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  #76  
Old 11-02-2010, 01:17 PM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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Yeah, there seem to be a number of variations on what that first dot represents. Type (paper or mica), 1st digit, or voltage rating.
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Last edited by bandersen; 11-02-2010 at 01:21 PM.
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  #77  
Old 11-02-2010, 02:06 PM
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Here's another curious thing I found in this set. A string of five 1W resistors in the video amp. 5.1K + 5.1K + 5.1K + 5.6K + 5.6K = 26.5 K


The schematic actually calls for three 11K + 10K + 5.1K = 26.1K. There aren't any taps and it's not high voltage so I assume it's to create the oddball value of 26.1 K ?


The vertical oscillator and amp circuitry was so hacked up I stripped it down and rebuilt it with the correct values. I couldn't find a 0.062 uF in tubular form so went with the boxy PC mount package.

I mostly used new carbon composition resistors and Cornell Dubilier poly caps. I didn't bother restuffing them since most had been replaced anyway.

On the far left there's a 2.2 M resistor that's open and was repaired with a 5.6M dogbone Most of the other old replaced caps and resistors were the wrong value too.
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Last edited by bandersen; 11-02-2010 at 07:56 PM.
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  #78  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:59 PM
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Bob,

I am sure that you figured out the .05µFD at 400 volt molded capacitor is a paper cap disguised in that brown plastic.

As for the resistors that are twisted together, I found the same thing in my Admiral 26R12. It was explained that it was very common to use this kind of resistor combination in the early 50s. It was cited that there may have been a shortage (no pun intended ) of resistors when the TV was constructed. May be true... might be myth. But I removed all of that bogus looking crap too...
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  #79  
Old 11-02-2010, 11:32 PM
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Yep, that .05 is history

I've seen resistors combined in early 50s sets too, but not in a '48 set and not 5 in series... It's tempting to just stick a 27K in there, but I'll leave it for now and see how it goes.
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  #80  
Old 11-03-2010, 03:08 AM
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Wow, this sure is gonna be a beautiful set! I like the style of that cabinet. Can't say that I've seen many like that, with the table legs and all. But man, I know if it were me, I'd be getting clumsy with the soldering iron working on that chassis! It's pretty crowded under there, to say the least. How soon do you suppose you'll be able to power it up?
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  #81  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:05 PM
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Thanks. I think you might be confusing this tabletop set with the long legged Philco 49-1040 I'm also restoring. I know my head is spinning working on two sets at once...

I've removed the three electrolytics cans for restuffing. First though, I'm just going to tack the new ones in place and try firing it up. Probably tomorrow
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  #82  
Old 11-03-2010, 06:25 PM
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Whoops! You're right, I had the Philco's cabinet stuck in my head when I was commenting on this one! This is the GE with the pretty solid-brass control panel on the front. I remember the video you had of it before you recapped it, with the jazz music playing on it. Yep... that's what I get for posting when I'm half-asleep!

Alrighty, well I'll be looking forward to seeing how it runs with the new caps! Looking back, I don't recall you posting much about the electronics in the Philco. How far along are you on that one?
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  #83  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:35 PM
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I have ordered most of the parts and I've studied the dirty, rusty chassis. I've never worked on a 40's Philco before so I fear it's going to take a while. I think I'll take a break and do a quick radio before I dig into it.

Anyway, here's an update on this set.
The cabinet is just about done. I've refinished the front wood piece and repainted the light green screen surround. The "Green Apple" paint is a pretty good match.

First, I scraped the old paint off then sanded and sealed with shellac.


Then, I masked off the cabinet and put a box inside to block the paint getting all over. I think it turned out real nice


Next I'm going to very, very carefully try to clean the old grille cloth.
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Last edited by bandersen; 11-04-2010 at 01:07 AM.
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  #84  
Old 11-04-2010, 05:21 PM
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Did we talk on the phone as to how to clean the grillecloth, Bob?
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  #85  
Old 11-04-2010, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3-SRT8 View Post
Did we talk on the phone as to how to clean the grillecloth, Bob?
Yes, I believe so. I sprayed it with some carpet cleaner, let it sit a while then soaked it in warm water and mild laundry detergent with no dye or perfume. I then laid it out on a bath towel to slowly air dry.
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  #86  
Old 11-04-2010, 08:11 PM
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Did all the soot leach out of the cloth? Is it still in one piece?
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  #87  
Old 11-04-2010, 09:29 PM
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Yes, it turned out well. Any more aggressive and I think it would have fallen apart.
Any thoughts on how to glue it back on ? It's going to be tricky because of the large open area I think. I can't really stretch it.
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  #88  
Old 11-05-2010, 05:44 AM
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Verrry tricky. I would say use a light duty spray mount that will allow you to GENTLY reposition the grillcloth, if you have to.

I would start with the top edge. Spray, or dab, a half inch wide strip of spray mount along the top of the faceboard. Then, LIGHTLY stretch the fabric along the top, just enough so it fills the frame, and lines up properly.

Then do the LEFT side, the same way, lightly stretching the fabric. Repeat with the remaining sides, being REAL careful with small strips of fabric around the CRT edges.
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  #89  
Old 11-05-2010, 05:44 AM
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You could find some thin substrate and spray the substrate with 3M 77 spray glue.
Then put the cloth on the substrate.
Then make cutouts for the opening.
Downside is the cloth may have shrunk and then it won't fit.
Hmmm. Might be tricky to glue that cloth directly to the TV.
I gave up on my Zenith and went to a fabric store for a close enough match.
Let us know how you tackle this.

Carl
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  #90  
Old 11-05-2010, 05:58 AM
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OR, you could make a jig out of 1" thick material that follows the frame of the front piece. Maybe styrofoam. Cut it to follow the contours of the front panel, place it on the bench, place the fabric on it, with the to be glued side facing out. Position and pre stretch the fabric on the jig so it lines up perfectly with the front of the faceplate on the cabinet. Do a few dry runs before you use the spray mount. Spray the ENTIRE front mounting surface. Use a light coat of spraymount so it doesn't bleed through the grillcloth.

Then, press the grillcloth into place with the styrofoam jig.

I like the substrate idea as well.

Veerry touchy work here...
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