Here is the old Zenith console that I've been watching at the local junk store for several weeks. It went from being "valuable" to "it's too old; get it out of here." I did peek into the back and noticed that the tripler has been replaced and some hack tech replaced the can filter cap by taping another can to the side. I'll certainly need to clean up that mess. It also still has the white safety caps that need to be changed. This will certainly be a keeper if I can make a place for it. Of course, the model tag is gone! Maybe someone can identify it or give me more information from the pictures. OK, I'm now going to try to get the pictures to come up...

Dang it!! the pictures ain't working (as usual) and I don't have the patience to screw with it!! If anyone would like to see a picture; I will email them to you.

I did fire it up and the channel change motor runs non stop. It also will not turn on with the remote. I'm going to try to get the pictures to come up later today.

I did fire it up and the channel change motor runs non stop. It also will not turn on with the remote. I'm going to try to get the pictures to come up later today.

Here's a picture:

Here's some more pictures. Yes, I know they look like crap; but, you get the idea of what I have.

This has a defective channel change switch (p/n 85-1412) that is causing the motor to run constantly. The switch checks fine and I've tried cleaning it. I'd be happy to buy a good switch if anyone has one.

I like the look of that set! The fact that it uses a motor for the tuner at all is interesting enough.

As you probably can tell, I am a big fan of any Zenith set from the beginning all the way til the late 80s. Have quite a few, also. And I must say that yours has a very nice look to it, doesn't matter that the pics aren't spectacular; mine rarely are!

So how are you liking yours?

I like the look of that set! The fact that it uses a motor for the tuner at all is interesting enough.

As you probably can tell, I am a big fan of any Zenith set from the beginning all the way til the late 80s. Have quite a few, also. And I must say that yours has a very nice look to it, doesn't matter that the pics aren't spectacular; mine rarely are!

So how are you liking yours?

Thanks for the nice comments. So far, I'm liking it real well. Will like it better once I get it going. I just wish the cabinet was real wood; not particle board and plastic. But; the chassis is built like a tank! I did check the CRT with a B&K 480 tester and the green gun worries me a little. That gun just barely reaches the cutoff mark but the emission goes over halfway into the green. The other two guns reach the cutoff mark at a more reasonable point and also test very strong. I'll see what the picture looks like before I rejuvenate it. I'm amazed that the tube is as good as it is seeing as how the set has instant on. That feature will be disabled once I get the other problems fixed. Another big problem will be trying to find a spot for it once it's fixed. I probably just need to toss the late '90's Zenith big screen that I know I'll never fix...

I do apologize for my little rant at the beginning about the pictures not coming up. Sometimes, I get real ticked at my overpriced, dial up internet connection!

I have found that instant on never seemed to kill Zenith tubes. Don't zap the tube unless you can't get the gray scale to track. If I remember correctly the transformer for the instant on is part of the filament supply when the set is running so it is not removable.
I’m sure it can be setup to turn on and off with the main transformer. Don’t forget to check the white high voltage hold down caps on that chassis I bet at least one is bad and your high voltage will be too high.

I have found that instant on never seemed to kill Zenith tubes. Don't zap the tube unless you can't get the gray scale to track. If I remember correctly the transformer for the instant on is part of the filament supply when the set is running so it is not removable.
I’m sure it can be setup to turn on and off with the main transformer. Don’t forget to check the white high voltage hold down caps on that chassis I bet at least one is bad and your high voltage will be too high.

Those caps are certainly on the "hit list" before I'm done with the set. I've only seen one Zenith CCII with a dead tube. It was an early upright chassis with instant on and I think that tube was a non-Zenith. Probably installed when the 4 lead white cap failed and caused the HV to wipe out the original CRT. Still, that dead tube rejuved good and I was able to find a home for the set. I don't plan to rejuv the tube in this set unless I have no other option. There used to be a idiot tech in this town that would rejuv the crap out of later model tubes when the CRT was not causing the problem. I'll bet he caused the early death to a lot of CRT's!

I was wondering, you said that the fault was a bad switch, but it tests good? Could it be too far away or too close to the cam? Just wondering, Logan

I was wondering, you said that the fault was a bad switch, but it tests good? Could it be too far away or too close to the cam? Just wondering, Logan

It's strange to me. I can disconnect the switch and the motor stops. When I reconnect the switch; the motor starts. The switch test good with a meter and I've tried cleaning it. I've got a new switch on the way. We'll just see what happens. I've seen the function switches malfunction on modern sets and cause all sorts of goofy symptoms; even though the switch checked good with an ohmmeter.

I don't think i understand, which switch this is. Is this a pushbutton switch on the front of the TV to change channels, or is it a microswitch that is activated by the tuner gears? Logan

I don't think i understand, which switch this is. Is this a pushbutton switch on the front of the TV to change channels, or is it a microswitch that is activated by the tuner gears? Logan

This is a small spring loaded switch on the front of the TV to change channels. The center is off, move it up to go higher, move it down to go lower. I can disconnect it and the motor does not run constantly. It starts running constantly when I re-connect the switch. This switch is connected to the circuitry that operates the channel change motor. I can jump the switch connectors (with the switch out of circuit) with a jumper wire and it changes channels as it should. The old switch must have developed a very high resistance leak that is not showing up on the ohm meter.

Ah! Ok!, i was thinking this was a internal switch, not a user control switch. Sorry about that. Yeah it looks like you need a new one. Logan