Got this for the price of a 1/2 tank of gas (free tv, I just had to pick it up).

If the chassis is as nice as the cabinet it should be a breeze to get going again.

You can't see the top, but the finish is mint.

Nice set! You'll probably be home free if the flyback and CRT are good.

I will have to put this one on the back burner, still have to finish up the big console (refinishing that is), and find a proper home inside the house, then I have the other maggie stereo console I got a week ago to work on (all tube, 6bq5 pp micromatic TT) also in need of a refinish, and a home inside.

My poor car is having to deal with a florida summer out side for the 1st time in 17 yrs.

yikes, looked at the flyback, not pretty.
Hopefully it still works, but if not anybody know fo a vendor that has old flybacks?

crt was weak but rejuvenated ok, cut of is just ok.

B+ is shorted causing the CB to break. next up is the fiter caps for a quick leak test at rate voltage...

i have a bunch od merit flybacks . If you can cross the original part number to a merit i will check if i have it

I found one from moyer electronics, if for some reason that does not work out I will get then numbers to you, thanks.

My new problem may be the PT, I think there is a short in the secondary HV to ground causing the B+ to short out, got some more checking to do (I need to disconnect the PT secondary to be sure, but seems to be the case).

good news just some leaking filter caps and doubler cap. will restuff and continue. Got the new flyback today, very nice NOS, I hope I dont have to use it but good to have in case I do. Should be getting the B+ fixed by next week (have to order the caps). Bunch of bad tubes, 1 in the tuner, 3 in the IF strip, one in the audio board, and one on the on the vert board. Yikes, this thing needed more than 50% new tubes.

alright now!!

replaced both doublers, restuffed one of the cans (will do the other later), works GREAT!!!

that old beat up flyback works fine, but at least I have an old one JIC...

Pics later. I still need to restuff the remaining can cap for relialbitiy, but other than that this one is fine. The CRT looks nice too, bright with good contrast.

as a precaution, I measured the cathode current on the horz output tube, it was right on the money per the schematic, so even though the flyback looks like it belongs in the garbarge, it seems to be working ok. I will leave it alone.

That set sure has a pretty cabinet. Someone took good care of it. Very simple cabinet, but in this case, less is more! Does the automatic brightness sensor work well on it?

the cabinet is nearly Mint which was my motivation for getting it (that and the fact that the guy said he would give it to me, he was glad to hear that it would not be junked, but rather fixed and used, he like me appreciated old stuff).

Yes the auto bright adj works very well indeed.

The simple cabinet it timeless, very classy looking. The only problem it has is the tuner knob is kinda loose, not sure what is going on there. I don't think it is the tuner itself, just the knob.

oh one other thing it has a audio tone control, very nice.

The only problem it has is the tuner knob is kinda loose, not sure what is going on there. I don't think it is the tuner itself, just the knob.


Does the knob use one of those little flat tabs inserted in the hole? If the little tab is missing, it won't fit snug at all. If you have a box of knobs, you can likely pull from from Paul to pay Peter.

I will check and see, thanks for the suggestion.

almost done, got the remainging caps from mouser, so will be stuffing the remainging can and replacing one axial lead cap, also need to replace a couple out of spec power resistors. Mainly was waiting on the caps.

Hope to move this one out of the garge soon, my car wants back in :)

whew done....

restuffed the last can cap (4 section shorty), replaced 4 power resistors (all out of spec, one was 100% out of spec). The only thing I did not do that I wanted was to replace the old diodes, and add a dropping resistor. The diodes are fine, but very old, and the B+ is high by about 20v (maybe just the increase in line voltage, plus my doublers are 147 vs 130, but that is just a guess). I will make up the new diode pair with a 2 ohm dropping resistor built in. The neat thing about it is the diode mount on the top of the chassis with female spade connectors, so I can do it with out pulling the chassis.

