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#16
02-25-2014, 05:52 PM
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#17
02-25-2014, 05:54 PM
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Dave,
Yes, what I was envisioning is not on the main/chassis PCB, but up under the choke coil. Under the area where the power cord and ANT. terminals are located. I still don't have the set in my possession, but should take detailed pictures when I do.
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#18
02-25-2014, 06:01 PM
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I would def look to replace that one, be sure to use at least a 1kv (not the 630's that are commonly sold). I have had some of those cap fail, but not all of them. Its not to hard to replace so with out some other diagnostic tools its a good guess. You cant really test them as most CAP testers max out at 450-500vdc leak voltage. there is also a verticle .047 cap on the back of the pcb, also a white ceramic tube cap. I think its just a B+ RF filter cap and as such unlikely to be killing HV (unless the B+ is low to to leakage from it, but I doubt it), but it prob would not hurt to replace it as well since its just a paper cap inside.
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#19
02-27-2014, 11:53 AM
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I have a general question about the flyback. I'm reading the SAMS Photofacts for my set (folder 1223), it lists what appear to be a couple different variations for the part that was used for the flyback. One item listed is "core half." What is the core half? I've heard it referred to as a separate "donut" that comes off, but I'm not picturing what part this would be. Can anyone explain this?
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#20
02-27-2014, 08:47 PM
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I believe that the actual coil could be removed (with some work) from the frame. Probably have to undo all the leads and I believe there is a metal clip that holds the framework together. I had some pieces of the frame (maybe wrong terminology) for a GE flyback, NOS. Not real sure why they'd bother to sell it that way. I know GE flybacks were famous for being noisy (high pitched squeal) and I'm thinking that type of construction would be the reason why. Best to replace the whole thing. If you can get the improved Thordarson type, do it.
__________________
Bryan
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#21
02-28-2014, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
& ferrite core halves with spacers & U shaped mounting. If you use the OEM you should get a new core. Its common to crack & you need the spacers or it will sing. Also the metal is cheap & it can break tightening the nuts. GE is the only one I remember doing it this way & have no idea why. But there tint control was backwards from everyone else for years. On my GE oven the temp up & down are opposite from convention. Go figure.......... 73 Zeno 
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