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  #16  
Old 08-06-2015, 06:24 AM
jstout66 jstout66 is offline
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Nah... I'm pretty retentive, so no vents are blocked, plus the doors are open when I have the set on. I'll post a pix in the cabinet after I get the tube, and get everything put back. I'm hoping it will be a simple fix with the tube change tho. Chassis is not the most service friendly......
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2015, 10:21 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstout66 View Post
Nah... I'm pretty retentive, so no vents are blocked, plus the doors are open when I have the set on. I'll post a pix in the cabinet after I get the tube, and get everything put back. I'm hoping it will be a simple fix with the tube change tho. Chassis is not the most service friendly......
Back in the old days of TV repair, a tube would cure the problem for a short time, but it was an indication of things to come. We all did it! The customer would call back saying that the set was doing the same thing.
The Japanese capacitors still had paper dielectric, even that recently. The resistors were rather heat sensitive as well.
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  #18  
Old 08-06-2015, 11:44 AM
jstout66 jstout66 is offline
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Ya... am hoping on this one, tube only. I didn't want to overlook the obvious, before delving too deep. I see too many times where people decide they MUST re-cap everything, and end up with more problems than they started with.
This one gets minimal use, so will post screen shots and let everyone know if that was the cure. We hated those Japanese sets in the late 70's to mid 80's when they were brought in. especially if they were in a kitchen and ran 24/7.
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  #19  
Old 08-08-2015, 09:38 PM
jstout66 jstout66 is offline
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Got the tube today and that was the cure. Had to touch up the size and linearity a bit.
I've run it for 12 hours today and rock solid.
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