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#16
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Well, I ordered the choke. Now I have to wait 5 to 6 weeks for Edcor to build it and ship it, haha.
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#17
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Choke has finally been marked as shipped! Can't wait to get it in the TV when it shows up on Wednesday.
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#18
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Sweet, it seems to have helped out a lot with powering the TV. Unfortunately, the picture is still kind of flickery, but doing this along with replacing the selenium rectifier with silicon diodes has really helped the picture fill the tube. I don't have to turn up the vertical size nearly as high now, and I also don't have to have the width sleeve pulled out so far. I just wish I could figure out what's causing the occasional flickering, now.
EDIT: Of course, it might just be the way I'm piping in the composite video that's causing the flickering, too. I'll have to mess around with the tuner and IF stage some more to see if it's worth using the TV just tuned to channel 3. Last edited by jmetal88; 07-25-2012 at 06:07 PM. |
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#19
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Alright, I think I've figured it out. If I listen closely to the chassis while the TV is powered on, I can hear little 'clicks' and it makes me think the flyback might be occasionally arcing internally. If so, I think that could be the cause of the flickering I'm seeing now.
EDIT: On second thought, I might just be running too many things off the same power outlet. The flickering went away when I shut down my laptop, haha. Last edited by jmetal88; 07-25-2012 at 08:34 PM. |
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#20
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Eh, I'm still hearing the crackling noises coming from the chassis, but I can't pinpoint where they're coming from. Seems like it's kind of all over. Maybe it's the picture tube? Should I be worried about it, or is this just something vintage TVs do?
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| Audiokarma |
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#21
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Well, now it seems like the flyback is discharging to the HV cage. I think I'm gonna have to try to coat it more thoroughly in that liquid tape stuff before I use the TV any more.
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#22
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Make sure the humidity in your work space is under control. May not be as much a problem in OK, but it sure is here.
One thing I used to do in the damp basement where I worked on my stuff was to turn of all the lights and look for sparks or corona tracking, usually purple. Then try this, use the canned "duster" and shoot any suspected arcing areas. I just got GC 10-9002A Red insulating varnish, that I used 30+ years ago to re-coat a flyback. Have not done it lately |
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#23
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I can't actually see any arcing at the moment, I just hear occasional clicks/zaps. My last coating of liquid tape has stopped the major discharge to the cage, but I'll probably have to re-coat it some more in the future.
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#24
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It seems like the longer I let it run, the more arcing I hear. I think I'm just gonna have to put the set away for a while until I have time to actually unsolder the flyback and try insulating it more thoroughly when it's off the chassis. Really, I need to set up some kind of work bench for this or something. Maybe I will when I move into my new apartment on the 16th. I don't know if I'll do anything before then.
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