This set was a curb find; it's a Trutech (Target's in-house electronics brand) 20" CRT, model number T2000-FT.

Set is dead; no power. Inspection reveals the AC line fuse to be blown. I replaced the fuse and the set immediately popped the fuse again the second it was plugged in. Ideas? I don't see any visible damage on the mainboard (no vented caps, burnt resistors, etc.)

It's a nice enough looking set inside and out, and doesn't appear to be cheap junk. It would be cool to get it running.

Check the LV rectifier diodes, LV regulator transistor, electrolytics in the LV power supply, and the horizontal output transistor.

If the fuse is blowing before the set is even turned on, check the powerline bypass cap(s), as well.

The set is blowing the fuse the second it sees AC power.

I wish I knew where all those components were on the board. :D (Well, most of them--some I am aware of.)

I hope that set is better than other "Truetech" products. I bought a Trutech DVD player because I LOVED the size. It was tiny.. and an impulse purchase. It wasn't much money, but I think I got 5 plays out of it.
Speaking of Target... (I must be cursed), I bought a Toshiba 13" DVD Combo set. Set broke within six months with what sounds like the same problem you're having with your Truetech. It would actually spark from the plug in. Took it back, Target gave me another one, and it was DOA (same problem) out of the box. Took that back and exchanged it for a Target gift card instead.

I hope that set is better than other "Truetech" products. I bought a Trutech DVD player because I LOVED the size. It was tiny.. and an impulse purchase. It wasn't much money, but I think I got 5 plays out of it.
Speaking of Target... (I must be cursed), I bought a Toshiba 13" DVD Combo set. Set broke within six months with what sounds like the same problem you're having with your Truetech. It would actually spark from the plug in. Took it back, Target gave me another one, and it was DOA (same problem) out of the box. Took that back and exchanged it for a Target gift card instead.
Ouch! D:

I'm not getting sparks from the outlet, but when the fuse blows, it's not slow or quiet--it 'POPS' quite brightly. :yikes:

Put a size or 2 bigger in there...It may have been too small to begin with...(grin)

Put a size or 2 bigger in there...It may have been too small to begin with...(grin)

Haha, I thought that for awhile. The original fuse was a 2 amp--the replacement it blew was a 4 amp. :D

Well, put a Penny in there....(grin)

Well, put a Penny in there....(grin)

I'm not stickin' a penny in there! *hands penny* Here, you do it! :D

If it blows the penny too, then I'd suggest getting another TV and replacing the breaker that outlet is on :D.....................Wait, what am I saying!!!!!!! :yikes:

If that thing popped a penny I wouldn't touch it with a 10-foot pole! :D

What, you fellers DON'T trust "Redneck Engineering" ?!? (grin)

What, you fellers DON'T trust "Redneck Engineering" ?!? (grin)

On the contrary, check my response in the 'first TV you ever fixed' thread. :D

Why am I reminded of the "Dead Parrot" sketch"- "That Parrot wouldn't "Voom" if you put 400) Volts thru him..." Hehehehehe...

Now, I am honestly wondering what, if anything, would blow up if I put a solid piece of metal in there...or would it just be a case of slightly too much current, and the set would work fine?

You would certainly blow the traces off the bottom of the PCB, I've done it before. If it has a switching power supply, any number of things could be wrong. If it's linear, just keep disonnecting things in the circuit till it stops blowing fuses.

I don't trust rednecks or their "engineering" (spent enough time around them to know better), though I have Mac Guivered/jury riged some stuff back to life. There comes a point when one has tried fuses so large that one may as well connect one prong of the plug to ground, the other to 20' of bare copper wire, tie a ball to the 20' of wire and throw the ball across the nearest high tension powerline to see what happens.

That Monty Python sketch was a classic.

You would certainly blow the traces off the bottom of the PCB, I've done it before. If it has a switching power supply, any number of things could be wrong. If it's linear, just keep disonnecting things in the circuit till it stops blowing fuses.

Okay, thanks. :)

I don't trust rednecks or their "engineering" (spent enough time around them to know better), though I have Mac Guivered/jury riged some stuff back to life. There comes a point when one has tried fuses so large that one may as well connect one prong of the plug to ground, the other to 20' of bare copper wire, tie a ball to the 20' of wire and throw the ball across the nearest high tension powerline to see what happens.

That Monty Python sketch was a classic.

You guys DO know that I was just being facetious & Pulling Your Legs, don't you ? While I think bringing some dead veteran back to life is a worthwile & Noble cause, something like this is, well, prolly NOT worth it, as if it has at least THIS Fatal Flaw, how many OTHERS is it likely to have...OTOH, this is truly a challenge for our cumulative restoration/diagnostic skills. And I KNOW we have them here...This group is likely BETTER engineers than the bunch that designed this wretched piece to begin with, as they were looking to try to make something that "worked" at the most minimal cost imaginable, rather than give the BEST performance possible...

"This group is likely BETTER engineers than the bunch that designed this wretched piece to begin with..."

Amen to that! There are countless amazing minds here...I'm sure that we can get it running again, if not better than before!:thmbsp: