" E " waste find - Page 4 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

radio nut · #46 04-24-2012, 10:11 PM

Thank you ! I will see if Fair Radio has it. If not I will ask here.

Username1 · #47 04-26-2012, 07:15 PM

On that set I believe the "kine bias" is a 3 position slide switch.... nothing to mess up, just put the switch back when yer done...

radio nut · #48 04-26-2012, 07:31 PM

Ok, If it is a crt bias switch would another position possibly make the screen brighter?

I have ran this set about 3 hours now and everything seems fine but I still would like to at least put new electro's in it. A black and white set I have runs fine once hot but the main multi section filter capacitor can has white crap seeping out of it so It will be fixed.

So I am hoping that new filter caps in this color set might improve performance some even though it is functioning well now

Electronic M · #49 04-27-2012, 12:30 PM

Unless there is a 60hz ripple in the audio or picture, or the raster is under scanned for a while after warm up changing the lytics will probably not yield a noticeable effect. Most sets that new tend to have good ltyics, and I hear that vintage Japanese lytics tend to be especially reliable. The paper/mylar bypass caps on the other hand tend to be a weak point on most sets, and that seems to be especially the case for Japanese sets.

radio nut · #50 04-30-2012, 02:33 PM

so far this set plays well but it takes a while for the color to come in correctly.

The picture starts with a greenish yellow tint and after a while clears up. but I so far can't find the tuner tubes...... may have to pull this out of the cabinet to check them.

Most of the other tubes were weak and two showed shorted.

DaveWM · #51 04-30-2012, 03:21 PM

prob just a weak blue gun that takes a bit longer to get up to full power. Generally bias should be at the lowest level to make a good pic, however there maybe a different setup routine for proper greyscale and tracking.

If the pic is looking good why are you wanting to replace tubes? the best tube tester is the set.

holmesuser01 · #52 04-30-2012, 03:26 PM

What DaveWM says.

I've seen tubes that test shorted on one tester test perfectly good on another one. Some tubes test with a short by design.

Glad you're having fun with it. I liked the little Toshiba tube sets.

radio nut · #53 04-30-2012, 03:52 PM

When I finish a project that will probably stay with me I always start with nos tubes.

I don't want to be back in it any time soon!

Sandy G · #54 04-30-2012, 04:42 PM

If any of youse Byrds has a working El-Cheapo 7" Panasonic color set from the 1968-71 time frame, I THINK it was a "CT-771", & wanna get rid of it, I'd LOVE to give it a new home in the Green Hills of Tennessee...Pretty sure it is an all SS design, something unusual for the time. The ones I've seen are in a mustard /beigeish plastic cabinet, & look a LOT like their 8-9" B/W Tooob brothers...

Username1 · #55 05-01-2012, 07:32 PM

That set has all transistor tuner, both UHF and VHF, and if one color gun comes in late its just the tube showing a little age, thats all..... If I remember right that was a wierd tube that had silver between the color dots, at least mine did, or looked like it did. Was definitely not a black stripe. Also its a delta gun setup. And although it looks like its got lots of tubes in there, its a hybrid only a few transistors. Neat thing about that set if you do take it apart is the handle stays with the chassis. And you really should not change the electrolytic caps in there, they will last a long time....

radio nut · #56 05-01-2012, 07:52 PM

Oh, It's a hybrid set...... no wonder I did not see the tuner tubes.

radio nut · #57 05-01-2012, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Unless there is a 60hz ripple in the audio or picture, or the raster is under scanned for a while after warm up changing the lytics will probably not yield a noticeable effect. Most sets that new tend to have good ltyics, and I hear that vintage Japanese lytics tend to be especially reliable. The paper/mylar bypass caps on the other hand tend to be a weak point on most sets, and that seems to be especially the case for Japanese sets.

Well since this set is running well, think I should worry about paper/ mylar caps now or just enjoy and wait til I have issues first? The pic tube tested great on all guns but one could still come up slower than the rest?

radio nut · #58 05-02-2012, 01:57 PM

well I did notice one issue, the bottom half of the screen stays greener than the rest. what should I look for?
I tried to take pictures but my camera "see's " a black bar that goes from the top down that I do not see.
If there is a lot of red or blue on the bottom of what I am watching I can't tell but if the bottom of the screen is dark or black the green tint comes through.

At first I was happy it worked at all, now I have been trying to tweak the tint and color controls on the front of the set to see how good it can be. that is when I really noticed it. I still need a diagram which I am trying to find and I believe it will be a cap/ resistor or peaking coil associated with the green gun. So maybe I will find the problem myself.

Being this will be my first real color set I am trying to stay away from all the other adjustments for color like the green, red, or blue screen til I know what I am doing.

holmesuser01 · #59 05-02-2012, 05:19 PM

Could be the tube needs to be degaussed...

Can you turn the color intensity down so you see a b/w image? Is it still greenish then?

Your set has an automatic degaussing circuit to curb stray magnetism. It might not be working, but is an easy fix.

radio nut · #60 05-02-2012, 05:24 PM

yes it is greenish on b/w images. Doesn't a deguasser kind of make a noise when on?

So its is an easy fix?