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#61
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You could probably bring the chassis there if your careful, and no one there is going to mistreat it.
Of course it might be time to get a 25$ soldering iron, and an order of caps. I used to work on the floor for the better part of a decade until I got my first work bench.....I can't tell you how many holes in carpet that I've melted.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#62
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Just pull the chassis. The CRT is usually mounted on it on
big Zeniths. Typically 4 bolts from under, then the 1/4 inch holding the tuner & vol. control. Carry with the CRT face against you so you know where the CRT neck is all the time. Weight is better distributed that way too. You may need an extra long 1/4", I will dig up the part # for it later. 73 Zeno ![]() Quote:
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#63
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I unscrewed the chassis and pulled it back about 3 inches yesterday to vacuum the dust out. Perhaps I'll pull it out the rest of the way to make notes of the capacitors and resistors.
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#64
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You should make the investment in fixing it before going on and replacing all the caps.
That way you get to see if the nearly impossible to get parts are working... Picture tube, yoke, flyback, etc. Just my 4 cents.... Good Luck... High pitch squeel = Horizizontal section. Pungent odor = Burning parts, flyback, yoke, resistor, mouse..... . .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" |
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#65
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Quote:
I guess, I was lucky that I gained experience, hanging around a TV shop, all the summer of 1957. I learned how to change CRT's, replace components and minor troubleshooting. That was before I started doing it on my own. |
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#66
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I can't figure out how to get the chassis out. There are wires going from the chassis to the tuner and power-volume knob. I don't see any logical way to disconnect any of them. I want to at least take the chassis and tube downtown this weekend.
Last edited by TUD1; 08-07-2016 at 10:20 PM. |
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#67
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The tuner comes out with the chassis, remove the knobs and the screws at the back and the whole thing should slide back and out.
Judging by those slotted holes on the bracket, there's probably a place on the chassis where it can be bolted on while servicing it. |
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#68
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Yeah, the tuner and volume control sub-chassis should be removable by just removing knobs and some screws.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#69
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The volume/power also has to come out.
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#70
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Once you get the chassis out, I would recommend removing the picture tube (very carefully!) and finding a place to safely store it. If there's space in a closet, that's a good location but make sure nothing can fall on it. Then you can move the chassis around for restoration without risking CRT damage. You won't need the picture tube again until ALL of the capacitors, with the possible exception of the square micas, have been replaced and out of tolerance resistors have been replaced. Somewhere along the way you will need to have the tubes tested and a continuity test done on the flyback (Horizontal Output Transformer).
Phil Nelson's site has an excellent article on replacing capacitors: HTML Code:
http://www.antiqueradio.org/recap.htm |
| Audiokarma |
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#71
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On mine, which is about a year older, it had a raster and I recapped it a few at a time (doing test power-ups every few caps). I prefer to service those with the tube in place since it is easier to get and keep the chassis on it's side with the tube mounted. The whole chassis/tube assembly on those is pretty solid, and as long as you don't smack the neck real good or take a sledge hammer to anything else, it should be fine.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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