Hey guys,

Do you know the value of the resistor (cooked in half) that comes off pin 11 of the 6LB6 Horiz output tube? starts with orange it looks like.

This set had a vertical linearity issue after warmup, think it's a power resistor. Ceramic green I believe, it's wasted as well, but I installed a cap backwards and destroyed a small 1/2 watt resister off the Horiz out tube..
Thanks
SHawn

I don't have that exact schematic at my fingertips, but looking through a Tekfax I have here at home (my Sams are at my work location) yields differences - On one chassis, (12BC50) there is a 470 ohm 1/2W resistor tied to pin 3 and 11 on the 6LB6 on one end and to a yoke plug interlock on the other. Through the interlock, it ultimately goes to a 390V source.

On yet another set, the same two pins of the 6LB6 are tied to a 3.3K 7W resistor, and then to a 270V source.

If it was a 470 ohm 1/2W (yellow violet brown color code), it would darken the yellow band to orange....


Hope this helps,

Hey Brian, you were spot on with that 470 ohm resistor. That brought my picture bac. Im back to the orig issue. There is a 17k green ceramic heat resistor coming off the other side of the yoke interlock (i believe). The odd thing is if I put my VDM on the rersistor when the set is on, i get full raster! But then it smokes the 470 ohm resistor coming off pin 11 of the HOT..

BTW heres what im getting. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Im stumped here..
Thanks!

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx37/infinitereality9/IMG_0111.jpg

Wow, thats a unique symptom! I'll check out the schematics. So do you have a full screen on initial warm up? How long before this happens? Do you hear a distintive rather loud pulsing sound coming from the vertical output transformer?
Just out of curiosity, do you have pics of this set posted somewhere?

Hey Doug,
Never have a full screen, actually it seems as if it got worse. As it comes up this is how it is. Now if you turn up the brightness, then it blomms to the point to where there in no raster at all. No pulsing sounds either out of the vertical output trans. I do have vertical hold in this condition too. I have pics on photobucket..
Here's another of the set.

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx37/infinitereality9/IMG_0083.jpg

000

It looks like a shorted yoke to me.

Zenith was famous for shorted yokes in their hybrid sets, but I remember usually it was only the vertical windings. That looks like something is WAY loading the whole power supply down. There are sometimes some ceramic disk caps inside the yoke cover, which rarely but sometimes do short. If the yoke is shorted, it can wreck the flyback. Did that problem start right away when you got the set home? I last powered it up about a year ago, and it had a full picture. Just focus problems, and this, that & the other... I wonder if something got jarred, such as a screw falling onto the chassis and lodging between a couple of those strip terminals? That's happened to me many times on those Zeniths.

Charles

Actually it started with a vertical linearity issue. As the set warned up the lineraty went nuts. I found a leaky 50v 100mfd cap. I replaced it with a new one backwards. I since straightned it out and this is the result. The cap did not blow up or anything but there is a what seems to be a 17 k high wattage green resistor about 2" long gets mighty hot right off the bat. I probed it with my VOM and when I touched one leg the raster came back. But that in turn took out a 470ohm resistor that goes off pin 11 of the HOT and the other side to an orange wire going up the the yoke. The other orange wire from the yoke goes to the 17k resistor. But I think I originally screwed something up by replacing that cap backwards. I'm thinking either I destroyed the yoke or the vert out transformer or maybe its simple.

Perhaps you cooked a transistor with the reversed polarity of the cap. The 20BC50 is mostly all tubes but it does have a vertical blanking transistor and a transistor for the pincushion correction which can be affected by improper cap placement. At this stage, I'd take a guess thats what may have happened if this was not a symptom beforehand.

If you want to rule out power supply issues for reassurance, check for these two B+ voltages:

390v at the half circle (80@475) on the filter can.
250v at the square (30@475) on the same filter can.

It looks like a shorted yoke to me.
Ditto for sure. Any 'trapezoidal' pattern is almost 100% indicative of the yoke being shorted.

Bill(oc)

Ok cool thanks for the input guys.I'm going to check the voltages on the caps tonight. I hope the yoke is not shorted. That would be a pita to find. I've got bigger fish to fry. Some dude smacked my wifes door on her car and bent the hinges so it won't close.

I hope you don't have a shorted yoke, and that you find the problem soon... But if it stays unconfirmed, and you come down this way again soon, you're welcome to bring the chassis and we'll hook it up on my test jig. That's a quick & dirty way to confirm the yoke or not. OR, if another AKer up in your area has one......

