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  #16  
Old 09-16-2015, 12:37 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Bob, I have brought up this before but do not recall a definite answer.

Do you know if Scotty would band rectangle rebuilds that came in as bonded face?

I presume he would release the vacuum, put in oven to get hot, remove the bonded face, do the rebuild and add a band leaving the face lens off. But that is just what I think.

I don't know if he ever sold rebuilds that came in with bonded faces and then he would reattach with a bonding agent after rebuilt. Or maybe just sell back with no lens attached. I am talking about rectangles not roundies
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2015, 12:41 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
One nice thing about those Motorolas is that you can remove a cataract without removing the CRT.
I never thought of that plus, but then, I never had to remove a cataract from a 23EGP22. They usually were bad!
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2015, 12:44 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by ohohyodafarted View Post
The correct answer is DO NOT REMOVE THE TENSION BAND WHILE UNDER VACUUM

I watched Scotty at Hawkeye do some rectangular tubes for bowling alley monitors. The band was removed only after the crt was at atmospheric pressure. After the tube was rebuilt and under vacuum, the final step was to replace the tension band using steel strapping like is used in strapping wooden crates. A special tool is used to apply the tension on the steel strapping and then another tool is used to place a clinch fastener to hold the bands tight. All done while tube is under vacuum. When I saw Scotty fasten the new band and tension it, I was afraid it would implode, but actually the tube is more likely to implode with the band removed.

I would use a high speed carborundum cut off wheel to saw the ears and remove them.

Bob
They're available at Harbor Freight. The $9.95 4.5" angle grinder is good enough for the application.
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2015, 03:40 PM
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I got it mounted late last night. I hack sawed off the tabs since I did not want to risk magnetizing it with a power tool....My back wishes I'd went with the power tool.

Purity is not quite right (though at least reasonably close)so I may remove the admiral's shield as two shields may be messing with purity.
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  #20  
Old 09-16-2015, 04:41 PM
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Out of curiosity, what is printed on the red band clinch? I know I have seen them but can't recall, and your pic is out of focus.

And I agree - never cut a tension band.
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  #21  
Old 09-16-2015, 04:51 PM
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"Signode" ??? just a WAG.

jr
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  #22  
Old 09-16-2015, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
"Signode" ??? just a WAG.

jr
Yes, correct.
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  #23  
Old 09-16-2015, 06:51 PM
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We used to cut off ears all the time - mostly to fit 23V/25V tubes to older sets. Dad saved every CRT mount, every caster, every cabinet bracket, every foot and every trap door from sets he junked. His a$$ got saved quite a few times that way. I still have his box of treasures if anyone every needs any of the above. No complete sets, save for the CRT mounts - and the doors are mostly for mid-80s stuff.
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  #24  
Old 09-17-2015, 07:55 AM
kf4rca kf4rca is offline
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Done It Successfully

Putting a 510NVB22 into a Barco CTVM 3/51 monitor. The ears were backward. Cut the band with tinsnips. To re-attach the band, I used a stainless steel hose clamp riveted to the band. The location of the hose clamp worm mechanism needs to be pre-determined as you may have mounting issues with the bezel and/or cabinet. I used two rivets on each side to fasten the hose clamp to the band. Also had to grind the ears down.
There really is no concern for implosion because if you've ever examined a crt disassembled, the glass is real thick at this location. In fact, the entire front glass is more like a lens than a piece of glass.
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  #25  
Old 09-17-2015, 09:42 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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hmmm well I have been near one when it imploded, and sure I would not risk cutting a tension band. Note I have seem large hose clamp like bands that are really just mounting the jug, not for implosion protection. Tension bands are make from high tensile strength steel. I don't know what a hose clamp is made from, but I presume its not the same stuff.
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  #26  
Old 09-17-2015, 10:08 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
hmmm well I have been near one when it imploded, and sure I would not risk cutting a tension band. Note I have seem large hose clamp like bands that are really just mounting the jug, not for implosion protection. Tension bands are make from high tensile strength steel. I don't know what a hose clamp is made from, but I presume its not the same stuff.
All the hose clamps I worked with were a good grade of stainless steel.
It seems like a lot of risky work, for a small reward.
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  #27  
Old 09-17-2015, 10:43 AM
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...

Last edited by andy; 11-20-2021 at 03:25 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-17-2015, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
There's no way you could get enough tension with a hose clamp to provide implosion protection. Unless it's going into something with a separate safety glass, I wouldn't risk it.

I've heard of CRTs that spontaneously imploded after the tension band was removed, but I don't know if it was true, or if there were other issues such as scratching the CRT with a hack saw while cutting the band. One of these days, I'll have to try it under controlled conditions on a dud.
It's a matter of statistics... You might do *one* with no implosion, but that really proves nothing... do 100 or so and it is fairly likely that you will experience an implosion when the band is cut off.

jr
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  #29  
Old 09-18-2015, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
"Signode" ??? just a WAG.

jr

Signode is a large manufacturer of strapping equipment . They produce strapping machines for automated factory process using both steel and plastic strapping material .
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  #30  
Old 09-18-2015, 09:20 PM
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Well I have decent purity and far better gray scale than before, but the new CRT is revealing that the chassis had some issues I'd in correctly blamed on the previous CRT.....The worst of which is that the monochrome video chain is not producing enough amplitude...To get bright enough white and reasonable contrast, the blacks need to be more lit than they should....The 6BN11 (video/sound-synch...synch was weak too) was half dead-half weak all I had in my stocks was a marginally good replacement and that helped a bit, but is likely not strong enough. HV is weaker than it should be (I remember it being fine before) and changing the reg settings to get the most out of it screws up the focus. There are some jali bars too that I'll have to address.

I'm going to set this aside for a few days and then regroup.
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