Sylvania console - Page 5 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

DaveWM · #61 01-30-2010, 10:28 PM

looks like mouser has them if my surplus place is out.

DaveWM · #62 01-31-2010, 12:23 PM

I did not realize how easy it was to pop the whole board out, so back in the day did shops just relace the whole board or do componet level repairs?

Now that I have it out I will start checking all the caps.

Charlie · #63 01-31-2010, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM

...so back in the day did shops just relace the whole board or do componet level repairs?

I think it depended on the shop. I asked my friend that same question a few years ago that had a shop in Port Arthur. In his shop, they usually repaired the board instead of replacing. Once they were familiar with the common failures on certain boards, it was cheaper for the customer to replace a cap or transistor instead of buying a whole new board.

He said that was not always the case for the bigger businesses. If they were performing warranty work or had a heavy work load... they'd just change the whole board, and send the old board back to the manufacturer for repairs. The repaired board was sent back out as refurbished.

DaveWM · #64 01-31-2010, 02:50 PM

I checked ALL the caps (unsolder and put on the cap tester for value and leakage, I had one dodgy cap, about the 3rd one I checked, but anyway replaced that one, one I could not test for leakage at 16v (only had 25 as the lowest) so I tested at 25v, the eye would not open all the way so I replaced it any way.

Now I got a picture and raster!

BUT I also have vert size issue, only getting about 1/4 fo the screen to fill in.

So I think I will pull the deflection board next and go thru it.

All of a sudden I am starting to like this set

radiotvnut · #65 01-31-2010, 03:45 PM

Yep, they are more likeable once they start showing progress. The vertical problem is probably caused by bad caps or a faulty driver or output transistor.

DaveWM · #66 01-31-2010, 04:22 PM

copy that radiotvnut. Have to admit I like the way you can pull the whole board, take it to the bench and check it over.

Charile I bet your right about how the techs in the day would know what to check just because they have a high failure rate. Thing is all the voltage readings and scope readings did not help at all. and I think it all came down to one cap. Needless to say I am going to see where that one was on the schematic just to see what it did.

Well actually if I knew more perhaps the scope would have found it

I was just having no luck matching up most of the traces to the ones in the sams.

Findm-Keepm · #67 01-31-2010, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM

Charile I bet your right about how the techs in the day would know what to check just because they have a high failure rate.

Ay-yep. As my TV-repairman Dad says, "It's repair science, not rocket science" - 90% of repairs are Been-There-Replaced-That-And-Fixed-It-Last-Time-So-I'll-Look-There-Again repairs. It's also nice to have a cheat sheet Sams, all doctored up with repair notes from previous repairs. I've got a Sams 1000 (CTC-38) schematic with at least 30 repairs noted - and not all from the same tech, as Dad used to loan out Sams to other shops. Some Tough Dog repair stuff!

Cheers,

sampson159 · #68 01-31-2010, 06:02 PM

congrats on getting raster!vertical might be solder connections at base of yoke and convergence plugs.very common on sylvanias.also those vertical controls get crunchy.post pics of progress.i really love these sylvanias!

DaveWM · #69 01-31-2010, 07:02 PM

We got picture, we got color, we got full screen

gonna need some filter caps, looks like I have some 120 hrz hum bars.

Pics soon...

DaveWM · #70 01-31-2010, 07:03 PM

again a couple caps in the vert driver/output.

Funny they were not "that" bad. guess the circuit is kinda sensitive.

DaveWM · #71 01-31-2010, 07:15 PM

1st pic, not a good subject matter, but a start. I was able to get the best color by adj all the screens fully counter clockwise. Will have to read the manual for the correct setup.

I had a little bit of an issue on the deflection board, the little plastic rails that hold the contact pins had failed on one side. I had to manually insert some pins and then glue the remaing good plastic to the chassis. Hopefully I wont have to get into the deflection board again anytime soon.

Charlie · #72 01-31-2010, 07:23 PM

Hot-digity-dawg!

DaveWM · #73 01-31-2010, 07:32 PM

it looks like pulling the chassis (to get at the filter caps) is not going to be much of a problem. The tuner seems to plug into the chassis with what looks like an octal socket. So I just have to disconnect the speaker, tuner, degausser. I did not check out the convergence assy but I have to assume its also a plug in deal. I have to admit these sets seem to have been built to be serviced.

On the filter caps I will prob just bone saw them off and install radial caps on top. Much easier with the bone saw over my old approach of un twisting the locks on the cans to stuff them.

One dumb design is the use of a little 5*7 speaker for the audio, not tying into the amp and speaker used by the stereo. Seems like a waste not to use that better sound system. Of course for all practical purposes I should be able to just hook into the aux audio of the dvd or converter and just turn the volume control down on the TV and use the stereo amp for sound.

DaveWM · #74 01-31-2010, 07:36 PM

after this one it will be on to the CTC17 and the Zentith consoles.

Big Thanks to Charlie for coming thru on the sylvania SAMS!!

Charlie · #75 01-31-2010, 07:52 PM

No problem dude... glad to have been able to contribute to this project!

Looks like you're well on your way to success!

So, the amp doesn't have a selector for TV, huh? That blows. On my CM and Maggie B&W entertainment centers, the TV audio only goes thru the big amp and speakers. On my color CM Roundie Ent Ctr, you have a choice... either use the little rinky-dink speaker thru the TV's audio circuit, or, turn on the big amp and go thru the big speakers.