Charles

Well, it's not looking good.
I have 400v at the half circle and 250v or so at the square. I havent done the research but is it possible to try the yoke from another Zenith set to confirm? I have a 1967 25XC38 I believe it is.

Well I pulled the vert blanker and pincushion correction transistors. No change. Actually what's more strange is I can't even hear the vert output xformer at all. Im wondering if I am getting proper voltages to the yoke and vert transformer.. I almost thinking that half the chassis is dead.

Hey guys. I'm pretty confident that my vertical output transformer is not operating. How can I test and verify this with a volt meter? Thanks

I got that Sams in the mail, a day late. I jotted down the yoke part numbers if you need them (not in front of me though.)

There is a trick for testing the vertical circuit on older bw sets, not sure if it will work on this though. You connect a cap (like a .047) from the filament to the vert osc. tube grid. This is where I have to check my notes-if you get deflection at one grid it points to the osc xsfmr, the other grid it is the output xsfmr.

You can disconnect the leads from that transformer and see if it is open with an ohmeter. That photo sure looks like a yoke. I would think many Zenith yokes would be close enough. When I was around 18 I had a couple Zeniths, one very close to yours, another that was probably among their first rectangular models. I had the newer one working fine but couldn't coax any life out of the oldie. One day I decided to swap the chassis. Biggest issue was that the yoke connectors were different. I didn't have a schematic to go by (and probably couldn't have read it, anyway) so I did the best I could splicing them. I crossed my fingers and actually got a raster, but never did anything else with it.

---

Think it would be best for me to wait for the sams that Bryan is sending me (thank you veery much Bryan) and lets see what I find. Also Charles is looking to see if he can find a yoke. If I could scope the waveform off the vertical transformer, I could start there to see whats going on hopefully.
Thanks guys for all your help.

Good luck Shawn, this one sounds like a real dog. I hope she runs for you.

Yes sir this ones a pickle! But thats the challenge. It's all good fun. Especially since it looks like my daily driver looks to be my Ctc17 RCA since the KV-36XBR800 pooped out on me again. So I'll be fixin me a Sony after this one.

What is it with those damned Sonys? On the Zenith, you're right about it being fun, it makes it much more enjoyable when it's working right after all the stuff that's wrong.

Is the sony flashing a code on the standby light?I fixed one that i dragged home by typing sony and the number of flashes into a search on the internet.Someone pointed me right to a defective ic.

Hey guys,
I've been poking around in thais chassis tonight with a meter and a sams and a cold one (pepsi).

Well im finding a load down of the 390v B+ supplying pin 10 of the 6JC5 vert output. There should be 322v there and at startup the voltage drop goes from 390 to 223v. Im finding this all over the 390v B+ for the sections requiring it. Actually at the source PS cap I get 400v and after a 22k 1/2w resistor (that is dark and overworking) it drops to 223v. So something is really loading down the 390v. I cannot seem to pinpoint but ill keep checking.

Oh yeah, about that 22k resistor. It measures 10k and I soldered in a new 22k in place. It's getting really hot.

Oh and I disconnected the yoke and the voltage drop is the same.. Also I cannot hear the cycle of the vert out transdformer like I can with other sets.

Hey guys. I spent mote time last night tracking down the gremlin in this set.

Off the filter can 1 square 40mfd 475v is the circuit in question. This can goes immediatly to a 22k resistor that is badly scorched beyond reading the color codes. Sams manual stateds this resistor is a 22k R136. This reststor out of circuit tests 10k. This supplies the 322v to pin 11 of the 6JC5. With this resistor in circuit at inital startup 400v creeps to 223v at raster. If I replace the resistor with what the SAMS states aS A 22 k then voltage at raster of pin 11 is 177v. So in my experience when a resistor heats up is loses resistance and climbs in value.

So theriotically (ya i messed that word up) if I put a 5k resistor in circuit of R136 then my voltage of pin 11 would increase more to my liking? Im stumped... And at this point I am ready to call it quits on this chassis...

Any info or input would greatly be appreciated.. This circuit is where I installed the 100mfd 50v cap backwards. And I have tested everything in this circuit I can )and with my equipment shy of an oscilloscope due to the fact that I dont know what to probe) I have tested and seems in spec.
Thanks!

Can the SAMS manual be wrong?

What happens if you pull the vertical output tube out? What else uses that supply. I wouldnt worry to much about the resistor for now, something is loading that supply down.

