1986 Sears LXI 20" with Nudes

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

The EIAJ connector has a completely different pinout/signal set on that TV than the one on your Umatic does. The Umatic has 4 signal lines in it: (composite)Video in (Composite) Video out, Audio in, Audio out....That Monitor has a different 4 lines: Red video, Blue video, Green video, Sync...If you were to plug your umatic into that set it would not work.

My U-Matic has the identical EIAJ connector with "monitor" stamped above it.

[Titan1a]

I have a Sears RGB monitor with EIAJ connector. Monitor is Philips made.

[user181]

Here's a link to the Photofact:

https://www.samswebsite.com/en/photo...ndex/id/161680

It's $22.00 for a PDF download, or a couple bucks more if you want to buy a hard copy. Not cheap-cheap, but it's hardly an arm-and-a-leg, either. Especially if you don't get any other leads on it.

I've bought a couple Photofacts from them over the years and can vouch that it's legitimate and works as advertised. They were responsive to me when I had an issue with readability in one place, and they ended up rescanning the whole thing at much better resolution for me.

[Jon A.]

I'm not familiar with the electron theory but negative on the electrolytic capacitors goes to ground; hooked up the other way they go poof.

Chances are you'll eventually tear up something, or at least do a sloppy job and want to re-do it eventually, I did quite a bit in the early stages of the learning process. By the way I always use 105 degree Nichicon capacitors. Avoid oddly-branded Chinese caps at all cost.

[CRTs4life]

I'm not tearing anything up if I can at all help it.
The reference to electron theory vs conventional theory is about the direction electrons flow. + to - or - to +. Convincing arguements both ways.
Anyway,...not that relevant I guess.
I'm familiar with Nichicon, Rubycon, etc. I am a career master auto tech and I never use cheap parts if there is any way at all possible not to.
I bought several of the pre-made cap kits for my old videogame consoles and recently I discovered a depot place in Fla. that sells caps (not cheap ones) in bulk. So I am good to go in that dept. after buying a huge assortment priced right.

P.S.- I will post pix of the Sega running when I get this figured out.

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by CRTs4life

I'm familiar with Nichicon, Rubycon, etc. I am a career master auto tech and I never use cheap parts if there is any way at all possible not to.

Ah, an excellent head start there. I hadn't done a whole lot with a soldering iron before starting in TVs. I too avoid any cheap parts like the plague.

[Count Zero]

Originally Posted by CRTs4life

I'm not tearing anything up if I can at all help it.
The reference to electron theory vs conventional theory is about the direction electrons flow. + to - or - to +. Convincing arguements both ways.
Anyway,...not that relevant I guess.
I'm familiar with Nichicon, Rubycon, etc. I am a career master auto tech and I never use cheap parts if there is any way at all possible not to.
I bought several of the pre-made cap kits for my old videogame consoles and recently I discovered a depot place in Fla. that sells caps (not cheap ones) in bulk. So I am good to go in that dept. after buying a huge assortment priced right.

P.S.- I will post pix of the Sega running when I get this figured out.

Hi, did you ever get this EIAJ connector sorted out? I have a Sears LXI model 564-40843652 that I’m interested in utilizing that port for analog video.

[Count Zero]

Originally Posted by CRTs4life

P.S.- I will post pix of the Sega running when I get this figured out.

Did you ever try this out?

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by Count Zero

Did you ever try this out?

I think you probably missed it, but he did actually reply to this above:

The LXI tv is actually advertised as a tv&monitor. See pic.
And,.... the input is digital rgb, so Sega, etc. unfortunately are not compatible.

So I guess that means it's a no-go. Digital RGB is CGA or EGA (in 15kHz modes) essentially. Can't do NTSC/PAL through that connector.

[zeno]

Originally Posted by Jon A.

I'm not familiar with the electron theory but negative on the electrolytic capacitors goes to ground; hooked up the other way they go poof.

Chances are you'll eventually tear up something, or at least do a sloppy job and want to re-do it eventually, I did quite a bit in the early stages of the learning process. By the way I always use 105 degree Nichicon capacitors. Avoid oddly-branded Chinese caps at all cost.

Hi Jon
In this case the caps are for "coupling". They pass the "AC" part of the
signal & block DC. Caps to ground are usually for "decoupling".
They pass varying signals to ground to keep B+ lines as clean as needed.
They "save" voltage & let it go when needed as the B+ sinks.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by zeno

Hi Jon
In this case the caps are for "coupling". They pass the "AC" part of the
signal & block DC. Caps to ground are usually for "decoupling".
They pass varying signals to ground to keep B+ lines as clean as needed.
They "save" voltage & let it go when needed as the B+ sinks.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Ah yes, that first part occurred to me not long after making that post, I thought it an odd place to use an electrolytic. The "negative towards the TV" part threw me at first.

I can hardly wait to get restarted on my own set's repairs, the weird waveform on the convergence board has me stumped at the moment.

[Count Zero]

Hi, I got the pinout from here: https://www.minuszerodegrees.net/man...%20Pinouts.jpg someone posted it earlier on in this thread.

Was just curious if anyone has been successful in using this port for RGB input and if so how the cable connection process works.

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by Count Zero

Hi, I got the pinout from here: https://www.minuszerodegrees.net/man...%20Pinouts.jpg someone posted it earlier on in this thread.

Was just curious if anyone has been successful in using this port for RGB input and if so how the cable connection process works.

I do use one with my Sony CPD-9000. It works very, very well. They made cables that go from EIAJ (which is what is on the LXI) to DE9 (which is the same as CGA/EGA).

Of course, it would depend on what your source was. Now that you have the pinout, you just make the outputs go to your inputs.

[CRTs4life]

Originally Posted by vol.2

I do use one with my Sony CPD-9000. It works very, very well. They made cables that go from EIAJ (which is what is on the LXI) to DE9 (which is the same as CGA/EGA).

Of course, it would depend on what your source was. Now that you have the pinout, you just make the outputs go to your inputs.

Just curious. What kind of setup (rig) do you have for your monitor?
Classic IBM compatible DOS? Amiga?

[vol.2]

Originally Posted by CRTs4life

Just curious. What kind of setup (rig) do you have for your monitor?
Classic IBM compatible DOS? Amiga?

I have that particular monitor being fed by a Chromecast through an HDMI->VGA adapter, and the to an Extron VPS700 to get 480i output (resized to fit properly and comb filtered) so that I can watch old 4:3 TV shows in the kitchen.

No joke.

I don't actually keep much in the way of old computers going tbh. I own a couple old 486 things, but I really never use them. As far as I'm concerned, the only important part is that I can use the correct monitors and the correct keyboards. The rest is just an inconvenience.

I grew up with a XT, playing old Sierra games on a 9" amber monitor through a Hercules card. Then a 386SX and a VGA monitor. both were huge steps up from the last, but they were still so unbelievably slow.

I was so happy to get rid of those old things and move onto something that was more capable that I don't really get what people are so happy about messing with them anymore. Yes, I had plenty of fun with them, but I already did that. I don't see an imperative reason to dial the clock back to inconvenience myself with that stuff again when I have great new stuff I can use with emulation.