Porta-Color on You-Know-Where... - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

3Guncolor · #31 04-03-2008, 10:06 PM

David, If you need a home for your Porta-color we would be happy to have it visit the headend in La Mirada. You should also tell your boss that unless you have staff in master control 24/7 they should turn all the monitors off when the last person locks up. I have my staff turn off most of our test equipment and monitors when they lockup the headend. If it has a CRT and should be left on 24/7 we always turn the brightness down. I can't stand weak CRTs and the wasted power.
Steve

dtuomi · #32 04-04-2008, 04:09 AM

Its kind of a mixed bag in master control. The official line is that they all should be shut off. But it depends on the operator as to if it really gets gone. Sometimes they don't turn the monitors back on the next day like they're supposed to as well. Things are kind of demoralized where I'm at, due to work stuff I don't want to get into here.

David

*zenithfan1* · #33 04-04-2008, 11:46 AM

Here are the pics, The one where the screen is blue is what I got when I first powered it up. I was not impressed to say the least! After an hour or so of setting the controls and testing tubes the picture got somewhat better, but still needs a lot of work. All of the pots are full of carbon and gunk so no adjustment is easy, I will have to carefully take apart each one and clean it. I'm also sure a few are too bad to save i.e. the vertical linearity control. The other thing I was sad to see was that crappy CRT brightener, I removed it {it wasn't doing much good anyways} there is a great deal of blooming with this set, brightener or not. Tube is very dim

And chassis has quite a bit of mold

But I will fix it up and make it worth what I waste... I mean spent on it.

zenith2134 · #34 04-04-2008, 12:49 PM

Shame about the brightener.... Blue looks nice though

I'm sure it'll be smokin' (in a good way

) once you get done with it.

zenith2134 · #35 04-04-2008, 05:19 PM

I decided to take my '66 apart after I posted the above reply. Can't think of a better way to spend a lazy Friday afternoon.

I never properly set greyscale on my set since it already looked pretty good as-is. I spent some time cleaning out the bias pots and tube sockets and now it looks right.

Enjoy your set, seems like they are kind of fun to work on. (P.S.- mine uses a tube HV rectifier, and I had a flickering problem til I cleaned the cap and socket behind a little metal door-- might wanna try that out if yours still has one...)

bgadow · #36 04-07-2008, 10:27 PM

I think there are a few of us on here that have spare crts for these; I know I have a pair hiding in the attic.

*zenithfan1* · #37 04-08-2008, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgadow

I think there are a few of us on here that have spare crts for these; I know I have a pair hiding in the attic.

Cool, I'm probably going to be working on this set in the next week. I will update on the condition of that tube after I get the chassis going a little better. That would be great if you had a replacement.

bgadow · #38 04-08-2008, 10:41 PM

I know they changed up that tube several times through the years; my guess is your version uses a more common one, but I could be wrong.

*zenithfan1* · #39 04-10-2008, 11:40 AM

Well, I put the same caps in that I put in the other one. These were just as bad as the others but it was easily overlooked due to the amount of mold and dirt on the chassis. I replaced the .1@100VDC, .039@600VDC and I subbed the .047 with a .05@400VDC {all I had} and the set has improved greatly. This one don't need a HOT either, it just looked that way 'cause of those caps. The dim pic and blooming was also from these caps, some idiot put in the brightener to try and fix it without really looking the set over. When I powered it up it worked for a minute then the raster disappeared, the 2.5 amp slo blo went, I subbed it with one of my homemade fuse subs {wire soldered to a low amp fuse}. After I put that in the set powered up and worked fine for over three hours.I would recommend that anyone with a Porta-Potty replace these caps if they haven't already. I still have a lot to do to this one, but at least it's watchable now. It just got way too late to keep working on it. I took some extra pics of the orange drop by the HOT {.1@1000VDC}. When I did the other P'color, I put it right down to the PCB, it is very close to the HOT but seems to be ok. This idea worked better. I used the coating from some wire that was laying around, made it safe and keeps it from moving too much. This way that cap is about 1/4 in. from the tube rather than about .030 of an in. like the other P'color. The CRT is bright and focused now but has some slight retrace lines, I might want to get a spare anyways. It uses an 11WP22 EIA code 188-23. Hey Bryan, if you read this could you please check and see what tube you have, I'll buy it from you if it's the right one. Even if I don't need it now, it's always nice to have a spare. Oh, and if anyone has the channel knobs that would be awesome.