Dont trash that set! I would be willing to drive up there and save it.

Sorry to hear that it's being difficult... I've been preoccupied with this big fire here in Ventura County, so I didn't make it down to LA this week to check into a yoke. That same shop owner probably has the original Zenith manual, and I can probably take it if he does.

I've seen mistakes in Sams on many occasions, and usually it's an engineering update that took place after the Sams was published. Sams usually put out SSD pages in a later folder (supplemental service data), and that would show up in a newer Sams index. But I have the feeling that it's just a weird, hard-to-find problem. If I can get the manual, I'll take a look at it (no promises), and see if I can offer any pointers. Since the fire looks to be less of a problem today, evacuation is lifted as of last night, so I'm probably going to get back to normal activity by tomorrow, and should be able to go down to LA early next week.

Charles

Oh no I'd never trash a set. These puppies are gems. I'd just start another r project. If I pull the veritcal out there is still a loaddown and the flat vertical line does not meet the end ofthe CRT horizantally. I might still consider the yoke if the vert pin 11 didn't load down with the yoke unplugged but it still does.

Charles I prayin these fires get put out.. You live in a beautiful area and it's a damn shame for those who have lost it all. I feel for you guys down there. No rush on the set of course, it keeps me busy and of course always brain food.
Thanks for checkin it out though!

Sorry to hear that it's being difficult... I've been preoccupied with this big fire here in Ventura County, so I didn't make it down to LA this week to check into a yoke. That same shop owner probably has the original Zenith manual, and I can probably take it if he does.

I've seen mistakes in Sams on many occasions, and usually it's an engineering update that took place after the Sams was published. Sams usually put out SSD pages in a later folder (supplemental service data), and that would show up in a newer Sams index. But I have the feeling that it's just a weird, hard-to-find problem. If I can get the manual, I'll take a look at it (no promises), and see if I can offer any pointers. Since the fire looks to be less of a problem today, evacuation is lifted as of last night, so I'm probably going to get back to normal activity by tomorrow, and should be able to go down to LA early next week.

Charles

How about the horizontal output tube? Or remove the damper tube. If I had the schematic I would be a lot more help.

Hmmm I thought about it last night but never pulled them yet. I'll give it a shot.

Ok just noticed something tonight.. I pulled the 6JC5 vert out and got my vertical flatline like I figured would happen... But.. Pin 11 now has 390vdc with a new 22k resistor in r136 with the tube pulled where I was getting 233v w/ tube pulled and old resistor in place. So I have sufficcent DC on Pin 11 (too much but b/c tube is pulled so this is normal w/ no load on circuit)..

Here's the kicker. My vert flatline falls horizontally short on the right side about 2". So something is also loading down the horiz circuit too. Already changed 80mfd 475v caps and swapped wires on 30mfd 475v where the prob is so I know caps are not the issue even though they register good w. esr readings. So.. Even w/ yoke pulled off circuit and 6JC5 in place I still have a loaddown in the circuit. If yoke is shot would this cause a load as if it were disconnected from the circuit too?

What if the vertical output transformer had some shorted turns?

Thats a really good question! How do you suppose one finds out if it is shorted? Is there a way to ohm out the windings or such?

I've seen shorted vertical output transformers in Packard-Bell B&W sets, but I don't remember seeing one in a Zenith. But anything's possible.

Charles

Could a shorted vertical transformer affect horiz sweep circuits? I suppose the plate voltage comes from the same circuit.

I suppose it could if it was loading a supply voltage down. Let me think about testing for a few minutes. The sams should show an ohm reading but that may not be good enough to tell you if only a few turns are shorted.

Hmmmm, I just thought of something.. Im going to disconnect the supply voltage to the transformer and see if I het a horiz raster to fill the screen.

I just realized something else. If I flip the service switch to setup, this disables the vertical transformer's power source right? Well the horiz raster is still shrunk on the right..
The yoke still passes through the vert transformer even when the transformer's disabled in service mode. If I disconnect R136 off the 30mfd 475v filter that is the trouble circuit, horix raster is restored. This is the resistor that is overheating too...

With the set in setup (service switch to setup), if you have insufficient horizontal sweep, it could be either the yoke (seems to be shorted, with the keystone raster, the #1 clue) or the horizontal oscillator could be off-frequency (also possibly caused by a shorted yoke). When the short occurs, interaction between the horizontal and vertical circuits can lead to all sorts of odd readings.

