financially. But a tube now and then and caps here and there is cheap enough. So I will give it a shot, thanks.

here is a internet picture that looks just like the one I will be picking up.

Hmm, looks like a Panasonic, Sanyo made sets for Sears also.

As long as no one else gets it before I do I will post pics and model number. Would panasonic or Sanyo been the better of the two manufacturers?

Kinda like the difference between Ford & Chevy, I'd think. Panasonic's bigger, but I'd happily grab either one...

I'd feel a little better if when I grabbed the brightness control and turned it , it had room both ways. I guess I already Knew that anything can cause a dim picture but I really , really... want a tube color set.I probably should have just asked for opinions about the price and rarity of these sets.

I did have a ctc5d along time ago but I realized that I have no clue how to set up purity, and convergence and was in over my head so I gave it free to a member here.So I will grab this set and put in caps, check resistors and go from there with my fingers crossed . I have done 5 black and white tv's so I "should" be ok. I do not have a tube tester that can handle compactrons so this might be interesting

that is a Toshiba and it was my first color tv (1971) it was gift from my aunt. It cost her $260.00 and change. lasted until 1985. only one repair.

it does have an instant switch in the back.there is another switch in the back but i do not remember the purpose. the warranty sticker was place in the back of the set with the date of delivery.

Instant switch ? what is that ?

Did it have a decent picture?

the instant on keeps the crt on at low voltage, thus you do not have to wait to long for the set to come on.I was the first in the my school having your own color tv. three guns picture tube, nice color. my mother told me that the picture went green and dim, and she put it the garbage with out telling me.

radio nut are you coming to NYC any time soon? lets make a deal!

Interested in this set huh ?

I have a Sears and a couple Wards smallscreen color sets from that era and they are unimpressive, not as good a picture as a Portacolor in my opinion. But this one looks a step up from what I have and might be alright. A good save, no matter what.

One thing I thought was neat is the hue is a slider control and the rest normal rotary pots.

This really belongs in the square forum, not to be picky but it's too 'new' to be considered early color.

Once I get it, I will start new thread there. I realized too late where it should be.

Don't worry about it, one of the mods will probably see this and move it for you.

Don't worry about it, one of the mods will probably see this and move it for you.

At your service. :yes:

These off brand table sets (especially the rebadged imports) are VERY rare. Had that shown it's self here in WI for that price I'd have a hard time leaving the store without it even if the picture was too dim to watch.

ok, so its a good risk, monday it will be mine !

Ok, Got the set and put it on a variac and powered it up slowly.

In my town we have two stations that still broadcast analog. picked up both but not crystal clear.

So far all of the tubes I have checked are sears and good except for the high voltage rectifier which was solid state.

The crt tests good no shorts/gas at blue 800 green 800 red 780.

The brightness is all the way up but witha good crt I am not worried. I will get a sams now and go to work.

What is the "killer" adjustment for?

this is a picture taken from my phone and then retaken on a camera just to show I did get a picture on the set.

I was equally happy that it came up "locked"the first time.
yes the quality of this pic is crap!

See yr in Lima...Ever get down to Fair much ?

That is where I variac'd the set.
I used to work there as a second job. after I quit officially working there I used to go in and fix tube testers or do manual labor to help out.

because of that the owner is allowing me to use extra shop space to calibrate my capehart radio and bring the tv in to tear apart and check tubes and small things like that.

Killer is probably short for color killer, which is a circuit that looks for the color synchronizing "burst", and if it is below a level specified by the color killer adjustment will turn off the color demodulating circuits (to prevent color noise on monochrome programing). The color killer circuit is not as useful today as it was then because TV stations not only less frequently broadcast monochrome programs, but they also tend to leave the burst going on the monochrome stuff they do broadcast thus giving the circuit little to do. If you want to kill the burst on monochrome shows then there are ways of removing the burst with readily available hardware (anything that outputs component or S-video is a candidate for being the hardware).

Looks like ya, done real good on that set.

