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  #61  
Old 04-26-2004, 10:22 PM
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Kamakiri Kamakiri is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mbates14
a bunch of what.
35W4s. Should I toss some in the box?

Now is your golden opportunity to rid me of some overstock
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  #62  
Old 04-26-2004, 10:51 PM
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Charlie Charlie is offline
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Silvertone Verticle

Did you happen to already order the capacitors for the verticle section of your set?
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  #63  
Old 04-27-2004, 06:58 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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yes, ill take one, and no not yet.

I think I mentioned in the PM, that I need to raise some money, and once I do that I am going to replace ALL the caps in the set, like I did my emerson.

justradios.com puts together a kit for you.

(emerson had a shorted filter cap, and boy did it let me know).
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  #64  
Old 08-09-2004, 10:34 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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well after a LOONG time, im finally getting around to my old silvertone.

Anyway, it was burried in a corner, and after the cleanup im pulling it out.

I finally got the anode cap off (I tried to clean under it, but it wouldnt stop arching)

Anyway, there is this brown liquid all over inside the anode cap. no where else outside. it feels and looks like old electrolyte where someone in the past tried to use it and it blew.

I think that it came from a cap (the vertical cap, could be my problems)
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  #65  
Old 08-10-2004, 08:16 PM
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nasadowsk nasadowsk is offline
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That gooey stuff might be the sillicone anode cap deteriorating.

I've found that HV problems are generally due to dirt, and some sets, no matter how muych you clean them, never really stop arcing anyway. But - wipe down the whole HV section, clean the lead, clean the suction cup, and clean the glass around where it plugs into the tube. Clean clean clean. Then clean again. Arcing along the CRT itself is bad mojo, and arcing through the neck is really bad (old zenith color sets from the 70's did this trick, IIRC). Make sure your ground return is good and solid, and contacting the 'dag coating well. It shouldn't be too hard to make it stop.

Hey, how about a few inside shots of the TV set?
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  #66  
Old 08-10-2004, 08:24 PM
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nasadowsk nasadowsk is offline
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Oh yeah - about min RF transmitters - remember that class C amps are much more efficient than calss A or AB or B, thus you don't need really big tubes. To get 100 milliwatts, even a 6C4 is 'overkill' - it can pump out 2.5 watts at 150 Mhz (says RCA's book). Remember to use a power transformer to line isolate anything you build - and oh yeah, be careful in that Silvertone too. I'd get an isolation tranny for it if it's not line isolated...

Hey, you can download a freebie/student version of PSpice, and if you've got time, download the tube models and virtually model your designs before you build a real transmitter....

Hmmm, I can see (but it's overkill designwise):

12AT7 - RF oscillator + 1 buffer stage of amplification.
12AT7 - AF amplifer (buffer, really), then modulator/output section (think cathode provides the RF or AF, grid provides the other signal)
100V + 6V transformer, solid PS.

Back on topic

When you've got a heat realted problem - you'll find more often than not that it's a capacitor, particularly the wax or 'black beauty' types. Find all of those in your vert section, and hit each one in turn with the freeze spray. But, you'll probbably just want to replace ALL of those paper caps, anyway.
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  #67  
Old 08-11-2004, 04:17 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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I see my problem.

the 100uf linerity cap in the vertical section had blown up at one time, well thats my vert problem.

Ill replace that, and it should work.
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