![]() |
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
|
The later Magnavox designed roundie chassis' as well as the earlier rectangular ones will eat flybacks. The most common tell tale sign of the Magnavox design is the pull in-out focus slug with the plastic set screw eccentric for locking it in place.
|
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
|
I had forgotten about those series-string Maggie Color chassis. Ugh.
I stocked 22KM6's for many years. Always had at least 2 on hand.
__________________
Bruce |
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
|
I've already replaced all the lytic type caps first, still had almost no picture. The mylar caps failed, I tested them on a heatkit capacitor analyser. I couln't believe it, but sure enough about 30% of the ones i was pulling were bad, partial leakage. I remember they were brown and as I replaced them one by one the set came to life. So I just replaced all the film caps that were brown as so many were checking weird. Bad batch I would guess.
I'll try the agc again, but I remember clearly it didnt't have much effect on the color. Channel to channel the color needs contant tweaking, one channel faces are green, another could be purple and not have enough range on the tint cont. It's hooked up to cable. The tv has ALL NEW tubes in it. Years ago I bought a truckload (literally) of brand new tubes for fifty bucks, I even tested them on my tube tester before they went in, even have a spare horiz output tube. Is it possible it's a resistor as so many were completly open or like twice their value. Also the tv had no color when I first got it working, I found out it had this really big coil under the chassis. It had a giant spilt down it's form and was open. i carefullt found out the wire needed to be resoldered to it's terminal. Is that really long coil some kind of early attempt at making a delay line, or a filter or trap. It's like the size of a cigar and held together by luck (really deteroraited by age). I picked a real winner for my first tube type tv to collect and restore This tv has the pull focus type setting, so i guess it really is made by magnavox. It also has a shapness control, but it's on the back, why would they do that. It's also got a chormotone switch which is set to off (chormatone makes the picture look like sepia tone, why would they think that looked good?) Also the line cord gets really hot, but horiz cathode current is on spec. I bought the sams for it. At the time my crosshatch gen was giving me problems, the bend was related to how high I adjusted the output. I also noticed the set tint changes as the tv warms up. In fact it takes a good 5-8 minutes for the tv to have a decent picture. What's normal for these tvs, I grew up in the 90's so this is kind of new to me. But I know tube amps, they are most of my business. But tube tv is crazy. Just one more question, how good should the picture be if the tv was new, picture content has changed and I don't think they built these tvs for such light to dark shifts and bright graphics. Can I post the sams on here? Keith |
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
|
This could be a long shot, but a year ago I pulled a '72 Sylvania hybrid out of a ditch that appeared to have lived outside for a few decades and after replacing a ton of parts it lived, but I could not get good convergence. I finally replaced the convergence diodes and I was able to achieve MUCH better convergence.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
![]() |
|
|