I am real nervous because I have done black and white sets but not a color set. I do not know what it is I need to know above the black and white "level".

So I will go slow and put in new electro's and check everything out voltage wise and hopefully don't need to adjust anything else.

What do I use to clean the tubes that will not remove the sears logo. Normally I just clean them with windex.

Try to dust off the top of the tubes. The Sears logos will come off if the windex hits them.

562. model is Toshiba.

What is the "killer" adjustment for?


Your TV must be a color set, as there is no "killer" control on b&w sets.

It has been some time since I worked with analog color TVs, so I am going by what I remember. Analog CRT color TVs had what was known as a "color killer" circuit, which shut off the color processing chain in the TV when a black-and-white show was being telecast. If the killer is misadjusted or inoperative, color interference will appear in b&w pictures. The killer adjust potentiometer regulates the point at which the color killer starts to work. If the control is set too high, it will firmly cut off the color processing circuits, resulting in a b&w picture even on known color programs; if too low, color interference will appear in known monochrome (black and white) pictures. The correct setting is that at which the color interference just disappears from the picture, which will ordinarily be at or near the center of the control's range.

Last question for now ( I hope).
There is a switch on the back labled " kine bias ".
OK I assume that means crt bias. Is it a good idea not to mess with that?

Leave it alone for now. You will mess up your B/W picture tracking.

Can someone look up the sam's set/ folder please. it is a sears model 562. I have access to sams but not the master index. Thanks!

The is television of lower castes and very common. In when I was my young this is television found in rubbish piles outside of the city square. :banana: you televison make me feel very lucky and young in the before. :music: I hope that you will hold it gentlly and add love. Please make picture after you restore and add digital switches!! :music::music:

I will keep posting progress but what did you mean by adding digital switches ?

Your set is a model 562.40280002.

oh, I thought I only needed the first three digits for the model number, thanks!

Thats OK.

All Sears stuff has a 3 digit number then a period, and then a load of other numbers. First 3 digits tell you who made it.

I had one like that with the Toshiba name on it. It had a portacolor quality picture. It was instant on like talked about, with very reduced voltage on the tubes. It had a lota good things going for it as far as design goes, definitely a keeper, but I didn't think so when I had it back in the 80's.........

You need Sams 1171-2. There is a also a production change bulletin for it in 1349-3. Check on here, I bet somebody has a spare copy. I could make a photocopy of mine in a pinch but an original is best. I don't think I want to work so hard as to scan all that!

Thank you ! I will see if Fair Radio has it. If not I will ask here.

On that set I believe the "kine bias" is a 3 position slide switch.... nothing to mess up, just put the switch back when yer done...

Ok, If it is a crt bias switch would another position possibly make the screen brighter?

I have ran this set about 3 hours now and everything seems fine but I still would like to at least put new electro's in it. A black and white set I have runs fine once hot but the main multi section filter capacitor can has white crap seeping out of it so It will be fixed.

So I am hoping that new filter caps in this color set might improve performance some even though it is functioning well now

Unless there is a 60hz ripple in the audio or picture, or the raster is under scanned for a while after warm up changing the lytics will probably not yield a noticeable effect. Most sets that new tend to have good ltyics, and I hear that vintage Japanese lytics tend to be especially reliable. The paper/mylar bypass caps on the other hand tend to be a weak point on most sets, and that seems to be especially the case for Japanese sets.

so far this set plays well but it takes a while for the color to come in correctly.

The picture starts with a greenish yellow tint and after a while clears up. but I so far can't find the tuner tubes...... may have to pull this out of the cabinet to check them.

Most of the other tubes were weak and two showed shorted.

prob just a weak blue gun that takes a bit longer to get up to full power. Generally bias should be at the lowest level to make a good pic, however there maybe a different setup routine for proper greyscale and tracking.

If the pic is looking good why are you wanting to replace tubes? the best tube tester is the set.

What DaveWM says.

I've seen tubes that test shorted on one tester test perfectly good on another one. Some tubes test with a short by design.

Glad you're having fun with it. I liked the little Toshiba tube sets.