Summer humidity here in Tidewater takes no prisoners - I've seen shorted yokes on just about every brand of TV. We used to coat replacement yokes (new and used) with a product called Humi-Seal. It worked great and seemed to work better than the spray sealant sold by General Cement. You can't get Humi-Seal anymore - blame the damn CFCs.

Good luck on the Zenith -

Cheers,

Yeah, the EPA pretty much halted anything thats worth a crap anymore.. too bad. Humi-Seal sounded like good stuff!

Well about the yoke.. Im not sure weather or not ohming it out against the SAMS is any help but correct me if im wrong..

There are 4 windings to a yoke. 2 of them are tied in series to the horiz sweep and 2 to the vertical sweep circuits. In the sams the vertical side should be 14 ohms and the horiz should be 9.2 ohms. Well these readings would be correct to my yoke if I double up the readings on each winding. Then the yoke ohms out to the readings in the SAMS which would tell me it's ok.

I can still presume it's shot cause you guys know a heck of a lot more than I do about these issues than I do..

Oh yeah,, I ohmed out the vertical transformer and all readings were within 1 ohm from the SAMS. So I guess that indicates that it's ok too?

And a couple of posts up I had mentioned that I could restore horiz raster w the circuit discooected from the filter. I was wrong, it's still short of filling the screen.
Thanks guys!

---

try taking off the yoke from the crt but connected, run the set for a few minutes (brightt down), then turn set off and feel the yoke for a hot spot.


I have never tried the above, but just got thru reading about checking a yoke for shorts.

You can do a ring test, but you need a yoke & flyback ringer... I have one, but that doesn't help unless you might be down this way some time in the foreseeable future. A ring test is usually fairly accurate. Also, for testing purposes, you can get away with wiring a yoke in from another color TV with the same type of horizontal output circuit; maybe even the other set you got from me. Or, the test jig idea. (PM sent on that subject!)


Charles

Well.. I might have pinned the tail on the donkey tonight.. I found what I believe to be a bad Pincushion correction amp transistor. NPN style, reads dead on my transistor checker. This is a high power transistor. I somehow overlooked testing this transistor early on.. Going to order it online.
Does this seem like if bad.. could cause this symptom? Other than this, I should ring test the yoke..

Looks as if in the sams this circuit carries into the pulse gate diode and

Without looking at the schematic, I'd say that you might be onto something... Is it shorted? Check it out of the circuit with a multimeter on diode scale (or 2K if no diode scale)... Measure from collector (most likely the case, if it's a T03 metal transistor), to base and to emitter. It should measure 600 ohms or so, one direction, but not the other, and not less than a few hundred ohms in either direction. (In some deflection transistors, there's a diode embedded inside, which will make the emitter to base read low in both directions, which is OK in that case, but not from collector to b or e, in any case).

Charles

Actually it measures open all around. There is no change in raster with the transiustor in our out of circuit.

Hey guys.
Well I got the new transistor in today for the pincushion correction amp. Shoot. No change. Guess I have to look upstrem and test voltages at the pins.

---

Yeah. Charles kx250rider is looking for a yoke for this set. I got another ctc 17 to mess with. I'll get back on this set when I find a yoke.

Hey all! Long time! I've had this Zenith in storage and wanting to get back into it. Please read earlier posts which led up to this disaster. Originally I swapped a dry electrolytic and put the new one in backwards.
Hope all of you have been well!
Haven't located a yoke yet btw

Hey all! Long time! I've had this Zenith in storage and wanting to get back into it. Please read earlier posts which led up to this disaster. Originally I swapped a dry electrolytic and put the new one in backwards.
Hope all of you have been well!
Haven't located a yoke yet btw

Got a means to ring the yoke? Eico, Sencore, Paco, and others made flyback/yoke ringers, and there is even a kit still available. Pretty conclusive test for yokes - rings bad, it is bad (except for some toroidial GE and Philco/Sylvania yokes).

I'll grab the Sams and take a look again - seems like Charles was following your repairs quite closely too.

Welcome back Sean!

Thanks Brian!

Sure looks like the yoke but almost too easy.
Keystoned pictures usually almost filled the screen
& this one is quite small. That makes me think
vert problem.
There are 4 lytics in the V out start with them.
Dont remember which but one causes odd problems
IIRC. Yokes were trouble but I saw few because I was a
bench tech so worked on very few consoles, just
jig work. Yokes got changed in the house.
If it were me I would take any old Zenith yoke
& mouse it in for a test. Most other 90 deg yoke.
probably would work enuf for a test also.
Also consider a ringer. Very accurate & useful.
Better yet an analist that does much more.

