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  #31  
Old 04-23-2012, 02:24 PM
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Killer is probably short for color killer, which is a circuit that looks for the color synchronizing "burst", and if it is below a level specified by the color killer adjustment will turn off the color demodulating circuits (to prevent color noise on monochrome programing). The color killer circuit is not as useful today as it was then because TV stations not only less frequently broadcast monochrome programs, but they also tend to leave the burst going on the monochrome stuff they do broadcast thus giving the circuit little to do. If you want to kill the burst on monochrome shows then there are ways of removing the burst with readily available hardware (anything that outputs component or S-video is a candidate for being the hardware).

Looks like ya, done real good on that set.
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  #32  
Old 04-23-2012, 02:30 PM
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I am real nervous because I have done black and white sets but not a color set. I do not know what it is I need to know above the black and white "level".

So I will go slow and put in new electro's and check everything out voltage wise and hopefully don't need to adjust anything else.
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  #33  
Old 04-23-2012, 03:05 PM
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What do I use to clean the tubes that will not remove the sears logo. Normally I just clean them with windex.
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  #34  
Old 04-23-2012, 03:15 PM
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Try to dust off the top of the tubes. The Sears logos will come off if the windex hits them.

562. model is Toshiba.
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  #35  
Old 04-23-2012, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio nut View Post
What is the "killer" adjustment for?

Your TV must be a color set, as there is no "killer" control on b&w sets.

It has been some time since I worked with analog color TVs, so I am going by what I remember. Analog CRT color TVs had what was known as a "color killer" circuit, which shut off the color processing chain in the TV when a black-and-white show was being telecast. If the killer is misadjusted or inoperative, color interference will appear in b&w pictures. The killer adjust potentiometer regulates the point at which the color killer starts to work. If the control is set too high, it will firmly cut off the color processing circuits, resulting in a b&w picture even on known color programs; if too low, color interference will appear in known monochrome (black and white) pictures. The correct setting is that at which the color interference just disappears from the picture, which will ordinarily be at or near the center of the control's range.
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Last edited by Jeffhs; 04-23-2012 at 03:50 PM.
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  #36  
Old 04-23-2012, 04:41 PM
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Last question for now ( I hope).
There is a switch on the back labled " kine bias ".
OK I assume that means crt bias. Is it a good idea not to mess with that?
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  #37  
Old 04-23-2012, 04:44 PM
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Leave it alone for now. You will mess up your B/W picture tracking.
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  #38  
Old 04-24-2012, 01:57 PM
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Can someone look up the sam's set/ folder please. it is a sears model 562. I have access to sams but not the master index. Thanks!
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  #39  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:57 PM
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The is television of lower castes and very common. In when I was my young this is television found in rubbish piles outside of the city square. you televison make me feel very lucky and young in the before. I hope that you will hold it gentlly and add love. Please make picture after you restore and add digital switches!!
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  #40  
Old 04-24-2012, 03:34 PM
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I will keep posting progress but what did you mean by adding digital switches ?
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  #41  
Old 04-24-2012, 04:06 PM
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Your set is a model 562.40280002.
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  #42  
Old 04-24-2012, 04:40 PM
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oh, I thought I only needed the first three digits for the model number, thanks!
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  #43  
Old 04-24-2012, 04:43 PM
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Thats OK.

All Sears stuff has a 3 digit number then a period, and then a load of other numbers. First 3 digits tell you who made it.
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  #44  
Old 04-24-2012, 05:00 PM
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I had one like that with the Toshiba name on it. It had a portacolor quality picture. It was instant on like talked about, with very reduced voltage on the tubes. It had a lota good things going for it as far as design goes, definitely a keeper, but I didn't think so when I had it back in the 80's.........
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  #45  
Old 04-24-2012, 10:01 PM
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You need Sams 1171-2. There is a also a production change bulletin for it in 1349-3. Check on here, I bet somebody has a spare copy. I could make a photocopy of mine in a pinch but an original is best. I don't think I want to work so hard as to scan all that!
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