When I finish a project that will probably stay with me I always start with nos tubes.

I don't want to be back in it any time soon!

If any of youse Byrds has a working El-Cheapo 7" Panasonic color set from the 1968-71 time frame, I THINK it was a "CT-771", & wanna get rid of it, I'd LOVE to give it a new home in the Green Hills of Tennessee...Pretty sure it is an all SS design, something unusual for the time. The ones I've seen are in a mustard /beigeish plastic cabinet, & look a LOT like their 8-9" B/W Tooob brothers...

That set has all transistor tuner, both UHF and VHF, and if one color gun comes in late its just the tube showing a little age, thats all..... If I remember right that was a wierd tube that had silver between the color dots, at least mine did, or looked like it did. Was definitely not a black stripe. Also its a delta gun setup. And although it looks like its got lots of tubes in there, its a hybrid only a few transistors. Neat thing about that set if you do take it apart is the handle stays with the chassis. And you really should not change the electrolytic caps in there, they will last a long time....

Oh, It's a hybrid set...... no wonder I did not see the tuner tubes.

Unless there is a 60hz ripple in the audio or picture, or the raster is under scanned for a while after warm up changing the lytics will probably not yield a noticeable effect. Most sets that new tend to have good ltyics, and I hear that vintage Japanese lytics tend to be especially reliable. The paper/mylar bypass caps on the other hand tend to be a weak point on most sets, and that seems to be especially the case for Japanese sets.

Well since this set is running well, think I should worry about paper/ mylar caps now or just enjoy and wait til I have issues first? The pic tube tested great on all guns but one could still come up slower than the rest?

well I did notice one issue, the bottom half of the screen stays greener than the rest. what should I look for?
I tried to take pictures but my camera "see's " a black bar that goes from the top down that I do not see.
If there is a lot of red or blue on the bottom of what I am watching I can't tell but if the bottom of the screen is dark or black the green tint comes through.

At first I was happy it worked at all, now I have been trying to tweak the tint and color controls on the front of the set to see how good it can be. that is when I really noticed it. I still need a diagram which I am trying to find and I believe it will be a cap/ resistor or peaking coil associated with the green gun. So maybe I will find the problem myself.

Being this will be my first real color set I am trying to stay away from all the other adjustments for color like the green, red, or blue screen til I know what I am doing.

Could be the tube needs to be degaussed...

Can you turn the color intensity down so you see a b/w image? Is it still greenish then?

Your set has an automatic degaussing circuit to curb stray magnetism. It might not be working, but is an easy fix.

yes it is greenish on b/w images. Doesn't a deguasser kind of make a noise when on?

So its is an easy fix?

Somebody near you has got to have a degaussing coil. You can degauss your set and then see if it's still got the green blotches. If it doesen't, then you can replace a couple of parts on the degauss circuitry and get that working.

Most sets I've been around would make a HUMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmm sound when I turned it on after being off for an hour or more, that fades away really fast as the tubes warm up. If you turn it on when its cold, listen close and see if you get the hum that fades.

I wouldn't adjust anything until you know the purity is OK, and the first thing is the magnetism issue.

Best of luck to you. A schematic is your friend.

yeah, work just not giving me enough time to go to Fair Radio and dig up a diagram when they are open. Thanks! I will check tomorrow morning and see if she hums for me indicating a good degauss circuit
.

I reworded the above reply to you>.>>> If you degauss it, and the blotches go away, then you fix the degauss circuit.

Ok, I did understand what you meant even if my reply was not a good indicator. I did edit my reply so it should make more sense!

Well, I turned it on and heard pretty much nothing.... and I had everything in the apartment turned off. No hum.

My wife was the hardest to make silent... she knew what I was doing and still wanted to try and talk the whole time!