73 Zeno:smoke:

I haven't seen anything about voltage readings on all the tube pins of the vert
output tube, and is the first grid on spec...? any DC getting in there will drive it
too hard, but still may allow some deflection..... And surely cause over current
draw.... Is there a current reading for the cathode...? I don't have a schematic
of this tv, so I'm only guessing at some of the comments here....

Also, on the yoke, I don't think it's the problem, but I see comments about
measuring vert winding, and horiz winding, but did you check for a short
horiz to vert windings....? Same with vert out transformer, Not in windings
but short one winding to ground...? or serious leakage to ground.....

I can't imagine where an open pincushion transistor would cause current draw
loading like that.... You have something on too hard.....


.

Actually a few years back I did test the yoke and found no shorts. I will go on to testing the v out tube next. And v out xformer. Thanks guys

Well hello all! Been a while now! Believe it or not, my daughter was only 6 months old when I started this thread! Shes 10 now and have had 2 boys in the process, ages 4 and 6. I decided to take on this beast again.. it's been sitting in the same place forever.

Anyone miss me? Lol.

Anyway still same issue. Keystone effect and low B+ off the 390v supply. something is loaded down. Resistor getting hot off the square of the filter capacitor, which is original. I should probably recap that section. if you remember reading back, I installed a 100uf cap backwards. it caused this after my mishap. the whole set seems to be loaded down. No sound of vert xformer, probably from low voltage. heres the kicker, if I put the tv into service mode via the switch, the raster line is cut short on the right side of the screen so horiz is cut too. Obviously from the 277v where the 390v should be. I lost the SAMS a member sent me years back..
With the yoke disconnected, still have the load down..

Any fresh ideas?

Thanks all

I might be able to scan you the schematic (though I think I loaned it to a friend with the parts chassis I have).

Definitely recap the lytics and vertical, and get a schematic. My 20CC50 table set is an excellent performed and virtually the same chassis so yours should be a very good set once you get the problems sorted.

Dang chassis. I gotta pull it to read the ratings on the filters. Now I recapped half of them back in 09. Not sure why I left the square and one half moon on the original cans. That square, off of that goes to a paper yellow 475v 10mfd right off the cap I installed backwards I update soon.

OK so I'm sure I checked this before but I guess I overlooked I retested the 6LB6 horizontal output on my to tester, it's not even registering on the needle, it's obviously bad.

I have never had a tube not even move the test needle. is this even possible to produce a picture like this if the tube is in fact bad? And could installing a capacitor backwards cause a tubt to go bad all the sudden? Doesn't the H output create the B+ that seems to be loaded down?

Unfortunately o do not have a substitute replacement so it will have to be ordered.

If the H output tube was stone dead (or even heavily weak) you would either have no raster or severe horizontal underscan.

In tube TVs the B+ is NOT created by the horizontal system. Most sets the B+ is derived from the 60Hz power transformer and is never above 450V. The horizontal does supply the "B+ Boost" rail (sometimes noted as "B++") which is typically 600-1500V, and supplies the high side of the screen/G2 pots, part of the vertical, the HV reg and sometimes 1-2 other things...Boost is low current so it doesn't supply many stages and is usually more of a voltage reference.

Ok now I see that the secondary test on the H osc 6U10 is weak. Primary test shown right in the good section. This is odd, as I'm pretty sure I checked all the tubes back in 09 and they tested good. What I might be dealing with may be a TV with a bunch are weak tubes. I find it odd that the picture only did this after I replaced this cap.

2nd picture is the the resistor off of the horizontal output I had to replace from it burning in half after I probed that 17k green ceramic resistor under it. That resistor gets mighty hot right off the bat.

Also if I pull the H osc 6U10, I can hear the chassis sound like its actually working. Vert xformer sounds like its alive. With the osc installed everything sounds dead.

Ok new H output tube installed. same issue. Actually the problem has perceived to get worse. Now I have a faint line dimly out of focus that goes 4" on each side so obviously b+ is loaded down. Now getting about 237v on the b+. What I'm finding out when I flip the normal/setup switch from normal to set up which disables the vertical output transformer the b+ goes back up to normal 380 or so volts. Also there is a distinct difference between the damper tube when the transformer is enabled to when it's disabled. You can actually see it get brighter! I'm fairly confident that the vertical output transformer is shorted. It's a zenith part no. 95-2551.

