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#16
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It looked fine to me. Just checked when cleaning the tv.
I'm running it now to warm it up since cleaning it. I did notice a fuses solder joint was rusted so I reflowed it. I didn't have solder with me though so I reflowed what was there. Someone stole my role of solder. |
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#17
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you know I vacuum out all the dust in my old transistor sets like that one each year before the summer humidity, especially around the flyback. Use vacuum & paint brush to brush off the dust. pc board too, tube, and tube socket and the electronics on the tube socket too. It looks very clean around r-514, looks like the flyback has not been touched in my opinion. I bet it will run for years, keep it dust free, and keep the brightness below half to keep the tube from over driving and make it last longer. Nice set. I have a few mid 80's Sharp sets they are really good sets.
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" |
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#18
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Hope it lasts. :P
This is as good as I could clean it, using a paint brush. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0366.jpg Not perfect but better than before.. EDIT: The picture still flickers in the dark regions.. Argh! I can't think of what it could be Last edited by lnx64; 04-26-2012 at 07:25 PM. |
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#19
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Cold solder joints have always plagued PCBs. Touching up the soldering might help if that is the issue.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#20
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I really think it is a cold solder joint.. Problem is, I can't find which one, and I don't have the patience to do every single one.
Anyone in Florida willing to help me out? The crackling does appear to be gone though.. |
| Audiokarma |
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#21
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Ok, so since cleaning, the brightness itself isn't going crazy anymore, and the crackling sound has gotten very quiet now (i can still faintly hear it but not as bad).
But, the picture still occasionally has a bright flash in certain horizontal parts of the picture. It's different every time. This only occurs when it warms up though, not when cold. Earlier I tried tapping parts of the board with a stick but it seemed to have no affect in showing any parts with cold solder joints. I managed to capture the flicker on video via my iPhone and this is how fast it flashes and it does this as often as every 8 seconds. Each picture is a frame in the video, so at 30fps, it was only 2 frames it showed up. First frame is before the flash even appears. ![]() ![]() ![]() EDIT: I take that back. It's crackling in the back again. It's just so hard to hear it though, has to be a quiet room, but it does do it, and now the flickering is once every couple seconds.. Here's a recording of the crackling. http://www.mediafire.com/?yhz99rx9qr7pwqg It seems to correspond to the flashing on the TV. The louder the crackle, the more flashing. Last edited by lnx64; 04-27-2012 at 01:07 AM. |
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#22
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I didn't have solder with me though so I reflowed what was there. Someone stole my role of solder.[/QUOTE]
For what that stuff costs today, you have to keep it in a safe.
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#23
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Especially my non-lead free solder. I don't like lead free solder..
I made a video btw showing the flashing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VU97yfXScE Hopefully this can be easily solved, but if not, what kind of flyback can I install in it? I can't find any OEM flybacks. |
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#24
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Anyone in Florida willing to help me out? I just don't have time to do this.
I'll buy you lunch, a good lunch.. Also, is it possible, that the flybacks anode wire, running across the back of the CRT resting on the aquadag coating, like it is in the pics, be causing this whole problem? Should it be standed off? If so, where can I get those spacer things I see on newer CRT's. Last edited by lnx64; 04-29-2012 at 01:02 AM. |
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#25
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Can you tell where the arcing is coming from? Flyback?Maybe the anode cap perhaps?Could even be bad solder joints arcing underneath around the flyback. Could even be in between the flyback and the pcb.
Can you pull the board and get better pics of the flyback area?
__________________
"IPC 610 Class E & J STD-001 Certified" |
| Audiokarma |
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#26
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Thats the problem, I can't tell where the arcing is coming from. I'll try to get better pics when I have it opened next.
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#27
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OK here you go. I also installed some spacers on the anode wire since I was concerned about how it was just riding along the aquadag.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...on/TV%20Board/ I also accidentally broke off a corner of the board (and I feel like CRAP about that, I hadn't noticed when I was holding the board the corner fell into a slot on the back cover), but it appears to still be working fine despite that broken corner. EDIT: Oh, and it's flyback transformer is a FCM-2015AL.. I see only one on eBay that claims "Genuine" but I don't have any way to tell if it IS genuine. EDIT: With standoffs, still doing it when warmed up.. I'm going to get a rubber tube and try to "listen" for where this crackle is, cause it is related to the flashing.. The crackling comes when the flashing does. Last edited by lnx64; 04-29-2012 at 01:36 PM. |
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#28
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I have a portable Samsung from around this era, and I notice the flyback transformer is a bit loud, like it's about to go Kaboom! I had a quasar from the early 80s go up like fireworks back in the early 90s. We were watching it, all of a sudden we heard a loud bang (Like lighting a bottle rocket fire cracker off), picture went blank and we smelled this odd odor..
Last edited by tvcollector; 04-29-2012 at 02:01 PM. |
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#29
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Well here's the weird thing, that crackling I'm hearing, it is not coming from within the flyback. I used my bamboo tipped stethoscope, and I can hear the ticking from the high voltage, but not that random crackling chatter. So it's coming from somewhere else..
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#30
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I have found the location of the crackling!
I was only probing one part of the flyback, but not other parts, then I found it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...blecrackle.jpg Sooooooo, flyback? |
| Audiokarma |
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