I used to degauss CRT's with a small power transformer the core of which was E and I laminations. I took out all the I laminations which left the three legs of the E open, the coil wound on the center leg. The ends of the legs then "shoot" plenty of field. Plug this in across the room from the TV and slowly approach the TV screen moving the transfomer all around slowly. You can get pretty close to the screen and see the colors moving around. Then back away slowly across the room before unplugging. You can also use a soldering gun for this: the built-in transformer has a good external field. Remember to hold in the switch starting across the room and don't release the switch until you've backed away again.

On that Toshiba - Sears tv, the degaussing coil is a 2 prong plug that goes in somewhere on the left side of the chassis, green & black wire maybe, you could unplug it, turn on the set, let the tv come on, and then plug it in and see if you can see it degauss on screen.... But you can't do that with all tvs just this one if I remember right.... worst thing it just won't come on. Wish I still had my sams on that model. It was my first color set so I was all over every inch of it.... Also the yoke has a big thumb screw making it tight on the neck, don't force it, but see that it did not ever move that will lead to color problems. Same with movement of the convergence magnets.

Just dont move or adjust anything before you do the degauss!

Thanks for chiming in, Username. I cant remember specifics on these Toshibas, but I do remember replacing video output tubes, and audio output tubes more than anything.

I used to degauss CRT's with a small power transformer the core of which was E and I laminations. I took out all the I laminations which left the three legs of the E open, the coil wound on the center leg. The ends of the legs then "shoot" plenty of field. Plug this in across the room from the TV and slowly approach the TV screen moving the transfomer all around slowly. You can get pretty close to the screen and see the colors moving around. Then back away slowly across the room before unplugging. You can also use a soldering gun for this: the built-in transformer has a good external field. Remember to hold in the switch starting across the room and don't release the switch until you've backed away again.

Ok would an 80 watt soldering iron be enough? I can purchase a de"g" tool at Fair Radio. I also will check the other idea of disconnecting the tv's coil and turning it on and then plugging it in and see if anything happens.

I did put a little pressure on the purity assembly trying to get my big hands in the set to check and replace tubes so hopefully it did not get moved.

So the bottom half of the screen is green tinted.... but is is the whole bottom half. uniformally green.

I really don't think anything has been hit or moved because in my opinion the rest of the screen seems crisp for a small tv and has good color but I am still trying to get a good picture posted here and let You gentlemen give your opinions

Well, I put a big magnet on the screen, pulled it away and turned on the set...still green tint.After running it for a while the picture started getting jittery.

So I have a lot more work to do !

Then I remembered one thing I have not done I always do. I pulled tubes and put a small amount of marvel mystery oil on the pins and reinserted them, did the same on the degauss connector.
Now the set is playing perfectly! I want to post pictures and ran my set with a dvd player but it putssmall bright retrace lines on the screen. hooked to a hd to analog converter the picture is fine but my camera see's and shows a wide moving black bar plus I can't pause live tv.
Thanks for all advice given!!

I dont think I would have put a big magnet on the screen. You've probably helped to magnetize the shadow mask inside the tube, now.

I know next time not to do the magnet idea. I'm happy it did no damage since the set is performing great now with a solid picture and the green tint is gone.

well these pictures are as good as I can figure out how to do and they do not do the picture justice. I was told to slow down my shutter speed to take nicer pictures but can't find that on my camera! Again thanks everyone for helping!

Looks pretty good for a TV that was never ment to last this long. Glad you've got it going. I'd loved to see the insides... just for the memories...

I might just have to do that. Also as of now besides tubes the set is original, pic tube and everything else....still original!

In my opinion, watching the set run in person the colors are striking....... but I am sure I am biased

That set is really cute (kawaii!!!) :) Nice picture! I love the little Japanese color portables but they're getting pretty scarce these days. They are the only "newer" sets I collect, otherwise early color is where I spend most of my time (and money).

I'd take it off that ledge....Your tempting fate/murphy's law.

Well Holmesuser01, You wanted inside pics, here you go....

A few more.

Your set is VERY much like a set I have here that I'm starting on soon. Yours is much cleaner inside than mine is. Mine has all original Sears badged tubes in it except for the damper tube.

Thanks for taking the pictures!

Bruce