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#31
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I now have the service manual for the KX20PS1 if anyone needs it.
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#32
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Bump.
Any possible way the photos could be re-posted? Or does anyone have any that they could post? I'd love to see the whole series in one shot. |
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#33
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Unless Charles has them still, I don't think they can be re-posted otherwise. Wow, what a vintage thread
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My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
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#34
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Here it is.
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Charlie McD |
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#35
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I do still have all of them, in fact I've added a few courtesy of "free" ads on CL, and one KX-1901 NEW IN THE BOX on eBay this year! I don't have them all in one physical location, but I do still have the photo, and I have repaired the bad link in the original post
. Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10 Last edited by kx250rider; 03-30-2010 at 11:53 AM. |
| Audiokarma |
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#36
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Hi all-
I am the original owner of KX-2501a Monitor with the VTX-1100 tuner. I used this set everyday until maybe 4 years ago. I had it sit for that time in a room undisturbed. I have tried to hook it back up recently and I am no longer getting any picture from the monitor. I have tried to patch-n a signal directly, composit; or via the tuner w/ multi pin cable and nothing. I just have a grey screen that will flash momentarily white when turning off power. I also can't get the monitor to change to rgb mode, (the green light doesn't change from power). when hooking up the tuner there are no numbers or data showing. Zip.. zilch.. anyone have any ideas on what might be wrong? Anything I can try? Am I screwed? Seems like such a waste of good equipment that I loved. Also cablevision here locally just went all digital with cable can I still run through tuner or must I use only on channel 3 with the cable box tuning stations now? Thanks for alll your help!!! Hugh |
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#37
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Quote:
Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10 |
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#38
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Charles-
Thanks for your prompt and educated reply! So here's the deal. Unfortunately it appears there is no flicker at all. No life. Again, when getting the click to go on, on the power; I do get the green light, however won't switch to the RGB mode. The yellow light does not come on either. I tried video level back and forth after spraying it with a little tuner degreaser... alas nothing. The only change I got after that was when I tried powering on and off again I started to get a small maybe 3" patch of GR and Red I believe right in the center of the set on a few attempted power ups. Also when I shut down power all the time the screen flashes momentarily white/light blue with scan lines for a split second. Once I tried the rgb button again the center colors disappeared again and the rgb switch still didn't work. So I guess that leads me to processing circuits in the monitor. The VTX by the way, was totally out of the equation. So I live in Long Island, NY... any ideas. Also the thought of having to lug this heavy 140 lb monitor somewhere doesn't exactly thrill me!!! As I am new to this forum, I wonder how I would find someone or if you might know someone. Obviously they would need the repair manual and access to the virtually non-existent parts I would need. Does this become the point of no return on the parts and all? So my sage... what say you and your advice from here... Thanks again for all your help Charles |
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#39
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Oh by the way, am I sure monitor is staying on? The green light stays on... but again no visible image or flickering other than that 3: in center of screen that I described , before.
Hugh |
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#40
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OK, the 3 dots are probably a sign that the set is going into shutdown. The power (green light) will stay on, even in shutdown mode. If you're handy with electronics, you can try a quick "cheat" test to see if it's a faulty HVR block:
The HVR block is a clear shiny plastic case with red inside; about 4" tall, which is mounted on the metal shield around the CRT, (identified by one heavy wire from the high voltage anode cap ontop of the CRT, and one heavy wire to the flyback transformer). There is a third wire from the HVR block; a very thin red wire. You can unsolder that from it's terminal on the back of the HVR block, and tape it out of the way. There is probably a glob of silicone rubber over the connection, which you can carefully pull off to expose the solder lug terminal. Now turn the set on, and see if it still is shutting down. If not, and it appears to be working, the set is sensing too much high voltage and is going into X-ray safety shutdown. Usually, between you and me and the gatepost, that's a false alarm. But for lawsuit protection, I have to say "DONT run the TV with that wire disconnected". If you want to be super-sloppy, you can snip that wire and then reconnect it without messing with the block itself. If it's still shutting down, you need further troubleshooting. NOTE: Although that thin red wire does unplug from the board, it has a safety interlock and the TV will not start with that plug out. Hence you have to unsolder the wire at the HVR block for the "test". Caution for anyone not familiar with TV work: These sets store high voltage in the CRT for hours, and you can get a nasty zap while fiddling around with the HVR block. Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10 Last edited by kx250rider; 10-01-2010 at 12:44 PM. |
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