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#16
11-19-2019, 07:31 PM
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Just a small word of advice-Caps are usually cheap, you may wanna order 2 or 3 for each place you are gonna replace 'em... They CAN be bad from the factory, I've heard, you may be kinda like me, a "Fat-Fingered Freddie" & end up bollixing up a few.. And, even if you're lucky enuf to have an electronics parts wholeseller close by, guess which ones they'll be "Outta Stock" on... Murphy's Law of Ultimate Contrariness-the most rigid, & Immutable law there is.. Just sayin'...I'm kinda excited over this Bad Boi gettin' a new lease on Life, too...(Grin)
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Benevolent Despot 
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#17
11-19-2019, 08:39 PM
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These were a TV every 8 year old wanted in thier room. We could pick them up, was the attraction. Do you need a sams on this little wonder? Its good to know where caps go incase you're not the first one in.
I had the folder out for S+Gs but ended up not need it to button up Tim's set. PM me with your email address and Ill scan it.
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"When resistors increase in value, they're worthless" -Dave G
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#18
11-19-2019, 08:41 PM
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OK on the temporary extensions, but did you totally disconnect the old caps?
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#19
11-19-2019, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Make sure to disconnect the old caps.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#20
11-19-2019, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
 There is actually an electronics store in my area, I buy my soldering gear from them as well as the occasional IC socket or switch or whatever I might need at the time when I don't want to wait a week for shipping. The only problem...their capacitor selection is pretty subpar, lots of Chinesium stuff I wouldn't trust to last very long. Such is life. Quote:
 Quote:
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When you lower your standards, you set a new standard! ISO: Mitsubishi 6CT-338, Sony Chromatron 19C70/100, Yaou "Colornetron" GTC-9, etc...
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#21
11-25-2019, 03:48 PM
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I've been doing some more work on this set, so here's the weekly update:
A huge thank you to user DavGoodlin who graciously e-mailed me a scan of the Sams folder, troubleshooting will be a million times easier now!  I pulled the vertical tube as I needed to take some resistance measurements from the socket, so I threw it on the tester for fun. Both sections test good. The resistance measurements yielded some strange results - pin 1 measured around 3.8K, when I was supposed to be reading 3.3K. Perusing the schematic revealed it led to a 3.3K resistor which then goes to ground, so I pulled that resistor and changed it. I now get the specified 3.3K resistance reading. I don't think it was a very crucial resistor in the circuit, but I had the replacement part on hand and decided I might as well change it while I'm working on the chassis. Unfortunately, I seem to have somehow made things worse - after replacing that resistor, I can no longer get the vertical hold to lock AT ALL, and the horizontal hold control is extremely sensitive to the point where I can barely even get the picture to come through without turning the knob extremely slowly and meticulously. A bad solder joint has also apparently developed somewhere, as on the initial powerup, I no longer had a picture, but it came back after a hard KNOCK to the side of the high voltage cage. I will likely end up reflowing a good bit of the solder joints on the PCB just to make sure it's reliable in the future. Pin 2 also reads high - 2.48 meg, when the Sams calls for 1.9. That pin leads to a "junction" of resistors and things such as the height control, so I will have to do some further investigating. I think Electronic M correctly predicted I'd be chasing down some weird gremlins. At this point, though, I'm pretty sure my problem is just a metric ton of drifted carbon resistors, a product of the TV sitting outside for so long and soaking in the moisture. More updates as I continue to work on the set.
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When you lower your standards, you set a new standard! ISO: Mitsubishi 6CT-338, Sony Chromatron 19C70/100, Yaou "Colornetron" GTC-9, etc...
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#22
11-25-2019, 05:40 PM
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Paralleling AKA jumping caps is an acceptable trouble shooting technique.
Just remember to unhook the old one if you fix it. Stuff from the 50's back I would not do it as a rule. Hoz hold controls were always bad on some RCA's. We just changed them since we could have them in a day. It may be a "tin whiskers" problem. Just clean the crap out of it. The control could be causing the no raster also. Most sets with PCB's have the boards soldered to the steel chassis. They complete grounds & often broke loose. Also if the set is dropped the PCB will crack at those points. 73 Zeno  LFOD !
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