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#16
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That is a good idea. Last night I was tracing circuitry and found a disconnect between a cap and the flyback, still working. The crack in the hub/wheel around the transformer occurred when I tried to lengthen the HV wire, pulled too hard stripping insulation.
The on/off switch is failed now, click but no power flow. *Now seems to be okay* *I still cannot get the flow of voltage between horizontal output to return through rectifier. How can I store the crt? Last edited by BandDirector; 06-16-2020 at 10:37 AM. |
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#17
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Tonight I soldered in a better wire for the HV rec, the vac tube had a low green glow. The crt produced a wider blurred line than just a thin line, probably 2" horizontal size, dim. The shape didn't quite make to the right edge of the screen.
The analog input is supplied by a vcr from 1987, when you hit tv/vcr to take if off the tape, the screen goes dark. So, the tuner apears to be reacting to an input signal. I guess these signs are as good as any to start recapping. Tomorrow I will test audio output, then make a starting point to replace caps and make an short order sheet. It is sure trying to work. |
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#18
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No sound output...moving on.
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#19
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Today I have replaced 8 caps, and 3 tubes- horiz output, sound, damper.
Before doing this today, the set stopped powering on as of last week. When I plug in the tv I have live voltage through to the switch on the front of the chassis, turn past the click- nothing. Still 118/120 v and yet no tubes warming up, nothing. I desoldered the switch, it is a combo on/off/volume and an outer contrast knob. Before this I checked current to the switch, it was just waiting, turn the switch and nothing. I took it to my supplier and wrote the part number for him to research next week. ?? Last edited by BandDirector; 06-26-2020 at 11:31 PM. |
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#20
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You could solder a jumper wire across the power switch and continue on with your troubleshooting/recapping? You could then turn it off/on with an external switch on a outlet strip, or simply unplug it from the AC line.
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| Audiokarma |
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#21
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Brilliant. Did it this morning. Worked perfectly
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#22
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Try taking the power switch section of the switch off the combo switch and shoot some WD-40 into the power switch and work the power switch lever back and forth a few times and then flush the switch out with contact cleaner and measure the switch with a continuity tester on your digital multimeter in the "on" and "off" position, in the on position it should beep at you, in the off position it should measure open.
More than likely your power switch's contacts had arced and welded themselves in the off position, spraying the WD-40 into the switch and working it back and forth will work the contacts free, I've done that before on a 1936 Philco Model 116B radio I'm working on restoring which had the same issue, except in my case I couldn't get the radio to turn off with the power switch rather than like yours where you couldn't get it to turn on. Hope this helps. |
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#23
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Quote:
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#24
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Quote:
Switches arc just during general operation (look at a snap switch on an old fan when powering the fan on, and you'll see an electrical arc from the switch going between the different speed settings). |
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