Any quick and dirty way without having a ringer to tell if this thing is actually bad?

If I suppose that something else on the b+ could be shorted and when the transformer is enabled its drawing the current down way too far because there's barely enough there to begin with..

picture is when tv is in normal with vert transformer enabled.

Along with this, I can see convergence flickering around. of course the windings of the vertical transformer outputs to the convergence circuits.

Going in blind without the sams..

If the vertical osc if not working and the output tube is running full tilt on constantly that will load down the B+.

Well another interesting conundrum. I noticed the blue output wire of the vertical out transformer that goes into pin6 of the 6JB5 vertical output is only putting out 10v in normal, 233v in service. With yoke disconnected, pin 6 goes to 390v! You guys are right about the shorted yoke it sounds. problem is trying to sub in a replacement.

I think I'm going to try the pull the yoke method there's any hot spots after about one minute of running

I parted out one of these sets a while back. I probably still have the yoke (or a compatible Zenith yoke) if you need it.

Nice. It's a 95-2896 Holland. It's not getting hot powering up off the CRT. Of course its probably not a conclusive test..

Here's the deal. Blue wire coming out of vertical output transformer that goes into in 6 of vertical output tube with or without the yoke connected, Upon start up shoots from 390 V down to 26 V DC. If I put the set in setup mode which kills power to the vertical output transformer the output of the blue wire going in to pin 6 is 390 V DC if yoke is disconnected. if yoke is connected I get 107vdc on pin 6 when vertical transformer is enabled.

Not entirely sure of what this means. If the yoke is pulling current and there's not enough left over on the boost rails to supply everything with proper voltage. Or if the vertical output transformer white shorted. But if it was shorted how could it put out 390 V if it's picking up 390 v on the red wire from the filter cap. Oddly in setup mode the red wire at the filter is also 390 V with no yoke.

By the way I have to run the set for 5 minutes with the yoke sitting on a plastic bucket connected to the chassis. Nothing even remotely gets warm on the yoke

Ok. Hmmmm. Think I found it. What is this pot. Unfortunately i dont have the cage cover. Which i probably do need. Anyway this pot is completely melted. And when i bumped it it started letting iut the magic smoke. its located right next to the focus pot.

It's started making all sorts of weird noises and the picture went nuts and the horizontal flatline started shifting all over and shrinking in. The red wire goes directly to the yoke. Blue goes to chassis.

That pot should be horizontal centering.

Ok. Its reading 9ohms both directions. and shorted out and crusty. It started making a sizzling sound when I touched it and the stem fell off.

Looks as if the adjust wire is in fact the red wire that goes to pin 1 to the yoke. It appears after disassembling the potentiometer, the red wire was shorted to the casing. Found a rough schematic online, this does to the 2kv boost rail.

I took the potentiometer out of circuit upon power up provides a nice bright red dot out of focus in the middle of the screen so I immediately powered it off. I guess this has something to do with power going to the yoke looking at my "close enough " schematics. It feeds the 2kv line and looks as itlf it can affect the 390v. I found the pot on the bay, new old stock, 15 bucks... guess it's worth a shot. Needs to be replaced anyway.

Well here is my hacked in temporary fix for that horizontal centering pot issue. Restored my raster. But as you can tell, vertical deflection is a no go.

At least the horizontal line now fills the screen with the vertical transformer disabled.

Voltage at red wire of filters now a steady 390v with vertical out transformer disabled.

Having a good feeling the vertical output transformer is shot now. Looking for a substitute. Zenith part number 95-2551.

Anyone possibly have one?

Thanks!

If you are not in a hurry I may be able to get the one off my parts chassis...Which I loaned to a friend.

That would be awesome! Looks like the removal is straight forward. thanks Tom

Btw I'm getting 4 ohms to ground of the chassis on the green wire, 5 ohms on green/white wire, 43 ohms green/red. Orange and orange/white is open to ground, and black, black/white is open. This is of course with the convergence plug disconnected.

Oh and 460 ohms between red and blue. Sounds kind of low.

I've scanned the Zenith issued schematic, chassis layout, parts list and waveforms...PM me your email and I will send it to you.

My 20BC50 parts chassis is also back from the friend I loaned it to... I can't guarantee all the parts are there or good but I can send you parts from it.

I would go for vertical output transformer. I have had a number fail. The yoke would make a keystone picture if bad.

That's where I'm going with this one. Well see what happens.