I was also thinking about adding a thermistor to the B+ to slow the power up and let the tube come up to heat before the full B+ gets to them. I may put it in line with the switch to soften the blow to the switch, not sure about all that.

I think the contrast has improved with the recap, I may be imagining it but I don't think so.

I hope to get it setup in the living room, will then be able to watch TCM old movies from the 40's and 50's

The Tingler
The Blob
Casablanca
The day the earth stood still
House on haunted hill (orig of course)
The Haunting (orig again)
Psycho
The Foutain head
High noon
Sargent York
Stalag 17
Invasion of the body snatchers
Tarzan (all with the real Tarzan and Jane of course)

just for starters

TV
Outer limits
twilite zone
andy griffith show
you bet your life
perry mason
drag net
wild wild west
the munsters

Gosh so much good stuff, yet very little of it on cable....

I would love to have an outlaw analog tv station

with all the channels we have it is amazing the lack of good programming, and they don't even have to make new stuff just play the GREAT programming from back in the 30s-60's

Sounds good, looking forward to some pics. I'm glad you got 'er finished. That's a nice looking set.

been having some issues with the spot that results when you turn of the set, not sure why this one does it an my other does not, but a quick fix was to put a resistor/cap in series from the crt cathode to ground. The cap charges during normal viewing, when you turn the set off, the cap discharges into the cathode holding it positive while it cools off biasing the tube for about 15 seconds, no spot. I was worried that it could burn the CRT.

I tried sever RC combinations, 470k and 22uf seems the best for spot control with miminmal impact on time it takes for the full brightness to be achieved when the set is turned on. Again this is just a series connection from the cathode to the ground. during operation the cathode has a positive charge, when the set is turned off this charge goes away, and the spot comes on (very bright dead center of the screen). by using the RC combo the cathode maintains a positive charge long enough for it to cool down and stop emitting.

update on this set, I think I lost a lot of post but it is the one that was having the hula problem, or snaking or maybe even weaving.

bottom line is there was a low freq low amplitude wave that would work thru the screen. You could see it on vertical lines. the wave would repeat about every 15 seconds and would deflect the vertical lines (like a foot ball field) about 3/16 of an inch.

I was able to get rid of it if I powered the vert sync tubes heaters with DC.
no HK shorts (swapped tubes from a working set).

tried cleaning PCB traces along the filament trace, no help

had all new E caps (filter/decouple/doubler)

finally got it licked by adding a direct ground connection from the two vert tubes to the chassis ground.

Those two tubes use the PC traces for a heater ground return, and the PC trace is grounded via some solder fingers that press against the chassis.

I may have been able to just tighten up the screws, but I figured the direct wire to chassis was more of a sure thing. Seems kind of lame to rely on just a press contact point for a ground. The horz osc tube had its own factory ground wire, and did not rely on the pcb for a ground path on the heater.

any way it did tighten up all the pcb screws on all the boards jic.

anyway learned something new, small problems (the wave was very minor but there) often have small causes (I prob could have fixed it by just tighting up the screws).

Small causes can still be hard to find, maybe harder since they are not obvious. But anyway you can bet for now on all pcb screws will be checked 1st thing.

Glad you found your problem! I've heard many guys here emphasize checking ground connections... especially between circuit board and chassis.

roger that Charlie, you can bet that is the 1st thing I will check on any set I get that has PCB's for now on :)

I am just glad it is working, It was really starting to bug me.

the screws were not loose, but I was able to tighten them all up about 1/4 turn. I guess with age it was just enough oxidation to cause a problem.

I have another maggie with the same chassis and you can bet I am going to check them.

Update"

Got the new CRT tester (Sencore CR-70) tube show nothing on emissons and cutoff, according the the "beam rebuilder" guide I did rejuvenate, nice little sparks fly in the CRT neck and I am think Oh fudge now what have I done. Anyway checked and solid in the good and great cut off.

I turn it on and the focus is much better and the picture looks pretty darn good. I hope this fix last.

I like the Sencore.